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Posted
14 minutes ago, Chopper said:

I can't tell how much of the underside has been ground down, particularly on the tank topper, but the rest looks fine.

It also looks like there's some bubbles and pin holes in the casts. You should try and fill those with apoxiesculpt or other filler putties.

I didnt really sand the underside as much, just the edges on everything. I was planning on using rustoleum sandable filler primer for the little pin holes and bubbles.

Here is everything trimmed and edges lightly sanded.

0Havllu.jpeg

Here are the profiles of the tank toppers. The front areas are a little thicker than the back areas.

G7qcNBs.jpeg

UjL4AMb.jpeg

I think the FL heat warped the second one, so I will have to flatten it back out with my heat gun.

Posted

Yeah, that's quite warped and would need to be straightened out. Same with the vertical vanes as well.

Can you see the faint ridge along the side edge? That's about the thickness that the tank topper should be. It's something around 1/8" in thickness.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Yeah, that's quite warped and would need to be straightened out. Same with the vertical vanes as well.

Can you see the faint ridge along the side edge? That's about the thickness that the tank topper should be. It's something around 1/8" in thickness.

Ok that gives me something to work on this week. I'll see what I can do. If it proves to be too much to get it looking right, I can always order from studio creations.

  • Like 1
Posted

With the help of Chopper, I purchased all the elastic and nylon for the build. One step closer.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/15/2024 at 2:31 PM, UCFWayne said:

I didnt really sand the underside as much, just the edges on everything. I was planning on using rustoleum sandable filler primer for the little pin holes and bubbles.

Here is everything trimmed and edges lightly sanded.

0Havllu.jpeg

Here are the profiles of the tank toppers. The front areas are a little thicker than the back areas.

G7qcNBs.jpeg

UjL4AMb.jpeg

I think the FL heat warped the second one, so I will have to flatten it back out with my heat gun.

I have a bench top belt sander to sand the bottom flat and see if that helps.

Posted

All my elastic, nylon, and buckles came in today. I will try and get out to the store and pick up some gray paint for the chest and belt boxes soon.

  • Like 1
Posted

My wife taped up out belt boxes and chest armor. I painted the rectangles with Rustoleum Granite gray. I also included a picture of the greeblies Ive tried to salvage. I used my heat gun to flatten out my one tank topper and straighten out the vents. I also sanded the bottom of the tank topper to be the same thickness. I coated them all in several coats of sandable filler primer. I'm not sure if I will end up using these.

bOfleFI.jpegfvsy6is.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I was able to do alot of work on our biker scouts today. Now I'm covered in white abs dust. I cut out the holes for the thermal detonator tubes and sanded the edges. I cut and sanded the detonator caps. I cut the strap holes on our knees, upper arms, and fore arms. Still more to do but 1 day at a time.k6X4EI4.jpeg

  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Today I cut the slots for the straps in the chest and back plates. I roughed up the area just inside with 80 grit sand paper.

To do list:

  1. I still need to trim my shoulders so they better fit me and the wife
  2. I also need to better sand the forearms after the rough trim so they are more uniform
  3. Need to remove the marker lines
  4. Clean up the over spray from the gray boxes I painted
  • Like 1
Posted

Awhile back I had talked to Stryker about my greeblies and decided what I had wasnt really good enough. Thanks to Mr Poopie, my friend was able to print out the pieces for me this weekend. The "T" I dont really know what to call it, was just a little too big for the forearm and didnt fit right. My friend had to reduce it a couple mm and the new one fits great. This week, I will use the sandable filler primer on them and get them ready.vLNAblC.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Wayne, these greeblies look clean.  I plan to print MPs for mine as well and use Automotive primer for print lines.  What process / product do you use to clean up prints? 

Great progress, I'm closely following your build and taking notes for mine.

Posted
14 minutes ago, Sgt.Bilko said:

Hi Wayne, these greeblies look clean.  I plan to print MPs for mine as well and use Automotive primer for print lines.  What process / product do you use to clean up prints? 

Great progress, I'm closely following your build and taking notes for mine.

Hey Bilko, I use the rustoleum sandable filler primer. I use it because its pretty cheap and they always have a lot at my local walmart. I think it works well but if I had to only use one, I like the dupicolor sandable filler primer best. The problem is duplicolor is double the cost. often times Im not just doing 1 item, Im doing one for me and the wife so costs add up quick.

i like to do alot of coats until the lines are gone(5 or 6) and then depending on the print, i will sand certain areas to get them better. I will probably have to sand the 2 dome parts since printers always have trouble with domes. these prints will be tricky since there is a lot of detail and i dont want to lose that. i probably will only do a couple coats maybe 3 or 4. i also have to keep in mind that they will need 2 coats of black paint to finish them off.

ive tried other things for print lines, the glazing putty, the acetone/glazy putty paint method, xtc resin, bondo. out of those i liked the glazing putty and the acetone/glazing putty paint methods the most. but it all depends on what item that was printed.

  • Like 1
Posted

Some pictures from yesterday's armor party. Thank you to stryker and delta for all the help. We got velcro placed onto all of the various armor pieces. We used e6000 and the industrial strength sticky velcro. Later this week I will go back and put e6000 around all the edges of the velcro to help it hold a little better.cBCSV18.jpegXCAUIs6.jpegwYI4u1A.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

FYI I used the industrial sticky velcro without any additional glue for my scout and I can tell you that it's still firmly adhered after about 8 years. 

It sticks pretty well as long as the plastic is clean when you adhere it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/15/2024 at 2:12 PM, Chopper said:

I can't tell how much of the underside has been ground down, particularly on the tank topper, but the rest looks fine.

It also looks like there's some bubbles and pin holes in the casts. You should try and fill those with apoxiesculpt or other filler putties.

Thats good to hear. I thought I could just use the standard sticky back of the velcro, but Stryker suggested the e6000 to reinforce it. I know hes been trooping for a very long time so I do whatever he recommends.

 

As for the greeblies, I decided to just go with MrPoopies models and 3d print new ones. Like you said there were just too many problems with the ones that came with my kit. I had to reprint the "T" piece at a smaller size because the original was just a little too big to fit. Its been a little too cold and raining here, but as soon as it dries up and gets a little warmer, I am going to filler primer all of the pieces and then paint them black.

 

I will also do that with the 2 ec17 blasters Stryker gifted to me. The were a couple rough spots I'll have to take care of first, but you get that with pretty much any 3d print. 

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, Chopper said:

FYI I used the industrial sticky velcro without any additional glue for my scout and I can tell you that it's still firmly adhered after about 8 years. 

It sticks pretty well as long as the plastic is clean when you adhere it. 

Usually that’s the case but unfortunately in the Florida sun & humidity- it’ll peel off even with a good alcohol wipe. It’ll hold for a while without extra adhesive but a little extra for good measure is a good idea to avoid any wardrobe malfunctions while trooping, especially during lengthy troops.👍

  • Like 2

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