3D Printed armor sellers?

[Republic_dom]

Hey guys. Im looking at printing my scout armor instead of buying a kit. Are there any vendors that have approvable armor files? The last thing I want to do is buy the wrong files I cant get approved in. I was looking at This armor file on etsy and the one that galactic armory sells. Also, how do you guys hold up with long troops during summer months? I have a few other kits and cant last more than 2-3 hours at cons before pouring sweat.

[Chopper]

Tagging @MrPoopie

[BikerScout007]

6 minutes ago, Republic_dom said:

Hey guys. Im looking at printing my scout armor instead of buying a kit. Are there any vendors that have approvable armor files? The last thing I want to do is buy the wrong files I cant get approved in. I was looking at This armor file on etsy and the one that galactic armory sells. Also, how do you guys hold up with long troops during summer months? I have a few other kits and cant last more than 2-3 hours at cons before pouring sweat.

Approved Vendors, including 3D file sellers, may be found here

We are working with GA to improve some accuracy issues.  They are almost there but not yet!

[Retrofire]

Hi Dominick and welcome! There are several files that are approvable and I will defer to @MrPoopie as he posted a review of the Galactic Armory files and is an expert with 3D printing. I'm in the Dune Sea in AZ and troop at all times of the year. The most important thing to keep in mind is hydrate, hydrate, hydrate, and hydrate. You need to also listen to your body and if you feel the need to kit down then you do so. Everyone has their limitations and we all typically, along with the wranglers, look out for each other.

 

[Republic_dom]

@MrPoopie I've heard you're quite the expert, so I hope you don't mind if I run a few things by you. Typically, I run my printer on the highest resolution settings, even if it takes a few days. I've been using PLA, but ive heard PETG is better for removing layer lines. Currently, my post-printing smoothing process involves rough sanding, applying Bondo spot putty, more sanding, additional Bondo if necessary, followed by filler primer, and then the armor color. Would this process be optimal for achieving a gloss white finish on scout armor? If you have any suggestions for a better post-printing smoothing method, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks for all the help! I'm excited to get started!

[LookBehindYou]

While certainly not an authority on the matter, both myself and @Pluggerare doing similar builds. You may want to check out our build threads to help and get ideas. While ours have not been approved (yet!), others have commented to give us help through the process. If it saves you any time or effort it’s worth it!

 

[Aradun]

If you haven’t tried XTC3D, give it a go. I have found it reduces post processing significantly, but working with it does take a little getting used to as it’s a resin coating. It will minimize sanding significantly, and you should use a respirator when sanding due to it being resin, but if you’re printing hi res then there would likely be little sanding. I’ve not had to use putty or bondo when using XTC3D, but ymmv.

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2V5ZI0BK7N7SF&keywords=XTC3D&qid=1707608308&sprefix=xtc3d+%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

PETG does have advantages over PLA, but it takes some time to fine tune your print settings. However, once dialed in it prints very well and is a bit more durable than PLA especially with regard to potential warping when exposed to hot weather.

I’m sure MrPoopie will have more to say on the subject. He really knows his stuff.

[LookBehindYou]

2 minutes ago, Aradun said:

If you haven’t tried XTC3D, give it a go. I have found it reduces post processing significantly, but working with it does take a little getting used to as it’s a resin coating. It will minimize sanding significantly, and you should use a respirator when sanding due to it being resin, but if you’re printing hi res then there would likely be little sanding. I’ve not had to use putty or bondo when using XTC3D, but ymmv.

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2V5ZI0BK7N7SF&keywords=XTC3D&qid=1707608308&sprefix=xtc3d+%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

PETG does have advantages over PLA, but it takes some time to fine tune your print settings. However, once dialed in it prints very well and is a bit more durable than PLA especially with regard to potential warping when exposed to hot weather.

I’m sure MrPoopie will have more to say on the subject. He really knows his stuff.

Thanks for linking that! Since my wife has been putting up with me doing this biker scout build I promised her I’d make her a nimbus 2000, this will definitely help since it’d be so hard to sand the broom head portion.

[MrPoopie]

Post processing for PETG is very similar to PLA but will be more durable for wearable armor in the long run. PETG does take a little more effort to sand but it's honestly pretty comparable to PLA. Take @Aradun advice and check out XTC3D and watch some videos about it's use. It does have a process but I feel that it's easier to work with than bondo. PETG can have syringing issues too because of the higher temps so make sure to dial in your settings and print temp towers. I prefer PETG over PLA but other people have some issues with it. Just dial in your settings and you'll be rewarded with prints that are stronger and more heat resistant.