Sgt. Bilko’s Mando Scout Build

[Sgt.Bilko]

Busy after work session tonight. Performed the Christina Earl Grey wash on my white soft parts. Recipe: 3ish gallons of hot water, 4 T Bags with a 15 minute steep. I soaked the nylon strapping for 15 min, cloth strapping 1 min and the KriptonTop cummerbund for 5 min one side and 5 min extra after flipping around. Smells great and so far looks great! Kudos to [mention=82250]TKZombie[/mention] .








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Final product from tea bath. Results look really good. Starting to get dirty




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[Sgt.Bilko]

Belt assembly today. Following MonCal and Mickeys instructions, so the belt is slightly more of a hybrid outcome. For example, buckle close instead of Velcro. Question for the team. First pic is my drop box buckle. I’ve tried zooming in on the crl and several builds. Are the orientation of the drop box buckles correct in my first go? I’m holding off on sewing before getting confirmation. Also, any general statements on the belt are appreciated.












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[Chopper]

This orientation:

 

Also, most people put a reinforcing strip of plastic between the back belt webbing and the rivet washer. Too late now, but might be something to keep an eye on, as that's a known stress point.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Not too late. I can take my electrical cutters and remove the rivets. I’ve got a box of 1/8” on the shelf to redo with reinforced piece of ABS. Thanks for the tip, trooping can be rough on armor.

Thanks for the high res picture, much easier to see the buckle orientation


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[Chopper]

You can drill an aluminum rivet out with a 1/8" cobal steel bit, but even aluminum rivets can be tricky to cut with just wire cutters. Be careful not to mangle the belt while trying to get it out.

Note that many of the images in the CRL have higher resolution versions if you click on the image.

[Sgt.Bilko]

You can drill an aluminum rivet out with a 1/8" cobal steel bit, but even aluminum rivets can be tricky to cut with just wire cutters. Be careful not to mangle the belt while trying to get it out.
Note that many of the images in the CRL have higher resolution versions if you click on the image.

Roger that.  This was my main concern.  The instructions that came with my armor have this orientation (below).  Strapping under and under.  Whereas the CRL has under and over.  The CRL pic was clear, but didn't explain the discrepancy.  I'll go with the CRL pic in this case.

[Chopper]

Some of the instructions that vendors send can be very old and out of date. Always use the CRL.

 

[Sgt.Bilko]

Rivets removed. One of my favorite tools ever are these micro shear flush cutters. Very strong and precise. No drilling or damage. Just wear safety glasses, as the rivet head can fly!






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[Sgt.Bilko]

Added the ABS reinforcement with new rivet. Had to use medium length 1/8” for the added depth.






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[Sgt.Bilko]

Dry fit. Comments welcome.




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[Chopper]

Maybe sag it the bund a little bit lower, but you're in the ballpark.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Greeblie and sewing efforts tonight. Rinse and repeat.





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[Sgt.Bilko]

Continuing the strapping and sewing. Is this gap worth closing? I’m ready to trim to fit closer to the body before adding strapping.






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[Chopper]

No, I wouldn't worry about that. Plus once you hang the shoulder bells on there it'll sit a bit lower.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Chest workout. Snaps and straps.









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[Sgt.Bilko]

Sewing the suit. Armor attachment with strapping and Velcro. Moving to the chest side straps and back tank. RS Props helmet is on its way!










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