jsilvius' Patrol Trooper Build

[jsilvius]

I've wanted to do this build since I saw it in Solo. I've been busy trying to finish a Shadow Scout for the past year. I've been on here a lot as you all have much better write ups about scout builds compared to SpecOps. I was recently offered a Resin cast PT helmet and that spiked my interest in this build again, so I jumped on the few items that @BikerScout007 had that I could fit in. So now that I have a helmet, boots, and gloves, it was time to start grabbing more stuff to make this happen. I bought @MrPoopie's files so I can start printing the armor on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Max, and my CR-10 S5. I'll be printing them in PETG as I don't have any enclosures. I'll also be ordering my pants from Uniform Warehouse per many recommendations. The jacket and belt were my biggest hang up. I recently was contacted by a prop maker named "Galactic Props" on Facebook and they said they could make the jacket to meet the Level 2 requirements, so I've taken a risk and ordered. As for the Belts and Belt boxes, I've gotten some recommendations and will be looking into those.

So break down.

Softgoods:

• Jacket - Galactic Props (https://www.facebook.com/galactic.props.2025)
• Pants - Uniform Warehouse (https://bit.ly/3GvRCGw)
• Gloves - Endor Finders
• Boots - Amazon (https://amzn.to/4lYQg7A)
• Belt - TBD
• Belt boxes - TBD
• Balaclava - Amazon (https://amzn.to/4jEZioI)

Armor:

• Helmet - cast resin (not sure who they are modeled from).
• Armor - 3D printed PETG (MrPoopie's files).

[BikerScout007]

Always good to add a new PT to the ranks!  We look forward to your progress (and thanks for buying that stuff off me!)

[jsilvius]

Update:
Jacket is apparently complete. They sent me a shipping label. We'll see if it shows up and how good it looks. In the mean time, I've started printing @MrPoopie 's files. The shin failed a couple of times, so I switched to the arms. LOL.
I do have a question about the forearms. The files are two pieces, but I need to glue those together, correct?
First couple of coats of of filler primer on arms, biceps, and hand plates. Toe cover are on their 3rd coat of semi-gloss white.


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[MrPoopie]

Good news all around (except for the shins, 3D printers can be fun like that). Yes, the forearms are each 2 large pieces. The left forearm also has 2 small oval parts that attach to the top detail section (see the CRL for positioning).

[jsilvius]

The parts bin is filling up. Unfortunately I have a two week hiatus for a business trip out to Seattle, so not printing for two weeks. When I get back I need to try printing TPU parts. Hopefully my jacket will be here when I return and I'll have my soft goods all together.

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[jsilvius]

Back at it this week.
The jacket came in from Galactic Props. The material feels good, and the quality seems on par with other costumes parts I've bought from other vendors, but it doesn't have the flat stitching that I inquired about them doing. I think it will still pass basic approval. Would welcome any input from the folks here.


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[MrPoopie]

I think you'll still pass Lvl1. It actually looks like they just did flat stitching and didn't put any pipping under the fabric to create ridges. The pipping is the real reason why there haven't been any vendors making this. It's not your run of the mill sewing job, it's pretty complicated and time consuming to create.

[BikerScout007]

The Level 1 requirements were reduced just to have "Ribbed sleeves" so you should be fine.  The more accurate details only apply to L2

[jsilvius]

So i printed my first TPU parts. I've never used TPU. I used the default setting from Cura for generic TPU on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Max. I think they turned out good. Little oozing, so may need to adjust the temp some.

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[MrPoopie]

Looks pretty good especially for a first go at it TPU can be a little finicky because of the elasticity of the filament. I think you did a great job.

[jsilvius]

Still need to print the right back.
And obviously sand, paint, etc. But it looks pretty good. The only question I have is, I'm obviously a bigger guy then @MrPoopie , so the sided don't reach each other innthe back, so there is about a 6" gap between them. Any suggestions on how I should close that gap?



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[MrPoopie]

If it makes you feel better mine doesn’t actually touch on the back either. It’s left separated to give some movement. I attached my TPU pieces to a cloth “cummerbund” vest that zips in front behind the front a section. It has straps like suspenders to help keep it up. The belt also attaches to this so everything is held by my shoulders so that it doesn’t slip.

Let me see if I can dig up a picture.

[MrPoopie]

 

If you look at the rest of the album there's more pictures of the mid section and the rest of my build.

[jsilvius]

17 hours ago, MrPoopie said:

 

If you look at the rest of the album there's more pictures of the mid section and the rest of my build.

Thanks Justin, I was reading your WIP the other day. I was curious as to how the pieces all attached to the "cumberbund". 

[MrPoopie]

There's a velcro strip on the top and bottom edges of the bund and the TPU has corresponding velcro on the backside top and bottom, which then stick t together. There's a gap at the back where the TPU pieces don't meet but this is covered by the stiff back plate, which also uses velcro to hold itself in place.

You'll notice a cutout on the bottom of the TPU sides as well. This has more velcro (too much velcro used on this armor). The belt has corresponding velcro on the backside to attach here. This way everything seams up nicely and is held up buy the suspenders on the bund. I need to add padding to the shoulder straps of the bund because my shoulders get tired after about an hour of holding everything up without some way to disperse the weight more. The belt is a simple canvas belt that I made with velcro on one side and is sewn to the rubber outer belt on the other. The boxes and such are all attached to the rubber belt with Chicago screws. You could probably use rivets but I prefer Chicago screws because they are removable.