Sgt. Bilko’s Mando Scout Build

[Sgt.Bilko]

Received my Cummerbund and pouches from KriptonTop. Very good quality. My waist measurement must of been off, or I lost a lot of weight recently . Either way, I need to shorten the length. I have some Questions.

Should I simply sew one more velcro strip and keep the length or cut both sides to length and have one velcro sewn on? Off center….

Lastly, I’ve seen where the cod strap can be attached to the flight suit or the back of the cummerbund. What is easiest, in terms of comfort and suiting up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

Most people attach the cod strap to the flak vest, but since the Mando scout doesn't have one, you can attach it to the back of your flight suit. You'll need to add a piece of velcro for the attachment. 

Regarding the bund, how off center are we talking? The back should be generally centered, but there's some room for it being offset. See screenshot from the show, below. 

[Sgt.Bilko]

That’s a good reference. Mine is around 1 1/2”…similar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

I've seen some folks with a 4-5" offset and that's too much, but yeah, what you said should be okay for the Mando scout.

[Sgt.Bilko]

The actual length is 4” from the original velcro
End. I’m committed to shortening it by 3”. Question is split evenly on both ends or just one?

The only thing causing me pause are these inside Velcro pieces. What are they use for? Attaching to the jumpsuit?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

The standards are somewhat looser for the Mando scout. Just put it on and show us if you're concerned about it.

Yes, those inside pieces are for attaching to the jumpsuit (or flak vest for ROTJ).

[Sgt.Bilko]

I guess the main concern is the off center seam on the back. All else is centered on front. Sorry, just measuring twice before cutting!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

For a mando scout, your back seam is just fine. Based on your photo, you should not need to alter your bund.

[Sgt.Bilko]

It’s been a minute since I’ve had a big brown box day! Today, I received a package from Far Away

It’s immediately apparent the quality of the armor. It’s thick, sturdy and well trimmed. Nice clean edges. Too bad I need to dirty up this beautiful armor…




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sgt.Bilko]

Assembling MrPoopie’s EC-17 Hold-Out 3D blaster. Adding real screws, trigger guard and ball bearings for rattle effect (and added weight). For MPs design at 100% scale, 6 x 5/8”and 1” pan head screws (capacitor and scope mount) and 4 x 2” for the scope fastener. Bearings are a mix of 1/4” and 1/2”. I will finish this off with a metal trigger guard and a strong neodymium magnet mated to another in my boot holster.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

[Sgt.Bilko]

Continuing on the blaster during holiday break. Primed and painted the blaster and then shifted focus to the guard. For MPs 3D 100% model 1/8”x1/2” flat aluminum worked well. Bent on the vice and set countersunk screw holes (#6 sink drill bit).

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sgt.Bilko]

Wrapped up the blaster. Assembled, painted and weathered. Ball bearings and magnet are installed. Fits nicely in the holster.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

Nice work. Just a note, but the CRL says "Blaster is lightly weathered" so you might want to tone down the weathering a bit.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Noted. Thanks for the feedback.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sgt.Bilko]

Removed quite a bit of weathering, save a few spots.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sgt.Bilko]

Final act before the end of vacation…helmet electronics. Here, I’ve created a cooling and sound system powered individually by the push buttons (will make a 3d print bracket mount later) through a single Li-Ion battery pack. The sound is generated from a class D amp with mic and Aux input. The battery is charged from the amp board via onboard charging circuit using USB C port.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

25 minutes ago, Sgt.Bilko said:

Removed quite a bit of weathering, save a few spots.

Looks good.

[Sgt.Bilko]

Shifting focus to armor, starting with the TD. I noticed my greeblie has the capacitor on the left, whereas the CRL shows on the right. I’ve seen reference photos with the capacitor on the left.  Can't really tell from the reference photos on the forum.  Does it matter?

Sent with my kit:



Reference photo:

CRL:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk