DontDisstheFett’s ROTJ Build Thread

[DontDissTheFett]

Hello! Well after several years of this armor sitting in a box, I’ve decided it’s time to get it finished. I have an ANH Stunt TK in the 501st, and a Resistance Pilot costume in the Rebel Legion already but I’ve always loved the look of the Scout.
 
Unfortunately for me, I am so worried about making a mistake that things take me forever to tackle, and throughout this thread I’ll probably be asking some very simplistic questions.
 
Anyway, this is what I have so far:
 
Helmet: Kropserkel - assembled
Armor: Studio Creations - all unassembled
Flightsuit: KriptonTop
Gloves: not yet purchased
Flak vest: Imperial Boots
Cummerbund: Cheesewhoopy
Codpiece: not yet – Cheesewhoopy
Boots: Cheesewhoopy
EC-17 – DVH
 
So first item on the list is putting the topper on the tank. I’ve been reading lots of build threads and have been going through Pandatrooper’s thread. He shows his topper placement and it looks like it’s a lot bigger than the topper that I have for mine, so the proportions are off from how he has his placed.
 
My question is, should I place my topper closer to the backplate, or does it look better a little more towards the back, or does it even matter?
 
So this:




Or this?
 



Thank you in advance for all your help!

Rob

[DontDissTheFett]

Next was to try to size the chest and back piece. I put on the racing suit and vest and placed both pieces on, overlapping where I thought they fit the best. Then I put on my cummerbund and for sake of placement, held the belt on to hopefully get the placement of the three levels right. I taped where the overlap was and it measures at about 3” which doesn’t quite make sense to me because I’m about 5’9” so there shouldn’t be that much. Looking at the pictures it looks like the chest/back should come down a bit.







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[Harbinger]

Hey Rob! First tank topper pic looks better to me, reference photo may help you here:

 

You can let the overlap out quite a bit, that looks like too much on your chest/back IMO. May help to throw some elastic or tape at the bottom to pull them together too, before you trim anything, as that may change how they fit.

[DontDissTheFett]

Hey Rob! First tank topper pic looks better to me, reference photo may help you here:

 
You can let the overlap out quite a bit, that looks like too much on your chest/back IMO. May help to throw some elastic or tape at the bottom to pull them together too, before you trim anything, as that may change how they fit.

Thank you so much. I had been looking at that reference pic myself but was a bit confused because of other trooper’s pics with some variation. I will trace it and glue it the way the first pic showed.

I’m also going to re-tape the overlap starting at 1in and go from there.

Thank you!


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[Aradun]

We have all of the reference pics available at Scoutopedia in case you need any other reference photos.

http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

[DontDissTheFett]

Ok, tank topper glued and and drying.

I adjusted the back and chest to a 1” overlap and then just for kicks adjusted them to no overlap and took pictures of each. When I tried on the pieces with no adjustment I also put some tape connecting the two sides as was suggested. Looking at the pictures I’m really not sure if I need to make adjustments or not.

1” overlap






With no overlap at all:







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[Chopper]

I think the 1" overlap is better. Your front photo looks fine, but your back piece is a bit low with no overlap.

[DontDissTheFett]

I think the 1" overlap is better. Your front photo looks fine, but your back piece is a bit low with no overlap.

Thank you, Chopper. The overlap was the back straps overtop the front, so that effectively was just a shortening of the back. I would guess that I should take material off the back and leave the front alone, or should I split the difference and take .5” off both pieces?

I appreciate everyone putting up with dumb questions’


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[Harbinger]

Speaking from very recent experience - where does either option put the ‘seam’? If it isn’t centered on your shoulders it may pull your shoulder bells back/forward.

 

Hope I’m making sense.

[DontDissTheFett]

Speaking from very recent experience - where does either option put the ‘seam’? If it isn’t centered on your shoulders it may pull your shoulder bells back/forward.
 
Hope I’m making sense.

You make perfect sense. I’ve put a line where the seam is on the overlap and no overlap pics. It looks like the seam is pretty much centered on the no overlap but I can definitely see a gap that could be tightened up on the backplate by raising it up. With that said, it looks like I should take material off the back and leave the front alone. Does that sound right?





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[Chopper]

9 hours ago, DontDissTheFett said:

This set up looks solid. Yes you can trim a little off the back bridge to bring it into position. 

[DontDissTheFett]

Ok, so after a weekend of not getting as much done as I wanted, I have made a bit of progress.

I re-taped and decided to err on the side of caution and trimmed 3/4” off the back plate and I think I’ve got it where I need it. I can always trim more off if needed but as we all know, it’s much easier to remove material then to add lol.





I cleaned up all the strapping slots in the biceps, forearms, and knee pieces and am going to start putting the elastic in. Is gluing the elastic with e6000 ok? I see some people using Velcro, some sewing the elastic together, etc.

I applied my tank topper and the tank stripes (after much doing and redoing, even pulling out my laser level as I saw mentioned in another thread (excuse some of the glue goop That I still have to remove). They’re not PERFECT, but I think they’ll do. I also used the tape transfer truck from Pandatrooper’s build thread for the tank bars. Now just need to paint the circle white.





Next up is riveting the hump to the back plate and I’m a bit confused how to do it..

If I insert the rivet from the top, it ends up looking like this (I tried it in a piece of wood first)



But other build pictures show the River and washer looking like this and I’m not sure how to get that:



I told everyone I’d have dumb questions!

[Chopper]

You rivet it from the inside of the tank. The part of the rivet that compresses should be on the tank topper side with the washer. The part of the rivet that breaks off should be on the inside of the tank.

[DontDissTheFett]

You rivet it from the inside of the tank. The part of the rivet that compresses should be on the tank topper side with the washer. The part of the rivet that breaks off should be on the inside of the tank.

Thank you! Unfortunately it looks like I’m going to have to remove my tank topper and move it closer to the edge because there’s not enough clearance to get my rivet gun underneath.

Now looking at it though, even if I move it closer half an inch I still can’t get my rivet gun in the straight. Is there anyway I can get around this? Is there such a thing as a low-profile rivet gun?




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[Chopper]

You have several options:

You can cut out part of the "shelf" on the back armor, so you can fit the rivet gun underneath. You won't be able to see the shelf under the tank anyhow. 

Or you can punch a rivet and washer through some scrap plastic and then cut away the plastic, leaving only the rivet and washer. Then you can glue that onto the tank topper, giving the appearance of it being riveted.

 

 

[Aradun]

I’m going to toss out a third option building on what [mention=83045]Chopper[/mention] already noted.

Rivet the tank topper directly to the tank. Then drill a small hole in the shelf of the back armor that will allow the exposed rivet on the underside of the tank to sit in. With the rivet sitting inside this hole, you’ll have a nice flush surface to use e6000 to glue the tank directly onto the shelf.

You should be able to “mark” where to drill the hole on the shelf by setting the tank on the shelf of the back armor once the topper has been riveted to it and pressing lightly so that the rivet makes an impression or mark on the shelf.

[Harbinger]

I’d second Dennis’ option and just rivet the topper+tank. You may not even need to drill, those rivets get pretty flat on the breakaway side (usually).

[DontDissTheFett]

I’m going to toss out a third option building on what [mention=83045]Chopper[/mention] already noted.

Rivet the tank topper directly to the tank. Then drill a small hole in the shelf of the back armor that will allow the exposed rivet on the underside of the tank to sit in. With the rivet sitting inside this hole, you’ll have a nice flush surface to use e6000 to glue the tank directly onto the shelf.

You should be able to “mark” where to drill the hole on the shelf by setting the tank on the shelf of the back armor once the topper has been riveted to it and pressing lightly so that the rivet makes an impression or mark on the shelf.

That’s a really good idea and that sounds like the way to go. Unfortunately I already cut a hole in the hump and that worked out well, until I put the tank on. Maybe I messed up cutting.. I’ll try this alternative and perhaps I can patch the hole I made.


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[DontDissTheFett]

Ok a little bit of a progress update..

I bought a plastic container from Walmart and cut out a nice patch to cover up the entire hump area on my backplate. I only considered patching it for my benefit as the hole is only visible from the inside. I talked to Jeff from SC and he said the new backplate has a much bigger recess to allow easier riveting from the bottom so rather then mess around with alternative methods I just went ahead and got one. He’s already shipped and it should be here Monday.

I took the time while I’m waiting to pull out the sewing machine and make some strapping for the knees, forearm, and bicep pieces. I was originally going to just glue bought after thinking about it the extra work of sewing Velcro was worth the adjustability.





I bought some Velcro brand sewing Velcro which was just horrible so I ended up using sticky back industrial Velcro. It gummed you the needle a bit on the sewing machine which required a few wipes of mineral spirits to cleanup. Although a little bit of a pain it was worth it I think for the strength of the industrial stuff.

I also glued the t bits in and want to now get ready to glue a reinforcing plate behind and rivet the 2nd strap in the knees. Once I do that I’m headed to the TD.

I measured about 1/2” down and a 1/2” in, is this a proper spot to rivet the 2nd strap?




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[Chopper]

I would center the rivet on the flat edge and move it slightly closer to the indent. See screen reference photo below for an idea of where to position it on the knee armor. 

[DontDissTheFett]

Thank you Chopper.

Thank you for that. I relocated my drill points to about 3/8 from the top and center on the flat piece. I cut some spare plastic and glued it behind for reinforcement, drilled my holes, cut my elastic, and popped them in with a rivet.



Next I glued the greeblies on the TD and 3D printed some rings to affix to the inside of the TD end caps. I sized them so the TD tube actually snaps onto them, but I’ll end up gluing them on too.






Once they are dry tomorrow I’ll assemble the tube, drill the holes for the zip tie and finish off the TD.

Jeff at SC was incredibly fast and already shipped out my new and improved backplate and it’s scheduled for delivery on Monday. As soon as I get that I can attach the tank, and attach the bridges to work on the zip tie method for holding the shoulder bells.

Once that’s done what’s left is:

Cut slots in belt and drop boxes
Affix webbing to to plastic belt
Weave through the strapping for the drop boxes
Affix the holster
Rig up the side straps for the chest/back.

It’s coming along!


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[Harbinger]

Great work. Love the 3D printed tube holders.

[DontDissTheFett]

Thanks Harbinger! I love being able to whip up little parts to help put things together.

Speaking of that..

This weekend was busy so I wasn’t able to get much done but I did manage to put together the TD.

The vacuum tube snap snugly over the 3D printed rings and won’t need to be glued after all; in fact, they’re not coming off without a fight lol.



Drilled a few holes and stuck a zip tie in and voila. I do need to source some clips for it though.




Tomorrow the new backplate will be here so I can get the tank on and start strapping the shoulder bells.


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[Aradun]

For clips, check out Amazon- 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09471BZCJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Nice work on the TD!

[DontDissTheFett]

Thank you AradunFF!


Since the work week has started again I thought it would be a good use of time to start on a MrPoopie blaster




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