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Helmet (and other) Questions...


RZill

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Eh, actually, I’m taking it off and going with gloss enamel. The acrylic matte might be good for the greeblie, but this is too dull. Gloss enamel is what I used for my TK ab buttons and those look good.


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  • RZill changed the title to Helmet (and other) Questions...

Adding some non-helmet questions while the snout and greeblie paint dries.

I feel like my TD is too short. This is how it came with the SC kit and all I did was sand down each end for the caps. There’s little room between the TD and end caps. Should I sand the TD ends down a bit? Is it too short? Measuring straight from end to end (caps included) it’s 11.5 inches.


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It looks fine in your hand. How does it look when you're wearing it on your belt?

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I know it’s upside down, but I guess it doesn’t look too short on the belt. Nothing is attached yet. I might barely sand down the edges of the TD.


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OK, I think I am finally happy with the paint job on my snout and greeblie.  I am going to tackle one thing that has scared me, which is applying the stickers.  In the meantime, is there a good basic build thread for me to reference for building the TD and boot holster?  I've been looking at a couple of Lancer threads, and it makes me think too much about things.  I want it done right, but it's making me too nit picky.

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Doesn't Studio Creations send their boot holsters fully assembled? Has that changed?

What's left to do on your detonator? In the photo it looks mostly done, except for gluing the greebs and adding the zip tie?

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7 hours ago, RZill said:

OK, I think I am finally happy with the paint job on my snout and greeblie.  I am going to tackle one thing that has scared me, which is applying the stickers.  In the meantime, is there a good basic build thread for me to reference for building the TD and boot holster?  I've been looking at a couple of Lancer threads, and it makes me think too much about things.  I want it done right, but it's making me too nit picky.

TD along with everything else:

 

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1 hour ago, BikerScout007 said:

TD along with everything else:

 

I had actually just found that one, myself, right after posting this!  But, I had a family emergency and couldn't amend my post.  Thanks  :)

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1 hour ago, Chopper said:

I guess Jeff has changed it up then.

Yes, it's completely disassembled.  The only thing they do is put grooves where the five cuts go into the holster.  Hard to tell from the pics in Scoutopedia - are those cuts complete holes, or just ridges carved into it?  One photo looks like cuts all the way through, but I want to know before I do anything to it.  And my TD is not assembled at all - I have not permanently affixed anything but the greeblies.  My main question is if the clips need to be riveted on.  I am guessing they don't, since you don't see anything but the tops of them and nothing is mentioned in the CRL about that.

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32 minutes ago, RZill said:

Yes, it's completely disassembled.  The only thing they do is put grooves where the five cuts go into the holster.  Hard to tell from the pics in Scoutopedia - are those cuts complete holes, or just ridges carved into it?  One photo looks like cuts all the way through, but I want to know before I do anything to it.  And my TD is not assembled at all - I have not permanently affixed anything but the greeblies.  My main question is if the clips need to be riveted on.  I am guessing they don't, since you don't see anything but the tops of them and nothing is mentioned in the CRL about that.

For the answers to all these questions... watch the video, watch the video, watch the video.

As for riveting the clips on -- that's probably the best way to do it, but like with all parts of the costume that are not visible from the outside, we do not specify.  We only care how it looks from the outside.  CRLs are not build instructions, they are visual and textual guides to how the costume should look. 

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25 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

For the answers to all these questions... watch the video, watch the video, watch the video.

As for riveting the clips on -- that's probably the best way to do it, but like with all parts of the costume that are not visible from the outside, we do not specify.  We only care how it looks from the outside.  CRLs are not build instructions, they are visual and textual guides to how the costume should look. 

Thanks, Mickey!  I was going to watch the video today and get a lot done, but had a family emergency that took most of my day.  

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Of course, family always comes first.

Give it a watch when you get a chance.  I think between that and the CRL video, a lot of your questions may be answered!   And anything else, we gotcha covered.

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23 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

Of course, family always comes first.

Give it a watch when you get a chance.  I think between that and the CRL video, a lot of your questions may be answered!   And anything else, we gotcha covered.

You guys are awesome!  I've been a TK for almost five years now, and I sing the praises of the 501st community whenever I have a Q&A with folks.  I don't want to rush it, but I am hoping to be done by July 7th weekend for a big Con.  Three days, and I'd like to not be a TK for all three again.

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My holster looks quite different from any pics I’ve seen on Scoutopedia. Studio Creations have pre-grooved lines going much closer to the top. And the bottom of this raised part goes all the way to the bottom, not about a half inch of flat space like the photos show. Should I just go with what I have, cut where these grooves are and attach? Wonder if I should contact my GL and see what he says, and if I need an entirely new holster. I’m not riveting this on until I’m positive.


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That seems to match the picture on the SC website. It shouldn't be a problem for basic approval but if you're concerned it's never a bad idea to reach out to your GML. If you have your blaster I would recommend doing some test fits before you commit to glue or rivets for that part. You want a snug fit but not overly tight or loose.

2018_kit_trimd_boothols.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Retrofire said:

That seems to match the picture on the SC website. It shouldn't be a problem for basic approval but if you're concerned it's never a bad idea to reach out to your GML. If you have your blaster I would recommend doing some test fits before you commit to glue or rivets for that part. You want a snug fit but not overly tight or loose.

2018_kit_trimd_boothols.jpg

Yes, this is exactly what mine looks like.  I do have the vintage Kenner Biker Scout pistol, which from what I understand, fits this size - I can try that.  And I do have an e-mail out to my GML - still waiting to hear.  Thanks!  I know I am super nit picky and that I would stop doing this, but when it comes to riveting something on the boot - yeah, I want to get that right!  Much appreciated.

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We're all a bit nit picky so you're in good company😁 I would like to caution you on the use of the Kenner blaster though. Those are very oversized when compared to the standard pistols so if you plan on replacing it down the line with something more accurate you might want to keep that in mind. Keep up the great work and questions!

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I think my holster is too small. Maybe it’s just the camera angle?

Hardy har har. Seriously though, I’m fitting my holster with my vintage Kenner pistol, but won’t troop with it. If it’s bigger than the prop pistol, it looks like there’s a photo on Scoutopedia with white leather liner inside that can make up the difference when I get one. Any suggestions on a pistol maker?


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Most accurate pistol available: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23632-the-return-of-the-classic-ec-17/

Note that the SC holster is oversized, so you'll need to use the integrated magnets to keep it in place.

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First of all, Happy Fathers Day to all you who have been helping me, and if you are a dad - or, like me, only a doggy dad.

Question about the top of the tank - CRL only says top of tank has a rivet - multiple photos from CRL and Scoutopedia have the rivet appearing to be put in from either side (from up under the inside of the tank, or from right on top of the tank.  Does it really matter which way the rivet goes in?

Maybe another nit picky question, but again, I don't want to rivet anything before I know for sure.

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