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The Acrylikhan Armor Project Files


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More studying the pistol to get a feel for how the holster should fit around. I've decided to call this first piece of the holster that attaches to the boot "the rest," because the pistols "rests" or sits on this piece. The actual nub that the pistol rest on, I am calling the "heel." The second part I am calling the "wrap" as this part wraps around the pistol to hold it in place on the rest.

 

pistol26.jpg

 

The Wrap inserts into the Heel, on the front facing edge of the Heel.

 

pistol27.jpg

 

This area has to be taller than the pistol's height to accommodate the thickness of the plastic of the Wrap piece. Otherwise, there will not be enough room for it, and the pistol will not sit right.

 

pistol23.jpg

 

I started sanding out the bondo layers and decided to put an extra thick coating on the Heel again.

 

pistol24.jpg

 

The pistol is in it's place, and checked out my height.

 

pistol25.jpg

 

Looking down the pistol I think I have plenty of room for the Wrap piece. Once the holster "Rest" part is vac-formed, the thickness of the plastic will increase the height of this wall, but not by much. It should be tall enough to let a .125" thick plastic sheet fit in the space with a little room to spare.

 

I probably won't have my holster looking exactly like the reference shots I have, but it will be close. More sanding tomorrow and a final check before I put a protective coating on this forming buck. Then, onto stylin' the Wrap.

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The final sanding is complete. I've added some air escape holes to help pull the plastic down into the corners.

 

pistol28.jpg

 

A perfect sculpt. Fits the holdout blaster like a glove... uh... Holster!!

 

pistol29.jpg

 

Plenty of room for plastic to insert into the "heel." If it turns out to be too much, I can either take material off the buck, or add a shim inside so that the pistol sits tight.

 

pistol30.jpg

 

Time to start construction on the "wrap." The supplies needed are some pieces of cardboard, the pistol, and the buck.

 

pistol37.jpg

 

Set the pistol on the buck, and then set a piece of cardboard on the bottom of the buck. Take a pen or a fine point marker and try to follow the contour of the pistol and the buck. There be several of these to get the weird curve that wraps around the pistol, and into heel. It's tricky business, but this prep work will help take some of the guess work out of the sculpt.

 

pistol31.jpg

 

Take the tracing and cut out the negative bits. There's still some fine tuning, but that easy.

 

pistol32.jpg

 

These cardboard cut-outs will be stencils to trace onto the sculpting foam, and then cut out. They will then be glued together, and then frosted with bondo.

 

pistol33.jpg

 

I coated the base of the holster buck with a high heat urethane coating to protect it and hopefully extend it's life. More cut out fun over the next couple of days.

 

pistol34.jpg

 

pistol35.jpg

 

pistol36.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

When we left our story last time, the main part of the boot holster forming buck had been completed. Looks good, and fits nicely!

 

pistol38.jpg

 

The next step was to make "stencils," outlining the space that the buck for the second portion of the holster was supposed to look. The simpler the better. The details will emerge later.

 

pistol39.jpg

 

After getting the placementof the stencil cards taped into position, time for a test fit to see if the pistol will fit in the bounding area.

 

pistol40.jpg

 

pistol41.jpg

 

pistol42.jpg

 

It's kind of funny how we only need this very small area. I transfer the stencil pattern to an MDF board and cut it out.

 

pistol43.jpg

 

And then repeat...

 

pistol44.jpg

 

I originally was going to use RenFoam as I did with the base of the boot holster... but the foam I had was needed for another project. MDF will do nicely. The next part is finishing the cuts, and then start the glue up. This is very similar to the knee armor vac-buck I did almost a year ago. A similar method will be used here. Instead of using bondo or drywall compound to seal the edges after all the cutting and sanding, I will be using a sprayable urethane epoxy, followed by a high heat paint treatment.

 

Good to be back... and I will post more as it comes available.

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heh-heh... thanks guys! Now, if you can find me a can opener to get a few more hours in the day, I think I could make some REAL progress.

 

I started the glue up of the cut sections today at work. FINALLY! Even if I get this piece finished, I have to fix my vac-forming machine. We had a vac job for a client and we blew out the heating coils. I am modding the oven so that the plastic can sag more. I should be able to work with 1/8th-inch and possibly 3/16" plastics without them resting onto the heating coils. I also thinking of making improvements to the plastic holder too. So... even if this gets finished, the table needs its repairs, and upgrades.

 

I should have some pictures tomorrow... or at least by the weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Such a busy month, and not on projects! Just a little smidge of work to report this time around.

 

I have continued working on the buck for the Biker Scout holster. I completed the last few cuts and started the glue up. It didn't go as smoothly as I thought it would. I used too much wood glue. One of the slices slipped during clamping and I couldn't fix it. I will sand the offending slice down and patch any gaps. Then we'll take another look, and take the next step at refining, and adding details.

 

pistol45.jpg

 

pistol46.jpg

 

pistol47.jpg

 

pistol48.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Holy Nest of Gandarcs! Jim!!!! I haven't seen you in a long time! Yeah... progress has been slow, as other things have eaten through my time. But I will have you know, work on the pistol buck has continued, but I have had to make adjustments to the vacu-fomring machine. It seems it's lost its edge, and heating ability has suffered from heavy industrial and model making use.

 

I am hoping this coming week will give me a chance to get more work done on the holster. Then its time to tackle the chest armor... and the tank. June and July should be wicked cool, if time allows.

 

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Holy Nest of Gandarcs! Jim!!!! I haven't seen you in a long time! Yeah... progress has been slow, as other things have eaten through my time. But I will have you know, work on the pistol buck has continued, but I have had to make adjustments to the vacu-fomring machine. It seems it's lost its edge, and heating ability has suffered from heavy industrial and model making use.

 

I am hoping this coming week will give me a chance to get more work done on the holster. Then its time to tackle the chest armor... and the tank. June and July should be wicked cool, if time allows.

 

Shhhh. You'll blow my cover.

If you're headed to Acme this weekend, I'll be there working on my TK helmet and adding some fans to my Vader mask for the July 4th parade this year. It's gonna be a hot one!

 

The holster is coming out really well, and I'm looking forward to see how the armor and back tank turn out, which I'm sure will look absolutely fantastic given with what you've accomplished so far on this costume. You almost have enough material to write a book!

 

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  • 1 month later...

Not much progress made this past month. I have been crazy-go-nuts busy! I hate that. It cuts into my play time.

 

Okay, still working on the frickin' holster:

 

pistol49.jpg

 

So I got all the MDF glued together. Okay that was the last posting... what have we done today? Some of the boards slipped up a bit during the clamping progress so I had to work a little frontier medicine to fix it. I sanded down the offending board and then checked out where the slippage had left a canyon on the other side of the planet. I mean, left a canyon on the forming buck. Like I said, crazy-go-nuts busy. My brain is fried.

 

Once the bondo sets, I will continue to give it a smooth sanding and then determine where the greeblie goes on the front. Time to dig up the screen shots. After that, another quick check to make sure that I have the buck at the correct size. Now I did take card board cut outs to get that 3-D space. There is a chance that in my elated giddiness to get this project re-started, I may have over looked a specific height requirement. That is, that the buck will have enough plastic to crimp and fold a section to attach it to the first part of the holster. These things can and do happen. A little double checking along the way can severely cut these head-banging-against-the-wall instances.

 

After we double check the heights, add the greeblies, and double check the heights and the reference photos, I'll take it to work and give it a nice coat of urethane epoxy. This will help preserve the buck in case I need an extra, and give it a lot more heat resistance.

 

When will we do a test pull you ask? Not for a while... maybe at least another month or two. The vacu-forming table I build kicked the bucket earlier this spring. We had tons of parts to pull, and the nichrome wire for the heating coils gave out. The coils have been replaced. I on the other hand am ready for some improvements that will help with not only this project, but other ones in the future. These improvements include, two zone heating, a deeper oven, and a better plastic holding frame.

 

Also, I have been working on an enhanced version of my shoulder armor. Loosetoon gave me some good perspectives on what the shoulder should look like given my size. That is in the works, and I am tackling that one.

 

Then the chest armor pursuits begins. I am hoping more progress will come in the next few days. We'll see if I can make the time. Thanks for watching.

 

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  • 1 month later...
I can move it for you if you'd prefer?

 

Nah. Close it. I haven't worked on the armor in at least a month (maybe more). So much personal stuff going on that its just not progressing like it used to. I could always open a new thread if I ever re-start the project, if that's not breaking the rules.

 

Declare it closed, my friend!

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  • 4 weeks later...

The bucks for the boot holster are now complete. I just need to make a few blocks for the sides so the plastic flows nicely over it. It's finally done! (After HOW many freakin' months???) I will be applying a layer of urethane epoxy tomorrow to add another layer of durability. Then its into temporary storage... as the forming table is under going modifications... which I hope will be done soon.

 

pistol50.jpg

 

pistol51.jpg

 

Once it's formed, I'll post the assembly... and then attach it to the boot. But right now, I am very satisfied.

 

So what's next? CHEST ARMOR! (and re-working the shoulder bells).

 

The last picture I posted I got some great feedback about the shoulder bells being too small for a guy my size. Since I have already made the buck, modification should be very quick. I'll start working on that very soon and post the results.

 

Along with the chest armor, I am working on the back tank. I can start cutting some of the MDF in the next day or two for the first couple of inches before I will need to have the back armor completed before going forward with this particular part. But who knows? Once I start cuttin' and assembling the pieces, ideas may flow, and directions may change. Moving ahead...

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pistol53.jpg

 

pistol54.jpg

 

The primer's on, and then a nice urethane coat in the morning.

 

The chest armor is going to take some time, and I will have to work on the back and the front at the same time to make sure that they match up, and both are correct.

 

chestarmor1.jpg

 

I am getting the MDF ready for cutting. I am going to try something new with the glue up process. Wood dowel rods to help center the pieces better than my usually slapping a coat of wood glue and clamp it. They're some prayer involved that they won't slip too much from each other while the glue sets. It's amazing what goes through the mind when you have process work going on at the job. Inspiration that is a few years late. I'll still take it!

 

I have set a new goal completion date so that I can get approval. Hopefully, I'll keep at for the remainder of this year. So begins the final chapters.... three pieces worked on together in concert with each. Should be fun, interesting, and a chance to sever a finger in the process.

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Neither can I! How long has it been??!!

 

So lets keep going.

 

I started the work on the back tank, as I am still getting measurements for the torso armor.

 

I already had the template for quite some time now.

 

tank1.jpg

 

Quick router work -

 

tank2.jpg

 

And a mock up.

 

tank3.jpg

 

tank4.jpg

 

There's a lot more shaping to do. The tank tapers at the sides, and gently down the back. But for now, its a start. More developments a little later.

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  • 2 weeks later...
woh !! very good work !!! :blink:

 

Thanks! It's been a LLLLOOOOONNNNNGGGGG four years getting this thing scratch built. I am definitely seeing more progress, and trying to get the bucks together for the chest armor. I wish I could get it done quicker, but duty calls, and time is just hard top get a hold of.

 

I should be making another update in a week or two. Progress has been a couple hours a night, thinking.

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  • 6 months later...

The chest armor planning stages are in the works. Instead of trying to free form sculpt the buck from MDF, I've switched gears at the advice from several entities of my Inner Circle.

 

I will be using plaster bandages to make a sculpting base for the chest and back armor pieces. This way, there will be a lot less guessing, and a little more certainty that I've sculpted the piece to my chest size. The tank should still be progressing with the MDF cut outs I've already made. They will need some serious tweaking to get them screen accurate, and It might be a little bit LONGER to accommodate my orangutan-like features. This will also be a great time to re-do my shoulder bells. They are very inaccurate and need to be much larger.

 

So here's what they look like:

 

chest1.jpg

 

I was able to get the rolls in 3 yard lengths. I ordered a box of 12 from a Medical Supply shop. It should be enough to make a hollow cast of my chest. I chose the Fast setting plaster bandages rather than the very fast setting type. Both will still need overnight to fully harden.

 

The procedure is very simple. You will need someone to help out with this, they will be applying the wet plaster bandages to you. Get a tight form fitting t-shirt. You should not have to worry about using vaseline on your chest neck and arms. If you are exceptionally hairy (as nature intended for some of us, it might not be a bad idea to do it for the sake of averting painful tear outs). First step will be to cut some of the bandages down into more manageable lengths... six inches to 1 foot for areas for use around the shoulders and neck, and longer lengths to wrap around the torso proper. Use a cloth tape measure to get some ideas on the lengths you'll need.

 

Stand straight, and don't be afraid to let your gut hang out... try to stand as natural as possible, with your arms at your sides, slightly away from your body so that your helper can apply the plaster bandages onto the t-shirt.

 

Start with the shoulders, outside working your way toward the neck, overlapping sections of bandages as you go... 1/2" to 3/4" overlap should be enough to keep everything secure. Use smaller pieces to get around the neck. After the shoulders and neck are complete, start wrapping down the chest and back overlapping as you go! Keeping it as flush as possible to the body. Depending on how far you want to go, you can probably stop at the end of the t-shirt, or at the navel. This should be good point of reference where all the pieces are lying on your body. It will help with sculpting the correct proportions of the armor.

 

There is NO right or wrong way to apply the bandages, and don't worry about it looking too angled. DO try to get it as smooth and flat to the contour of the body. Make sure the model (you!) doesn't move around too much while the bandages are applyied. I.E. - skip the 64 oz uber-cola, or six pack of beer until AFTER everything is done.

 

I think all you will need to do initially is two layers on the t-shirt, for rigidity. After you are finished, and the bandages have sufficiently hardened... which really isn't long...thirty minutes at the most after the last bandages have been applied. Get a pair of heavy duty scissors, and start cutting from one of the sides. CUT BOTH THE SHIRT AND THE BANDAGES and not skin.... Cut up from the bottom to the arm pit... then cut from the bottom side of the sleeve to the armpit. Next cut from the top side of the sleeve to the neck. Now, your helper should help loosen cast's grip on your skin, and pull you out from the side.

 

After you are free, patch the cut with small strips ASAP! If you'd like, let it set while you clean up and then add another layer of bandages to smooth and strengthen the outer surface. You now have a sculpting form of your own torso! :)

 

After you let is set overnight... or a couple of days, use rigid expanding foam and pieces of wood/ballast on the interior to reinforce the base.

 

Now obviously, there are MANY ways of accomplishing what I'm planning to do here. I've heard of people using old diving suits that they vaselined up to get the plaster off. I know someone how has a duct-tape vest they made so the plaster doesn't stick to it, and peels right off. There are many many ways to do this. So if you want to try this out, experiment!

 

I will be mostly using bondo and some urethane foams to sculpt the armor parts. After they are complete, I will be sealing them with a special urethane based paint, and then cutting them in half for use on my vac-forming machine. This should help me avoid any weird moisture problems. If water gets trapped under the hot plastic and the buck, you can get weird blisters, and textures.

 

I know this post is more of a heavy read, but once I finish my research I will re-post new information, and DIAGRAMS! I am hoping to start this closer to the end of April. Until then, I have a few other things that need to be completed before this project can be fully resurrected. Of Course, I have modified my vac-forming machine, and I still need to alter the plastic holding rig, and test the new oven. It will be an interesting month I hope. I doubt this will be ready before the July 4th. We'll just have to wait and see.

 

New postings in a week... or sooner. Have a great week everyone!

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Ok, I finally got a chance to sit down with some guys and figured out how to do this chest sculpting form.... I have to revise a few things that I had COMPLETELY for gotten.

 

1. You can do this form on bare skin. If you do, HEAVY vaseline your skin... otherwise you will know pain. BE WARNED! :lol:

 

2. If you decide to use form fitting t-shirt, duct tape it up first! (forgot that part last time.) The plaster won't stick to the duct tape.

 

3. It will take more than two layers... maybe four. A box of 12 3 yard x 3" rolls, will probably be completely used. But this is also dependent on your physical size. I am tall, and wide... maybe a box and a half for me?

 

4. Guess what? You don't cut the plaster!! What you do is you leave a nice gap on one side while you are applying the bandages. That it your exit, and you bridge it together after you get it off your body. You would probably destroy your scissors if you try cutting the cast. Unless, you have one of those cast cutting saws that won't cut skin.

 

5. The T-shirt with the duct tape on it is the ONLY thing you cut with scissors. And essentially its thrown away after wards. SO the key is to go to the dollar store and get cheap cotton (maybe one size smaller than you need) t-shirts.

 

:(

 

It nice to have a long long talk with friends over dinner and beers and discussing these things. Ya learn a lot, and find out different ways of doing things. I guess in the meantime (as I wait for work to simmer down), I could start some drawings and re-write this procedure.... ;)

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