Starting off my first armor build!

[MrMike]

Howdy everyone, I'm ready and excited to start building my scout trooper! I've already done some research and taken notes from other posts, as well gotten some questions answered by other members on the forum but I still have a few more questions!

To begin, my armor set is from the new Galactic Armory files. Sadly I don't own a 3D printer so I purchased the kit from 3Dcauldron which they made to fit my body size. However, when I bought it the assessment made by MrPoopie wasn't out yet and I didn't do enough research to see that the armor will require some modification for approval. Picture 1 is the entire set I got, just missing thermal detonator, tank top greeble, and chin strap.

So far I've only got two questions for modifying this kit:

1. Since the entire armor kit was adjusted and printed to fit my body size, I'm 5'5" and really skinny so my belt pretty much shrunk to a small size. I watched the armor build video and noticed that 1.5 inch webbing is supposed to go through the front belt slits but since my belt shrunk it fits only 1 inch webbing. Is my belt too small/shrunk to be approved or will it still be acceptable? (Picture 2)

2. I don't know how I missed this but the chest armor is missing a grey box area! I was thinking about making a box area by carving one into the armor with something like a drill press then filling/smoothing out with putty. Would it really be a good idea to go this way and if so any suggestions on the best way to carve a box area? Just trying to see if I could go this way instead of getting a completely new chest armor plate. (Picture 3)

I can go for ordering new armor parts to be made that would be approved, its just that I want to see if I can save some money by modifying and adjusting these parts first. Sorry if these are dumb questions!! Any input would be appreciated!

[BikerScout007]

The exact measurements when it comes to strapping is a Level 2 requirement so you're fine there -- unless you go for Level 2.

So if I am understanding you right, the kit is 3d printed, you just didn't print it yourself?  If so, I'm thinking it would be enormously difficult to carve a rectangle into the chest piece without shattering it.  It's odd that it's not there though -- did they use the correct file?

[MrMike]

18 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

The exact measurements when it comes to strapping is a Level 2 requirement so you're fine there -- unless you go for Level 2.

So if I am understanding you right, the kit is 3d printed, you just didn't print it yourself?  If so, I'm thinking it would be enormously difficult to carve a rectangle into the chest piece without shattering it.  It's odd that it's not there though -- did they use the correct file?

Correct, its 3D printed just not printed by me. I also found it odd its not there as well but that's my fault for not noticing it when looking at GA's storefront image for the armor:

If I were to at least try and carve the rectangle box any suggestions on the best way to do it? If I mess up I can just buy a new chest piece anyway.
Thanks for the help!

 

[BikerScout007]

1 minute ago, MrMike said:

Correct, its 3D printed just not printed by me. I also found it odd its not there as well but that's my fault for not noticing it when looking at GA's storefront image for the armor:

If I were to at least try and carve the rectangle box any suggestions on the best way to do it? If I mess up I can just buy a new chest piece anyway.
Thanks for the help!

 

Well the thing with 3d parts is that they aren't solid in the same way vacuum formed plastic parts are.  There is an outer layer of a few very thin walls, but the interior is usually hollow with a honeycomb-like structure to give it support.  So there really wouldn't be anything to carve into.  

We've been working with GA to get the files up to date for 501st approval.  He has a tendency to pull his models from video games, and a lot of times they don't have the actual details in the models because they layer them over top later on.  

I can bring our resident 3D expert @MrPoopie in to see if he has any advice.  

[LookBehindYou]

7 hours ago, BikerScout007 said:

The exact measurements when it comes to strapping is a Level 2 requirement so you're fine there -- unless you go for Level 2.

So if I am understanding you right, the kit is 3d printed, you just didn't print it yourself?  If so, I'm thinking it would be enormously difficult to carve a rectangle into the chest piece without shattering it.  It's odd that it's not there though -- did they use the correct file?

I’m using the Galactic Armory files (have a WIP here as well).  Looking through my emails it appears he updated his files on 12/28/23 to include the rectangular detail.

@MrMike when did you order your kit? I’d assume if they’re printing his stuff they’d get the updates to the files as well.

As far as modifying it to make the indentation it may be possible.  It depends how thick that band is and if you’re going straight through it or not.  On mine you don’t see the indentation on the back which means it’s thick enough. Would probably require some detailed bondo work or some styrene. I think it’s possible but a matter of how much time and effort your wanting to invest with the string possibility that it just won’t work no matter what.

[MrPoopie]

If you have a steady hand you could use a dremel to cut a rectangular hole in the chest and then use a small piece of ABS to back it. You will have to fill the gaps with some kind of ABS paste or something similar since there will be some empty space between the inner and outer walls. because prints have infill which is usually something like 20%. The belt is a bit small but if it fits proportionally you may not have trouble getting approved. I know that most smaller trooper still use full size belts because of the strapping size issue and it's rarely noticeable. Just make sure that your dropboxes aren't too large or it the smaller belt will stand out.

With the older GA files you will need to replace the holster as it's not up to CRL requirements. The helmet will also require significant modifications  to fill in cutouts that should not be present and making the snout area the proper size to fit a CRL acceptable Snout greeble. Those are just a few things. Please read up on a couple of our other builds currently happening with the GA files.

[MrMike]

7 hours ago, LookBehindYou said:

I’m using the Galactic Armory files (have a WIP here as well).  Looking through my emails it appears he updated his files on 12/28/23 to include the rectangular detail.

@MrMike when did you order your kit? I’d assume if they’re printing his stuff they’d get the updates to the files as well.

As far as modifying it to make the indentation it may be possible.  It depends how thick that band is and if you’re going straight through it or not.  On mine you don’t see the indentation on the back which means it’s thick enough. Would probably require some detailed bondo work or some styrene. I think it’s possible but a matter of how much time and effort your wanting to invest with the string possibility that it just won’t work no matter what.

I ordered my kit around that time it got updated which makes sense why I have the older version. Just asked if they'd be willing to get me the new version and they said yes. Thanks for your suggestion for making the indentation!

3 hours ago, MrPoopie said:

If you have a steady hand you could use a dremel to cut a rectangular hole in the chest and then use a small piece of ABS to back it. You will have to fill the gaps with some kind of ABS paste or something similar since there will be some empty space between the inner and outer walls. because prints have infill which is usually something like 20%. The belt is a bit small but if it fits proportionally you may not have trouble getting approved. I know that most smaller trooper still use full size belts because of the strapping size issue and it's rarely noticeable. Just make sure that your dropboxes aren't too large or it the smaller belt will stand out.

With the older GA files you will need to replace the holster as it's not up to CRL requirements. The helmet will also require significant modifications  to fill in cutouts that should not be present and making the snout area the proper size to fit a CRL acceptable Snout greeble. Those are just a few things. Please read up on a couple of our other builds currently happening with the GA files.

Thanks for the suggestions on how to cut through for the indentation. I'll be looking forward to getting a newly approved holster model as well. I also left some questions for the assessment you made I hope could be answered

Thank you guys for the help, will update progress soon!

[MrMike]

My current update: I'm getting a new 3D printed chest piece with the gray rectangle box area. Also thinking about getting a new helmet back-piece since the current one I have comes with 3D printed vents 👎

Though as mentioned in my first post, what didn't come with my kit was the chin strap and thermal detonator parts. I was thinking about buying those pieces plus a new holster from MonCal Props but what came up to my mind was: Would it be approvable to have some ABS plastic parts on your armor even though the rest of it is 3D printed? 

Thanks for all the recent help guys!

[LookBehindYou]

9 minutes ago, MrMike said:

My current update: I'm getting a new 3D printed chest piece with the gray rectangle box area. Also thinking about getting a new helmet back-piece since the current one I have comes with 3D printed vents 👎

Though as mentioned in my first post, what didn't come with my kit was the chin strap and thermal detonator parts. I was thinking about buying those pieces plus a new holster from MonCal Props but what came up to my mind was: Would it be approvable to have some ABS plastic parts on your armor even though the rest of it is 3D printed? 

Thanks for all the recent help guys!

From my understanding the chin piece is optional, I grabbed mine off either thingiverse or cults 3d for free. Because it’s not shown when in full kit it isn’t a requirement. For the thermal detonator and holster, I ditched the GA one and went with files from @MrPoopie, he might be able to hook you up.  As far as abs and 3d printed not sure. I’d imagine it’d be ok to mix like that as long as they have the same finish and look overall, which may be easier said than done.

[Chopper]

As an armorer, I can confirm that the chin strap and chin cup are optional.

[MrPoopie]

33 minutes ago, MrMike said:

Though as mentioned in my first post, what didn't come with my kit was the chin strap and thermal detonator parts. I was thinking about buying those pieces plus a new holster from MonCal Props but what came up to my mind was: Would it be approvable to have some ABS plastic parts on your armor even though the rest of it is 3D printed? 

ABS and printed parts together is approvable as long as the finish makes everything seem like they're from the same kit. Basically you don't want any specific armor piece standing out more than another. This can be a little tricky with larger 3D parts since they sometimes looks pretty crisp compared to ABS parts that have softer edges as a result of the vacuum-forming process. The paint is tricky to match as well. Just make sure to really "finish" your 3D parts well and you should be good. 

[MrMike]

Hey everyone, currently on the sanding and painting portion of the build. I’m sanding up and spraying painting the arm parts as well the knee parts. Going to hold on the helmet part and chest parts since I’m getting the new approved parts for stickers. Will send update pics soon!

Since these are 3D printed parts, I thought of a question while painting: will very small print lines or small paint runs affect approval? Are close up pictures of each armor part also included with the approval process? Of course I’ve been trying my best to fill and sand down print lines but as I was painting, there were some of the smallest print lines you can only see if you put your face up to the part.

[Chopper]

To answer your question about print lines -- the expectation is that 3D printed armor should appear as the ABS plastic used for ROTJ. That means fully finished with no print lines. 

Will your GML ask for close up photos? That's their call. Will very small lines make a difference? Maybe? Post a photo and we can give your our opinion, but in the end it's the local GML that does basic approval. 

[MrMike]

1 hour ago, Chopper said:

To answer your question about print lines -- the expectation is that 3D printed armor should appear as the ABS plastic used for ROTJ. That means fully finished with no print lines. 

Will your GML ask for close up photos? That's their call. Will very small lines make a difference? Maybe? Post a photo and we can give your our opinion, but in the end it's the local GML that does basic approval. 

Here's my first finished knee armor piece. Forearm, upper arm, and drop boxes should be finished tomorrow.

 

Current method I'm using in order: Sand base piece with 80, 100, then 150. Applied bondo using bondo/acetone method, also used bondo by itself to fill difficult lines/cracks. Sanded bondo with 150, 220. Sprayed Rustoleum filler primer on piece, wet-sanded with 1K grit. Sprayed Rustoleum gloss white on piece, softly and gently wet-sanded with 1K grit on areas with runs or other imperfections (still learning how to use spray paint without making runs!). Finally, applied Rustoleum clearcoat gloss.

Let me know what you guys think how the final piece came out. Any advice or suggestions to the final piece or my method welcomed!!

[Plugger]

Hello Mr. Mike, I used to work with XTC 3D, and I found out that using 3D print resin mixed with baby powder is way more forgiving. It's also much cheaper and easier to sand. You can control the viscosity by changing your mix ratio. Additionally, when you cure resin with a UV lamp, it dries instantly; there's no need to wait for the product to cure. I encourage you to read my WIP and poke me if you have any questions. I'm not a scout expert, but I've printed/post process a lot of stuff.

[Chopper]

A word of warning on sanding print resin, or any resin, really. Resin dust is toxic. Make sure you're doing it in a ventilated space, or outside, and wearing a respirator with a P100 particulate matter filter. Wet sanding helps as well.

As for the photos you posted, I can't see any obvious print lines that would be an issue.

[MrMike]

Hey everyone, latest update!
These pieces below are completed and painted. Going to use a Dremel soon to cut a slit for strapping on the upper arm armor.
A forearm armor piece is missing from this picture because the painting is not yet completed. As for the one in the picture, I put in the strap and it fits great!
The knee armor pieces are strapped and have been tested, they also fit great. Going to add in the second straps using rivets soon.
Finally, I forgot those drop box strap slits are too big. Probably going to add in some styrene to make it appear smaller.

I decided to do these parts first since they're easy sand up and paint. Here is what I've got next:

- New DLT-19 prop just arrived earlier today, going to be working on that tomorrow.

- Ordered some work boots and marine vinyl to start working on DIY scout boots. Also ordered a balaclava, new parachute buckles, and some black decal tape to put on the back tank. These things also should arrive tomorrow.

- Going to try and use a heat gun to make the shoulder bell appear more rounded since it came looking pointy.

I will be working on the above in the meantime until I get my new helmet and front chest pieces, will update you all soon!