RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Hey Everyone! Im posting to hopefully get some help for a patch job on my helmet faceplate, I originally had a small paint chip and tried to fix it with a bright white car paint brush but I then smeared and overall ended with this, is there such a thing as a marker or something to do a patch make it blend in more, maybe not 100% flawless but 90% I’d appreciate all the help thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Whose helmet maker do you have? There aren't a ton of options to get a perfectly seamless paint blend, short of a full repaint, and that's a big lift. You can try getting some of those triangular makeup sponges from CVS and using them to dry-dab some white acrylic paint around the mark. It might diffuse the edges and discoloration a bit. If you can match the paint shade and have an airbrush, then you can probably blend it fairly well. Spray paint would not look as nice, so I'd avoid that option for a touch up. Armor is going to get dinged and weathered as you troop. You can always look towards swapping to a weathered scout. After all, look at how dinged up the screen used scout gear was! It'll blend in perfectly! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dart Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Depending on the base material (ABS, fiberglass), you might be better off to try and clean off what you've done by gently sanding it back. If you didn't paint it initially, it might be difficult to get the right shade and tone, so I agree with Corey above, maybe feather the edges a bit and make it look like a bit of weathering. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 6 hours ago, Chopper said: Whose helmet maker do you have? There aren't a ton of options to get a perfectly seamless paint blend, short of a full repaint, and that's a big lift. You can try getting some of those triangular makeup sponges from CVS and using them to dry-dab some white acrylic paint around the mark. It might diffuse the edges and discoloration a bit. If you can match the paint shade and have an airbrush, then you can probably blend it fairly well. Spray paint would not look as nice, so I'd avoid that option for a touch up. Armor is going to get dinged and weathered as you troop. You can always look towards swapping to a weathered scout. After all, look at how dinged up the screen used scout gear was! It'll blend in perfectly! Hi, my helmet was made/bought from RS Prop Masters, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Dart said: Depending on the base material (ABS, fiberglass), you might be better off to try and clean off what you've done by gently sanding it back. If you didn't paint it initially, it might be difficult to get the right shade and tone, so I agree with Corey above, maybe feather the edges a bit and make it look like a bit of weathering. Hi, hmmm I’m still deciding if I wanna go the weathered route, it’ll look cool but it’s work I didn’t think I’d be doing this soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Looking at your photo, you MIGHT be able to remove your paint with light rubbing using a toothpick. Over at FISD they suggest using Goof-Off (a citrus based paint remover), a toothpick or two and a few cotton swabs to remove the extra paint from the tops and bottom of the teeth on a TK helmet for those aiming for level 2 cert. I’d avoid using the goof-off because I own a RS kit and I’m not sure if RS paints their helmets, so you wouldn’t want to remove any of their paint along with your repair. Most TKs are bare ABS so there’s nothing to worry about. If you want to try it, dull the point on the toothpick and try using it with some rubbing alcohol. I think most of that rough paint should come off and then you should have a smoother surface to work with if you want to give it another try using Corey’s suggestion to smooth it out and blend it in. Just go slow.If all else fails, weathering is the easiest way to go and it wouldn’t take much effort or time. Just a rattle can and light application: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Having experienced this sort of thing many times with my own helmets, try to make sure that the fix for this small thing doesn't end up turning into a big thing, like a helmet repaint. Believe me, I've been there and sometimes the fix cascades and ends up being worse than the original problem. I would also advise avoiding "goof off" or other paint thinners, as that will likely take off the original RS helmet paint along with the touch up paint. A toothpick will work when removing paint from straight ABS, but on a painted surface, like the RS scout helmet, it will probably scratch the original paint surface. 90% iso alcohol on a q-tip might remove some of the paint. You can do a test in a small corner to see if the iso alcohol does anything, but try and be conservative about it. I'm willing to bet that it likely won't, since you said it was car paint, which is probably lacquer based. Regardless, good luck and let us know how it goes! 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 14 hours ago, AradunFF said: Looking at your photo, you MIGHT be able to remove your paint with light rubbing using a toothpick. Over at FISD they suggest using Goof-Off (a citrus based paint remover), a toothpick or two and a few cotton swabs to remove the extra paint from the tops and bottom of the teeth on a TK helmet for those aiming for level 2 cert. I’d avoid using the goof-off because I own a RS kit and I’m not sure if RS paints their helmets, so you wouldn’t want to remove any of their paint along with your repair. Most TKs are bare ABS so there’s nothing to worry about. If you want to try it, dull the point on the toothpick and try using it with some rubbing alcohol. I think most of that rough paint should come off and then you should have a smoother surface to work with if you want to give it another try using Corey’s suggestion to smooth it out and blend it in. Just go slow. If all else fails, weathering is the easiest way to go and it wouldn’t take much effort or time. Just a rattle can and light application: Weathering now will surely stop any future OCD thoughts of perfection, I’m bound to come across more scuffs in my life time plus I think most scouts are weathered except maybe the ones in the background 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 13 hours ago, Chopper said: Having experienced this sort of thing many times with my own helmets, try to make sure that the fix for this small thing doesn't end up turning into a big thing, like a helmet repaint. Believe me, I've been there and sometimes the fix cascades and ends up being worse than the original problem. I would also advise avoiding "goof off" or other paint thinners, as that will likely take off the original RS helmet paint along with the touch up paint. A toothpick will work when removing paint from straight ABS, but on a painted surface, like the RS scout helmet, it will probably scratch the original paint surface. 90% iso alcohol on a q-tip might remove some of the paint. You can do a test in a small corner to see if the iso alcohol does anything, but try and be conservative about it. I'm willing to bet that it likely won't, since you said it was car paint, which is probably lacquer based. Regardless, good luck and let us know how it goes! I used olive oil with q tip then toothpick with the alcohol do better or same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 I've never heard of using olive oil to remove car paint before. Different types of paints require different types of solvents. If you used automotive grade paints, I can't see it doing much to remove the paint smear, aside from maybe staining it a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 On 12/20/2021 at 1:08 PM, Chopper said: Whose helmet maker do you have? There aren't a ton of options to get a perfectly seamless paint blend, short of a full repaint, and that's a big lift. You can try getting some of those triangular makeup sponges from CVS and using them to dry-dab some white acrylic paint around the mark. It might diffuse the edges and discoloration a bit. If you can match the paint shade and have an airbrush, then you can probably blend it fairly well. Spray paint would not look as nice, so I'd avoid that option for a touch up. Armor is going to get dinged and weathered as you troop. You can always look towards swapping to a weathered scout. After all, look at how dinged up the screen used scout gear was! It'll blend in perfectly! I actually have a paint/air brush for use in model kits if I find gloss bright white you think it will patch it up with light air compression??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Possibly yeah. Before spraying the helmet, I'd test the shade you intend to use on a plastic spoon or something first to see how well it matches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 Fellow modeler here. I use both acrylic and enamel base paints when I paint and weather. I would get a neutral piece of scrap plastic, like a spoon mentioned by Chopper, and I would do a color test of different types of paint. Testors gloss white may be a good stand in for the automotive white but keep in mind when you airbrush it you’ll have to thin it with an enamel based thinner. You can also “decant” some of that automotive white you used into a jar and let it sit for awhile to allow the propellants to offgas then use that as your base in your airbrush. Again, it’s really important to use a thinner that’s compatible with that type of paint or it can really harm more than help. Measure twice cut once also applies to painting, especially a nice bucket like that, so take your time and check your chemicals before shooting it. Also mask off the area really well to protect from overspray. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbyTheRobotR1D1 Posted December 22, 2021 Author Share Posted December 22, 2021 6 hours ago, Retrofire said: Fellow modeler here. I use both acrylic and enamel base paints when I paint and weather. I would get a neutral piece of scrap plastic, like a spoon mentioned by Chopper, and I would do a color test of different types of paint. Testors gloss white may be a good stand in for the automotive white but keep in mind when you airbrush it you’ll have to thin it with an enamel based thinner. You can also “decant” some of that automotive white you used into a jar and let it sit for awhile to allow the propellants to offgas then use that as your base in your airbrush. Again, it’s really important to use a thinner that’s compatible with that type of paint or it can really harm more than help. Measure twice cut once also applies to painting, especially a nice bucket like that, so take your time and check your chemicals before shooting it. Also mask off the area really well to protect from overspray. Ok, I’ll add some little water to the white paint to thin but mostly I’ll test out before applying, one thing though do I need to add a “concealer” for the paint won’t run off or is it all good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 If you're using an acrylic then you should be ok since the scratched surface seems to be "roughed-up" which would give the paint something to grip onto. Keep your airbrushed layers thin and build it up in successive layers. Typically we wouldn't be recommending acrylic on top of a lacquer finish but here we're trying to mask the scratch and acrylics are easily removable if something were to get honked up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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