First Build - ROTJ Bikerscout

[wide]

Hey,

after wanting to build a biker scout for years I am finally starting. I want to try and make most of it myself. Really excited for the build even if I have never worked with plastic before and being a bit intimidated by the Idea that I could easily break/ruin parts.

I have an Altmanns Helmet that I bought 5 years ago, but never gotten around to actually start.

I have contacted CFO/Skunky and ordered a Set of Armor from him. Even though I already have a helmet, I wanted to see if I would enjoy building the helmet as well, so I also ordered a helmet kit from him.

After researching getting the EC-17 printed, I don't have a 3D Printer, and comparing prices and the process I have decided to order a blaster from blasterworks. Especially since I like the idea of it already having a magnet.

Would like to build a rifle as well, and maybe even going to try and making the parts out of metal, as I could use a lot of tools from my workplace for that. Also really liked Jorge's Build of the DLT19 Nevertheless, that is something I will look into later as I want to prioritize the rest of the costume.

 

I wanted to try to sew the soft parts by myself, or with the help of friends as my sewing skills are ... subpar 😅

For the gloves I thought of going with WampaWear or rather the replica that was posted by plagu3is

 

Currently I'm looking into options for the boots and the overall/coverall and was hoping I could find some help with that here.

Since the original shoes seem to be hard to find, I thought of finding a good replacement and cutting the soles myself.

Maybe someone from europe, or possibly even germany, could point me in a good direction for shoes/boots that are available here?

 

Similarily I am looking at overalls/coveralls right now. I usually don't like to order clothes online, as I prefer seeing if they fit beforehand. So I guess my best bet would probably a work wear shop, right?

And looking at the CRL and other builds here on this forum it seemed to me, that any black overall would work as long as I take of the visible pockets that one might have, is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any input. I am already amazed by being able to use this forum as a resource in helping me figuring out this build!

 

Cheers,

Stefan

[FogOut]

Hello Stefan,

It took me sometime too to join the pathfinder. I look forward to your build. As for the boots, I got mine from Chef Creations. I also manage to make one for my son. I would say it’s not hard, it’s doable and you ll need to find someone with a sewing machine capable of sewing thick material. I.e the marine vinyl.
Attached is a photo of pair I made for my son.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chopper]

Greetings Stefan, it seems like you're on the right track.

Yes, any black coverall would work, as long as you make the required adjustments, such a removing the pockets, etc.

@OnkelPaschulke would you be willing to help Stefan with locating some base boots and coveralls that could be purchased locally?

If you want super accurate soles, there's also CrowProps, who makes a biker scout underboot using the Sierra style sole. He is in South America and I am not sure what shipping would be to Germany, but he's pretty responsive to email and facebook messages I you want to ask.

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-long-boots-with-accurate-soles-white-black

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

[wide]

23 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Greetings Stefan, it seems like you're on the right track.

Yes, any black coverall would work, as long as you make the required adjustments, such a removing the pockets, etc.

@OnkelPaschulke would you be willing to help Stefan with locating some base boots and coveralls that could be purchased locally?

If you want super accurate soles, there's also CrowProps, who makes a biker scout underboot using the Sierra style sole. He is in South America and I am not sure what shipping would be to Germany, but he's pretty responsive to email and facebook messages I you want to ask.

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-long-boots-with-accurate-soles-white-black

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

Hey,

thank you very much for this! I knew about crowprops, but didn't see that they were selling these base boots. Maybe I should've looked closer when I was looking at their complete scout boots 😅

That is definetly an option. However, I thought that I might actually enjoy cutting soles with an exacto knife into the right form. I saw a build here on the forums doing that.

Do you think one can be as accurate in going with that method as the boots you linked?

 

31 minutes ago, FogOut said:

Hello Stefan,

It took me sometime too to join the pathfinder. I look forward to your build. As for the boots, I got mine from Chef Creations. I also manage to make one for my son. I would say it’s not hard, it’s doable and you ll need to find someone with a sewing machine capable of sewing thick material. I.e the marine vinyl.
Attached is a photo of pair I made for my son.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Thank you for the input

I know a couple of people with sewing machines, and I think one of them has one that is capable of sewing leather. I had hoped that they would be patient enough to re-introduce me into how to use a sewing machine properly. I think I might just be out of my depth when it comes to the cummerbund and flak vest.

cheers,

Stefan

 

[Hask]

I got my boots from Chef too. He is in the UK and has great prices.

[Chopper]

1 hour ago, wide said:

Hey,

thank you very much for this! I knew about crowprops, but didn't see that they were selling these base boots. Maybe I should've looked closer when I was looking at their complete scout boots 😅

That is definetly an option. However, I thought that I might actually enjoy cutting soles with an exacto knife into the right form. I saw a build here on the forums doing that.

Do you think one can be as accurate in going with that method as the boots you linked?

I've seen people get pretty close when carving their boots, so if that's the way that you want to go, then it's definitely possible. It's just a matter of skill and patience and depends on how much time you want to put into that specific aspect of the costume.

[Aradun]

Hey Stefan, you can definitely do a cummerbund, cod, and vest, and your own boots too once you find a decent base boot to work off. I started my journey to being a scout with zero experience using a sewing machine and I was not only able to succeed in becoming a scout by making my own soft parts, but was also able to achieve Lancer status with the detachment after my initial approval with the Legion due mainly to the resources available here and the support and encouragement of the armory team.

As you know people who have sewing machines and who know how to sew, you’ll have access to help if you have questions. Of course the armorers here will be an excellent resource to you as well. You won’t need a special sewing machine to sew the boot vinyl or suede riding patches, just a thicker needle in the machine.

Check out the tutorials below to get a sense of what is involved with making your own soft goods:

Boots -
http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

Undersuit Mods-
http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/

Cummerbund-
http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22433-cummerbund-tutorial-sort-of/

Pouches-
http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions-and-patterns/

Vest-
http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/12485-build-your-own-vest-wpictures/

I have some detailed instructions in my build thread, as well as some patterns. Just note that you’ll likely need to modify patterns and such to better fit your size. Be sure to check out other’s build threads as well. There’s great info and tips from builders and the armorers in those WIPs.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/

Great choice in armor, EC-17 and gloves. You’re off to a great start! Be sure to post up any questions you may have as you work on your build. We’re here to help you succeed!

[Retrofire]

Hi Stefan! You're already getting excellent advice the only thing I can add is if you do choose to sew your boots would be to get denim needles which have a thicker shank than a standard needle for your machine.

Here's a link to see what they look like. You'll want to make sure they are compatible to your machine.

https://smile.amazon.com/Singer-75467-Sewing-Machine-Needles/dp/B004IHNDSW/ref=sr_1_5?crid=24DD2HJAC6FDB&keywords=denim%2Bsewing%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bsewing%2Bmachine&qid=1674412062&sprefix=denim%2Bsewing%2Bneedles%2Caps%2C832&sr=8-5&th=1

Best to you and best of luck with your build!

[FogOut]

I got my boots from Chef too. He is in the UK and has great prices.

I totally agree with you on chef. He tutored me along when I started work on my sons boots. I send him photos at the end of the day on my progress and he ll advice me on what I should do to improve on it or what’s the next steps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OnkelPaschulke]

Hi Stefan,

I had some days off so these are the base boots and the vinyl I used to build my own ones.

Boots

Vinyl

If you have any further questions. Hit me up woth a PM.

Cheers

 

[wide]

Hello together,

I'm simply astonished with all the replies, advice and encouragement. Thank you all a lot!

I looked into shipping costs from crowprops and that adds up to 150$ for the base boot. Really like that boot, but since I like the Idea of cutting the soles myself ill might end up with the ones linked by @OnkelPaschulke. Thank you for that! Also thank you for offering help. I sent you a PM

I tried my local workwear shop today since I got off of work a bit earlier, but it was a bust. The Overall they had were either way too small or comically large. In addition, they only had overalls with a very visible zipper. After checking the CRL again I saw that it should not be visible.

A bit bummed about that, as I was really hoping that I could try one on before buying it/not ordering it online. Especially since the options online are not the greatest. I might even end up just ordering the redkap suite from the US that most of the WIP Threads I read seem to be using.

Meeting a friend tomorrow that is very good at sewing and will see if he's up to tutoring me along the way.

Thank you all again!

Cheers,

Stefan

 

[Aradun]

Where was this zipper located? Keep in mind that if it was the main zipper going up from the groin to the neck that it won’t be visible when in costume, as it will be covered over by the flak jacket, cummerbund and cod, not to mention the armor.

As for ordering a RedKap from the US, they do tend to run a bit small in the length of the torso. Some compensate by ordering their “long” version which gives a little more length in the torso making it easier to get in and out of but you may need to do some extra hemming of the legs.

I have a Kolossus and a RedKap and find the Kolossus a more comfortable suit and truer to size. If you’re concerned about fit, I recommend exhausting local resources before ordering anything from overseas. Arne might be able to provide you with some local sources to check out.

[wide]

@AradunUnfortunately the Zipper was going all the way to the collar.

However, I looked up a lot of local work wear stores and found one that looked promising, and it was!

Also ordered the boots @OnkelPaschulkelinked. Thanks again!

I hope its okay to ask a few stupid questions about it?

Pictures are below. Sorry for the spots on them. Didnt realize our hallway mirror was that dirty when taking the pictures 😅

The general fit seems to be okay but I might hem in the legs and arms a bit so they are a little less wide.

Is the partially visible button a problem if i go for an open collar instead of a mandarin one? Haven't decided yet which way to go, but it seems to me that a mandarin collar means more warmth?

Also do i need to get rid of the stitching on the thigh?

And finally do the side pockets need to be sewn shut?

 

[BikerScout007]

I wouldn't worry about any of that stuff.   At least not until you've suited up and seen what details are concealed by your armor.  Particularly the side pockets.  I left mine as is, because with everything on, you can't see them.   And on a troop you're going to want pockets!

The original flight suits had seams on it as well.  Most of them are obscured by the quality of the film used in 1983

[wide]

43 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

I wouldn't worry about any of that stuff.   At least not until you've suited up and seen what details are concealed by your armor.  Particularly the side pockets.  I left mine as is, because with everything on, you can't see them.   And on a troop you're going to want pockets!

The original flight suits had seams on it as well.  Most of them are obscured by the quality of the film used in 1983

Thanks a lot for the quick feedback!

That means I can start and get rid of all the unnecesary pocket in the chest and arm region

[BikerScout007]

8 minutes ago, wide said:

Thanks a lot for the quick feedback!

That means I can start and get rid of all the unnecesary pocket in the chest and arm region

Well remember, chest pockets will most likely be concealed by the vest, cummerbund and armor.  No need making unnecessary holes if you don't have to.  

[wide]

Thanks @BikerScout007 for the advice. I simply took off the one arm pocket and left it at that. Might take off the chest pockets, or the zippers if they are uncomfortable/annoy me once the flak vest and chest is done.

I worked on my boots to get them in the right pattern. These were the ones I took as template/modell:

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/20851-reference-pics-of-the-inter-sierra-sneakers/#comment-190181

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23654-happy-foresting-from-germany/

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

If anyone likes my pattern and wants to repeat it: here are some pictures of the outlined and cut pattern. Fun thing to do, screwed up the heel part a bit, but I think it is not really noticeable from afar. Will also add elastic laces once the second shoe is cut. Got the idea from another WIP Thread and really liked it!

Cut out Patterns:

Could someone make an estimate if this pattern would work for level 2?

In the meantime my blasterworks EC-17 arrived and it is beautiful! Thanks again jfencl1 !

Aaand a big brown box from the UK arrived! The Armor and Helmet Parts from sskunky. I am mesmerized, but also intimitaded a little of the work thats ahead of me

Will probably start with the knee pads so I can better work on the size of the riding patches and the shafts of the boots.

 

[OnkelPaschulke]

Looking good so far. I would get rid of this little notches on top of the sole.

[wide]

On 2/8/2023 at 7:51 PM, OnkelPaschulke said:

Looking good so far. I would get rid of this little notches on top of the sole.

Thank you for the input! After looking at your WIP Thread and seeing where you cut I applied it to my boots. That was not only  very satisfying to do but I think they look much better now!

Also I have a quick question about glue: After going through multiple WIP threads I come upon E6000 frequently and see that people use this for various purposes like their boots. Does it also work with the ABS plastic? So could I also use it when gluing the helmet or on other parts of the armor, like enforcing knees with extra ABS so theres less stress through the rivets? Or would a different type of glue be better?

I mean yes, the labeling says it will glue plastics, but I thought asking for real practical experience cant hurt

[Aradun]

E6000 is fine to use on ABS and carries the added benefit of being flexible, which means if you need to separate the pieces later on to make an adjustment, it’s much easier to do. Contact cement (CA) glue is very difficult to separate or adjust once it has dried. In either case use a clamp when possible to create a tight bond between the pieces.

[Chopper]

2 hours ago, wide said:

Also I have a quick question about glue: After going through multiple WIP threads I come upon E6000 frequently and see that people use this for various purposes like their boots. Does it also work with the ABS plastic? So could I also use it when gluing the helmet or on other parts of the armor, like enforcing knees with extra ABS so theres less stress through the rivets? Or would a different type of glue be better?

I mean yes, the labeling says it will glue plastics, but I thought asking for real practical experience cant hurt

Will E6000 work on plastic? Yes. E6000 works well for gluing two materials that won't bond well, or things that you might need to slightly reposition, like resin greeblies on plastic.

For the purpose you're talking about though, which is ABS on ABS reinforcement, I wouldn't use E6000. Ideally you want the plastic to bond to itself. I would try and find some ABS cement at the hardware store for a better, more permanent bond.

I don't know what the equivalent is in Germany, (@OnkelPaschulke do you know?) but this is what we use in the states:

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/solvents-and-cements/pvc-cement/4039426?store=16714&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7xIYDsjId-sKMJN1Qui0j4xglynuJHw6-txn77tpJHbl5dXiATsadBoClPAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[OnkelPaschulke]

Puhh never seen something like this here... I use this one for glueing ABS parts together.

[wide]

On 2/12/2023 at 6:12 PM, Chopper said:

Will E6000 work on plastic? Yes. E6000 works well for gluing two materials that won't bond well, or things that you might need to slightly reposition, like resin greeblies on plastic.

For the purpose you're talking about though, which is ABS on ABS reinforcement, I wouldn't use E6000. Ideally you want the plastic to bond to itself. I would try and find some ABS cement at the hardware store for a better, more permanent bond.

I don't know what the equivalent is in Germany, (@OnkelPaschulke do you know?) but this is what we use in the states:

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/solvents-and-cements/pvc-cement/4039426?store=16714&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7xIYDsjId-sKMJN1Qui0j4xglynuJHw6-txn77tpJHbl5dXiATsadBoClPAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

23 hours ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

Puhh never seen something like this here... I use this one for glueing ABS parts together.

Thank you both! Just ordered both the E6000 and the Uhu hardplastic glue.

Will be able to borrow my brothers dremel the coming weekend when I see him, which means I can start with the knee pads, boots and riding patches as soon as the glue arrives

[Harbinger]

Make sure to get the thin cut discs!

[wide]

Finally gotten around to try myself at trimming. Startet with the knee pads.

This is how they looked before trimming:

Looking at the CRL and Striders Post (http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/) I pencilled the outlines.

And started the process of cutting them. I tried myself out on some spare ABS and realized if I would have some scissors with shorter blades, that that would even be easier than using the dremel. Also, realized after the fact that we are out of fine sanding paper, so for now the edges are left rough.

Had some trouble with cutting the slits and scuffed one knee pad a bit. But I think its not really seeable, especially once weathering is applied. Will have to see if a different dremel bit works better, or if i can cut a slit and then file/sand it down.

Anyways I was a bit afraid I took of too much. So how do they look?

In addition, I hemmed in the overall's legs and sleeves with a lot of help

Cheers!