Sgt. Bilko’s Mando Scout Build

[Sgt.Bilko]

Received my Cummerbund and pouches from KriptonTop. Very good quality. My waist measurement must of been off, or I lost a lot of weight recently . Either way, I need to shorten the length. I have some Questions.

Should I simply sew one more velcro strip and keep the length or cut both sides to length and have one velcro sewn on? Off center….

Lastly, I’ve seen where the cod strap can be attached to the flight suit or the back of the cummerbund. What is easiest, in terms of comfort and suiting up?


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[Chopper]

Most people attach the cod strap to the flak vest, but since the Mando scout doesn't have one, you can attach it to the back of your flight suit. You'll need to add a piece of velcro for the attachment. 

Regarding the bund, how off center are we talking? The back should be generally centered, but there's some room for it being offset. See screenshot from the show, below. 

[Sgt.Bilko]

That’s a good reference. Mine is around 1 1/2”…similar.


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[Chopper]

I've seen some folks with a 4-5" offset and that's too much, but yeah, what you said should be okay for the Mando scout.

[Sgt.Bilko]

The actual length is 4” from the original velcro
End. I’m committed to shortening it by 3”. Question is split evenly on both ends or just one?

The only thing causing me pause are these inside Velcro pieces. What are they use for? Attaching to the jumpsuit?





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[Chopper]

The standards are somewhat looser for the Mando scout. Just put it on and show us if you're concerned about it.

Yes, those inside pieces are for attaching to the jumpsuit (or flak vest for ROTJ).

[Sgt.Bilko]

I guess the main concern is the off center seam on the back. All else is centered on front. Sorry, just measuring twice before cutting!





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[Chopper]

For a mando scout, your back seam is just fine. Based on your photo, you should not need to alter your bund.

[Sgt.Bilko]

It’s been a minute since I’ve had a big brown box day! Today, I received a package from Far Away

It’s immediately apparent the quality of the armor. It’s thick, sturdy and well trimmed. Nice clean edges. Too bad I need to dirty up this beautiful armor…




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[Sgt.Bilko]

Assembling MrPoopie’s EC-17 Hold-Out 3D blaster. Adding real screws, trigger guard and ball bearings for rattle effect (and added weight). For MPs design at 100% scale, 6 x 5/8”and 1” pan head screws (capacitor and scope mount) and 4 x 2” for the scope fastener. Bearings are a mix of 1/4” and 1/2”. I will finish this off with a metal trigger guard and a strong neodymium magnet mated to another in my boot holster.

 

 

 

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[Sgt.Bilko]

Continuing on the blaster during holiday break. Primed and painted the blaster and then shifted focus to the guard. For MPs 3D 100% model 1/8”x1/2” flat aluminum worked well. Bent on the vice and set countersunk screw holes (#6 sink drill bit).

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[Sgt.Bilko]

Wrapped up the blaster. Assembled, painted and weathered. Ball bearings and magnet are installed. Fits nicely in the holster.












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[Chopper]

Nice work. Just a note, but the CRL says "Blaster is lightly weathered" so you might want to tone down the weathering a bit.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Noted. Thanks for the feedback.


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[Sgt.Bilko]

Removed quite a bit of weathering, save a few spots.






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[Sgt.Bilko]

Final act before the end of vacation…helmet electronics. Here, I’ve created a cooling and sound system powered individually by the push buttons (will make a 3d print bracket mount later) through a single Li-Ion battery pack. The sound is generated from a class D amp with mic and Aux input. The battery is charged from the amp board via onboard charging circuit using USB C port.

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[Chopper]

25 minutes ago, Sgt.Bilko said:

Removed quite a bit of weathering, save a few spots.

Looks good.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Shifting focus to armor, starting with the TD. I noticed my greeblie has the capacitor on the left, whereas the CRL shows on the right. I’ve seen reference photos with the capacitor on the left.  Can't really tell from the reference photos on the forum.  Does it matter?

Sent with my kit:



Reference photo:

CRL:

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[Chopper]

I see why there's some confusion now.

I believe the upper photo you posted is from the blu-ray disk photos of the ROTJ scout. However, the source you're using for reference appears to be inverted.

This is the original image:

The CRL for ROTJ has the cylinder part of the rectangular greeblie on the right side, which is supported by screen evidence.

The CRL for the mando scout also has the cylinder part of the rectangular greeblie on the right side. As per the CRL, the greeblies "may be attached on either side of the detonator housing."

I can't answer why the greeb is designed backwards in the kit that you purchased, but you should either purchase a replacement (contact Studio Creations) or print one (DM @MrPoopie).

 

 

[Sgt.Bilko]

Thanks for the quick reply Chopper.  I found this video from Mickey B. on YouTube.  Very helpful tutorial that I've been referencing (along with RS).  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnipWxolqdU

Around 58:30 Mickey describes the variation on the greeblies for the TD.  I'll send a quick note to MonCal and get their opinion.  I've encountered similar debates on the E-11D in the past.  Sometimes it can be a matter of variation with onscreen props or even suiting up differently (things upside down, etc.).  Separately, I've already received MPs 3D files and will print out a version with the capacitor on the right and mount the greeblie on the long side of the TD.

Thanks again!

[Chopper]

Yes, Mickey is talking about this arrangement for the ROTJ scout in the video, see below.

What stays constant, regardless of whether the greeblie is oriented upside down or not, is the cylinder location on the greeblie itself.

When oriented with the indent on top, the cylinder is on the right side. The greeblie you have appears to be created backwards, which is puzzling, but that seems to be how the vendor made it.

If you print off MP's greeb, then you should be good.

[Sgt.Bilko]

5 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Yes, Mickey is talking about this arrangement for the ROTJ scout in the video, see below.

What stays constant, regardless of whether the greeblie is oriented upside down or not, is the cylinder location on the greeblie itself.

When oriented with the indent on top, the cylinder is on the right side. The greeblie you have appears to be created backwards, which is puzzling, but that seems to be how the vendor made it.

If you print off MP's greeb, then you should be good.

Thanks Corey for taking the time to explain this.  I have a good path forward now.

Best,

Scott

[Sgt.Bilko]

Printed out a new TD greeblie and did some assembly tonight. Move along…








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[Sgt.Bilko]

Busy after work session tonight. Performed the Christina Earl Grey wash on my white soft parts. Recipe: 3ish gallons of hot water, 4 T Bags with a 15 minute steep. I soaked the nylon strapping for 15 min, cloth strapping 1 min and the KriptonTop cummerbund for 5 min one side and 5 min extra after flipping around. Smells great and so far looks great! Kudos to @TKZombie .








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[Sgt.Bilko]

And a super fast delivery from WampaWear. Gloves and Flightsuit. Great quality and fit. I may remove the glove liner, so I don’t overheat in summer.

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