TB-7076 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Belt pieces come out nice. Great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazik Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 My big question because I haven't worked with leather that much, can I dye/bleach/enamel/paint this white? Or chould I cover it with 3M white adhesive vinyl? My ears are open, I would love some advice! Share with me your knowledge and wisdom! I've actually got a (very!) little bit of experience with leather. I can tell you dye will never get you the bright white you're wanting. I suggest finding another use for it because although you might have some success with a high quality leather paint, but it will give in to cracking and flaking within a little bit of time. Wasn't it The Graduate that came up with the famous quote..?.. "Plastics young man, plastics." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladyghost4459 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Perhaps the 3m vinyl would be the way to go. Vinyl or plactic stretched over the belt as the top layer. Or like Mazik said...plastic for the belt. But dyeing the leather is like he said... It probably will not give you the finish you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-7076 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 Leather dye is only going to work in case the leather is not sealed. I'd consult pages dealing with car restoration. I got a good turorial to prepare finished leather for dyeing but it is in german and I don't have the time to translate such a large text atm. However he used US products of the company Leatherique.com iirc. I think you can also get some information there about working with leather colours. Still I think espescially white will be a b.... to apply properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 3, 2006 Author Share Posted December 3, 2006 Thanks for the news, my lords and lady! Minor set back, just need to step back and get some perspective. I'll check out that website Madphisto and see what secrets I can use. Thanks! Thank you all! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcturus1020 Posted December 3, 2006 Share Posted December 3, 2006 My best advice is to hop on I-90 out to Elgin and pay a visit to the Leather Factory . . . or at least give them a call and ask what your options may be. The guys there are really great and have a wealth of info. They may be able to shed some light on exactly what you'll need and even how to do it. I'd recommend using a deglazer on it first, then a few coats of Fiebing's white leather dye letting each coat fully dry before applying a new coat. After that, seal it with an acrylic resolene. I've made a few Imperial black belts before using these products, and it's always worked out well for me. Leather Factory 1041 Davis Road Elgin, IL 847-289-5227 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 Arcturus: You are THE man! These guys are affiliated with Tandy Leather. This should be a good place to get some answers. I give them call Monday! ugg-ugg, ook-oook!!! MOCKY-MOCKY TIME!!!! This will be the third attempt at the knee armor. I have been using our MoM pictures and the Visual Guide/Lucas Archive picture for all the brain material. Then I sat down and did a lot of thinking. It was mocky-locky mock-up time with paper scissors and masking tape, and a purple marker! The purple areas are BLACK OUTS. They're there to keep the piece supported. The one thing I forgot to do for these pictures was to put a ruler in there. So that first picture, if you put a ruler behind it, it should read: 7-3/4-inches (19.8cm) tall x 7-1/4-inches (18.5cm) at its widest. TONS OF ANGLES! Crazy angles that toe-in! I did my best to keep the initial 140-degree angle for the front. It looks like 130 to 135 here. Couldn't keep it accuarate while taping. A good visual referrence none the less. I'll need a support jig to keep the angle correct for assembly. The sides on the bottom, I flaired them out at 60-degrees. It should work, and it looks like it should fit my knee size. I am considering making the center pieces larger to accommodate my large, knobby knees. As always your questions and comments are always appreciated! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-7076 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 A question: Is the indention on each side between the two side sections intended? I know that there is one reference where it looks as if (or the material collapsed there due to stunt action) but I don't think it is the case. Otherwise fine approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 4, 2006 Author Share Posted December 4, 2006 A question: Is the indention on each side between the two side sections intended? I know that there is one reference where it looks as if (or the material collapsed there due to stunt action) but I don't think it is the case. Otherwise fine approach. Thank Madphisto! I not sure if the side pieces are indented (angled inward). The referrence pictures from The Lucas Archives appears that way. Could be just be lighting or again, distortion from the camera angle, or like you said, stunt work stressing the material. There is a slight shadow which made me try it out to see if it would work. I am starting the measurements tonight, and I'll be able to start cutting the sides by mid week. The question I have for you, since you've got a keen eye for the details, and have a few years on me making a costume, are the front and side panels on the lower section of the knee armor slightly curved? Thanks again! I can use every gram of help thrown my way! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazik Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 This is the best screencap on the knee I've seen: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-7076 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Mazik just showed it. You probably remember my thread about the possiblity to produce a knee protector out of soft material. A major reason for this project has been the fact that the whole body of the item feels a bit more organic than the others. Of course the vacuform technique contributed to this effect but the sculpt most certainly featured curves and a softe shape. Otherwise the replicas which mainly base on straight geometrical patterns wouldn't differ from the original so much. I think working with clay or wood is the best way to achieve this effect. Using a solid sculpt base I'd still work with putty or similar material to go into details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Good point, Madphisto I could still free-form the master pattern using plastic. If I could get a more updated copy, or on teh computers at work for a couple of weeks, I can viturally build the part, and build it via sterolithography for an RTV mold. Since I'm using a RTV Silicone molding technique (NON-SLUSH CASTING), I have greater control over part shapes, and materials to cast in. I could use a more flexible urethane when casting. Something more closer to a rubbery plastic. Good tension, and shock absorbing. Problem is these urthanes are harder to color intrinsically, and to keep from yellowing, and often are difficult to paint. The screen cap and the Visual Guide/Lucas Archive pictures have a lot in common... and that could explain the "fold over" depending how the knee pad is attached to the leg. I could try pursuing this with some help. Great screen cap Mazik. Is that the sceen when the scout looks behind to see where Leia is, and then hits the accelerator? - fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazik Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Great screen cap Mazik. Is that the sceen when the scout looks behind to see where Leia is, and then hits the accelerator? - fk That would be jpeg 294 uploaded by army scout, on page 2 of the screen caps section on BSN I believe you nailed it right though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 Alrighty.... The pictures looks like it has some subtle curves on it. Should be just as easy if I was doing the angular construction. However, I will be waiting for my boots from Ghst915 before I start this part proper. I still need to scale it to my leg/knee area. The second mock up will be a corrugated cardboard hot glued together. I'll post pictures of that soon. Right now... the tank topper needs some primer and some paint... Flat Black? or just a regular black should do it? Also... my fears of the chest and backplate are coming to pass... and how much it will cost to build them. I might not be doing castings of them, as the cost is starting to add. The silicone alone would cost me. I will be posting pictures of my belt and other segments very very soon! stay tuned! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 27, 2006 Author Share Posted December 27, 2006 Greetings from the land of not-feeling-too-well. Darn Ewok Virus has been coursing through my system and the holidays have passed me by while I was moaning and wailing to the porcelein gods. Ewok Influenza: The Holiday Killer. It's a year in review! So lets start with some very good news. I did get a "gift" from LadyGhost915 and Ghost915: My boots came in.... holy mackrel! These puppies are SWEET! I'd recommend these over Caboots anyday! I can start scaling the knee armor. My research into the realm of leather works for my belt has turn up a very positive lead! The Tandy Leather Company does sell a white paint for leather. It's acrylic based, and is hard as dragon scales when it dries. A few top coats of an Acrylic Lacquer Top coat (which they also sell) should keep the belt in tip top shape. The boxes that attach to the belt still need some work. The boxes will be bolted to the leather. More diagrams and pictures on how that will happen next year. Here's what's left and slated for next years to do list: 1. Bicep Armor - Molding and cast the parts 2. Forearm armor - Molding and casting parts 3. Hip Box - Modling and casting parts 4. Thermal Detonator housing - Molding and Casting parts 5. End Caps for Detonator - Molding and Casting parts 6. Knee armor - Construction, molding and casting parts 7. Shoulder Bell - RE-construction, molding and casting parts 8. Helmet - Rubies Modifications 9. Boot Holster 10. Scout Pistol 11. Chest and Back armor Have a great holiday, and see you next year! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arcturus1020 Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 Sorry to hear you're not well. Hope you get back on your feet soon and back at the belt and knee armor! See you at ACME & I'll bring my scout pistol so you can check it out. Have a Happy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 Yeah... I hope I feel better too! I hate being sick, and I hate even more missing a holiday...especially Christmas!!!! GAAAHHHH!!!!! More to come in the weeks ahead!! Just waiting for the Cova Paints to come in from Tandy. Thanks for that info!!! INVALUABLE!!!! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pean12 Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 Hey Frank, Good stuff man! Just one small suggestion on the pistol...DO IT IN RUBBER I would dearly love to get a rubber blaster so that I don't ever have to worry about it getting chipped, weighing down the boot, etc. and it would help differentiate your blaster from the resin ones out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks Paul! Okay, Troopers! Time for the first real acid test. After I got the boots from Ghost, my wife suggested I should post some pictures of what I look like with the jumpsuit and the soft armor parts. Not a bad idea! So she brought out the Star Wars Chronicles, we cleared a section in the basement, and set up a very rough photo studio. I had gotten some sharp critiques about my cummerbund from my postings on my personal website, and the garrison forum. Time for my brothers and sisters to let me know what needs improvement. And really, that's what this thread is all about, eh? Right off the top: The pouches are in the WRONG PLACE! They were attached to the cummerbund, and I still need to have them removed. The tan material is the leather I will be using to create my belt. Still needs to be sized, cut down and the webbing and clips added to the back. Please, I need your help! Thanks in advance... keep on posting! I know the bucket isn't soft armor ... but I didn't want to scare you people with my disturbing face. -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladyghost4459 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Yes the pouches could definitely use some work. The cummerbund height is alright. The cummerbund width is about 3 inches too wide. Your closure in the back should be about 2 inches from edge to topstitch. It just looks oversized when you have that much extra fabric in the back. I would trim that down a bit so that your overlap is only around 2 inches or so. The good thing is that the plastic armor does cover a lot of sins. The boots, gloves and flight suit look right on. You will make an impressive scout when you finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghst915 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Good job so far Frank...... Look over there get him..go go go stomp that ewok into the ground...behind the screen get him go go go Ewok stomping. I love seeing my boots on my costumers it so cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-7076 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 I'd use a broader groin flap - it looks a bit thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 I'd use a broader groin flap - it looks a bit thin. I'm going for the bikini look! Yeah.. that was the BIGGEST comment about my armor. That area should be bigger in comparison with the the Chronicle's photographs. Thanks for the critique! Good job so far Frank...... Look over there get him..go go go stomp that ewok into the ground...behind the screen get him go go go Ewok stomping. I love seeing my boots on my costumers it so cool. You have made me very happy with your boots, Ross!! Thanks! Yes the pouches could definitely use some work. The cummerbund height is alright. The cummerbund width is about 3 inches too wide. Your closure in the back should be about 2 inches from edge to topstitch. It just looks oversized when you have that much extra fabric in the back. I would trim that down a bit so that your overlap is only around 2 inches or so. The good thing is that the plastic armor does cover a lot of sins. The boots, gloves and flight suit look right on. You will make an impressive scout when you finish. I might get a new cummerbund... That with the groin flap area has been an area of contension. (not just Madphisto, but some of the MW Garrison have commented that it is too narrow for a guy my size. (rough 6'4"). Thanks Denise! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 Here's another pic we took eariler in the day, before we had to re-shoot. She realized that in the photos the belt in the right place but the cummerbund was too low. Might need a new cummerbund? -- Onward and upward, my Imperial Scouts!!! I've started the endcaps for the detonator today. I had been looking for PVC endcaps, but couldn't find the right one to properly fit the size of the sump pump hose. Let alone an endcap that was SOLID. Time to improvize. I found a collar with a coupling that was about the size I needed. I first removed the "grips" from the outside edges and the threading from the inside. I cut down a piece of flat PVC to fill in the hole in the middle, bonding it together with your standard plumber's PVC cement. After an hour, I started filling the gaps with Bondo. Sanded, then Primed looking for some trouble spots. Looks like I have a little more sanding and fitting on the topside of the cap. Tomorrow! I need to bring a sampler of the sump pump hose and see what diameter PVC pipe will fit in the openning. The diameter looks smaller than 1 - 1/2 inches. So I probably will need sometime on the lathe to cut the right diamter and then make the wall thin enough so that I can use a rivet to secure the endcap to the hose. I will mold the part afterwards. -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acrylikhan Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Thermal Detonator Parts: COMPLETE! Add a zip tie to steady the sump pump hose, and I'm all set! (and trime the hose down a little bit more...) I will be molding the endcap hopefully next week, and then perhaps three weeks later, the thigh box and the thermal detonator casing will be molded together. Painted white, and one piece will be officially done! -fk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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