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TB-25674 (Ghost40) Lancer Request (APPROVED)


Ghost40

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TB-25674 (Ghost40) officially requesting Lancer approval.

This has been a build I've always wanted to do. Call it my dream costume since RoTJ. When they showed back up in the Mandalorian, that was it. I had to do it. This forum and the people here have been quite a bit of help to me. So to push myself further, here is my request!

Personal Information
Name: David Knife
TB-25674
Old Line Garrison

Parts:
Helmet: Kropserkel
Armor: Studio Creations
Tie flight suit: Wampa Wear
Cumberbund: member here
Pouches: Naomi Cook (Amion Costumes)
Gloves: Wampa Wear
Boots: King Show / Forum tutorial / me
Blaster: Resin / Luna

Full

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Helmet - Kropserkel

This was assembled by a member in the FB groups. It is a cap and back design, I went the optional route of not filling the seam. The bolts are 3M at 22mm. The grey part of the snout is cut from ABS and glued in. The front snout is separate and cast by Ukswrath with the mic. The lens is black.

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Armor - Studio Creations, my assembly
The side strapping on the chest is the 1.5" and fills the opening. The tank greeblie is attached using a silver rivet per the level II CRLs.

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The shoulders, biceps, forearms, and knees are all strapped with 3/4" ribbed elastic

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The ABS belt is connected to the back via a single rivet. It includes the four parachute buckles with the two rear ones reversed (shown in the full body photos). The drop box straps are not the polypro but a white webbing as stated “Optional: Drop box straps are white polypro.” in the CRLs for level II.

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Cumberbund - Forum member, pouched by Amino Costumes
The cumberbund is made from a smooth fabric, some sort of cotton but I don't know the name. The pouches are made from duck cloth. There is a stitch down the middle of the back, velcro fastener.

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The gloves are from Wampa Wear, I chose to lease the clips on.

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The boots were made from King Shows work boots, and marine vinyl. Using a tutorial here on the Pathfinder forums from Cheesewhoopy. Slightly modified the dogbone length so it overlaps the soles and the proper width of the toe strip.

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The flight suit is a TIE pilot suit from Wampa Wear, the neck seal was from Trooperbay. And a generic balacava.

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The blaster is a resin cast from Luna Armorworks painted by myself

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Thank you for your Lancer application. The team has started their review and will get back to you with any comments.

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Can you provide us with the following images:

  • Closeup of the Thermal Detonator so that we can see the greeble details as well as the end caps
  • Full closeup image of the Tank Topper greeble
  • Blaster front and rear images
  • Measurements of Cummerbund ribs
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4 minutes ago, Ghost40 said:

Sorry about that, here ya go!

No problem. Thanks for the quick update. I kept editing my post, so I'm not sure if you saw the blaster and bund image request as well. 

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Here are the review team's findings:

 

Pretty solid build and fitting, there are a few key areas that you will need to sort out, the main being the weathering. 

Weathering

  • While your amount of weathering is good, you'll want to go for a more smoothed out airbrushed look instead of how it currently is, being a bit blotchy. There are visible watermarks on the Thermal Detonator which will need to be fixed but it's a good example of what we've noticed. The screen-used armor has a "dusty" look to it, less muddy.

Helmet

  • The visor edge will need to be trimmed a bit more. The lip should be should be closer to about 3/8 inch wide (see image below)

Belt

  • The Drop Boxes will need to come up. The bottoms of each Drop Box should be even with the bottom of the Cod. (see screen-used armor image below)

Boots

  • Soles appear to be two-tone. The upper sole will need to be painted so that it appears to be the same color as the lower sole.

 

Rough idea of what to trim on visor

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Screen-used Armor

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Awesome input! And I really appreciate the help. I'll get in these and get back here in about a week.

What will need to be resubmitted in terms of photos?

And as far as weathering goes, can I assume I should remove as much of the old weathering as possible?

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We're always here to help. 

As far as images, we'll need full body images again to make sure the weathering is correct and any closeups of the boot soles and visor. If we can't see enough details from those pics we'll let you know. 

I would suggest removing as much of the original weathering first but don't worry about getting every knook and cranny as it will covered by the new weathering. 

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3 minutes ago, MrPoopie said:

We're always here to help. 

As far as images, we'll need full body images again to make sure the weathering is correct and any closeups of the boot soles and visor. If we can't see enough details from those pics we'll let you know. 

I would suggest removing as much of the original weathering first but don't worry about getting every knook and cranny as it will covered by the new weathering. 

Awesome, thanks again!

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I dont want to gum up the thread with a lot of questions, but I do like the "softer" look of the weathering. And not too bad for my first airbrush run. How does this weathering sit with you guys/gals? Just want to ask before I do everythingJgG72jl.jpg

 

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Definitely a step in the right direction. If you can "rough" it up a but so that it looks sandblasted and not as smooth that would be ideal. You can see how the CRL image has the same softer airbrushed look underneath but also with some abrasion the surface. You should be able to achieve this affect by dabbing the paint after airbrushing but before it's totally dry.

 

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19 minutes ago, MrPoopie said:

Definitely a step in the right direction. If you can "rough" it up a but so that it looks sandblasted and not as smooth that would be ideal. You can see how the CRL image has the same softer airbrushed look underneath but also with some abrasion the surface. You should be able to achieve this affect by dabbing the paint after airbrushing but before it's totally dry.

 

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sweet tip! I was thinking start with a super light coat for shading, then dry brushing

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14 minutes ago, Ghost40 said:

how is the color?

Maybe add a touch of yellow and little less red but it's pretty close.

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Alright, corrections made (hopefully, fingers crossed!)

Trimmed down the faceplate plate visor

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Painted the soles of the boot to a single color

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Closeups of the thermal detonator showing water marks removed and weathered

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And full body with new weathering. I removed as much of the old weathering as I could. Left a few key places in the nooks and crannies. Then I airbrushed basic accents and dry-brushed with the same color to get more of a dusty, sand blasted look. 

The photos also show the waist boxes raised to meet the bottom of the cod piece. 

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Thank you for the update. We'll go through these soon and get back to you.

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This is optional but for ease of trooping you may want to put a strap on the inside of the right boot to help hold it up a bit. The way you have it now is actually proper and how the screen-used Scouts look but the floppy holster can be annoying as well as more prone to having a blaster fall out. Like I said, this is totally optional and your preference.

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1 minute ago, MrPoopie said:

This is optional but for ease of trooping you may want to put a strap on the inside of the right boot to help hold it up a bit. The way you have it now is actually proper and how the screen-used Scouts look but the floppy holster can be annoying as well as more prone to having a blaster fall out. Like I said, this is totally optional and your preference.

I actually have a strap on the inside, and it popped off the rivet when I caught the holster on the stairs lol. I will be adding something more robust. I added a small shim to the inside of the holster to add a little friction to the blaster. But I think the inside strap and shim will work great together. Thanks!

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Hey hey, just wanted to reach out to see if the approval team needed any thing from this side. I know its only been a day, but you know, eager beaver! Thanks!

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