Chopper Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 Most people either glue the elastic or use velcro on the knee armor, but it really doesn't matter how you rig things that we can't see. Many of these posts about methods to rig up the armor/strapping etc are more about best practices and personal preference as opposed to any sort of requirement for basic or lancer requirements. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 (edited) Confirmation on width of lower strap for the knee armor. A Lancer build thread says 20-25mm (1 inch) can be used. My kit only came with enough of the 1 inch strap (25mm) to do the upper arms, but not enough for both upper arms and knees. However, it did come with plenty of 20mm strap - if that is acceptable for the lower strap of the knees. OOPS, I just now looked at the CRL, and it does say the lower strap is either 12mm or 20mm. I will trust the CRL. Also, since I am taking my jump suit to a tailor tomorrow in order to have it altered (it is too short from the crotch to the shoulders, and I am hoping I can get it lengthened), I may look into starting the helmet, since I won't have the suit for a while in order to size the body armor correctly. Edited February 20, 2022 by RZill Change in text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 Build threads are a great help for armor construction and are generally current, but some criteria can change over time if new evidence is uncovered. Always double check against the CRL as it is the most current place for specifications. 20mm // 3/4" strapping is fine for the lower strap on the knee armor. Knee armor has two elastic straps: The upper strap is 12mm (1/2 inch) wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor with two (2) 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. The lower strap may be 12mm (1/2 inch) or 20mm (3/4 inch) wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 Maybe a silly question, but I thought I read somewhere a while back that the vintage Kenner toy pistol was actually pretty close to being pass-able for trooping, provided it's painted, of course. Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I would check with your local GML on that one. In the old days using the Kenner blaster was more common. You don't see it so often now. Keep in mind that the Kenner blaster is oversized compared to the actual holdout blaster. You'd also need to remove the trigger. The SC holster is fairly large compared to others, so it will probably fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 4 minutes ago, Chopper said: I would check with your local GML on that one. In the old days using the Kenner blaster was more common. You don't see it so often now. Keep in mind that the Kenner blaster is oversized compared to the actual holdout blaster. You'd also need to remove the trigger. The SC holster is fairly large compared to others, so it will probably fit? I don't have an extra one to modify, anyway, but if I can find a beater one, I'm sure my GML would allow it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 There's also the Negative Eleven blasters (resin), which are based off of the Kenner one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 Here is my ABS paste result. The paste came out ok - not exactly the same color as my armor, but in brighter light, barely noticeable. Plus, the affected area is mostly covered by the strap, anyway. Pretty easy to make via the instructions from Kalani on white armor. I am buying a sewing machine to sew the velcro to the straps, since I have been wanting one for other projects, anyway. My arm and leg armor is basically done, aside from gluing on the greeblies. I am tackling the side strapping for the back/chest armor next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 More and more and more questions - I told you it would be a million of them! Regarding the velcro for the side straps from chest to back armor, should it be heavy duty velcro? I know it would hold better, but also tougher to sew on to the strapping. It doesn't seem like heavy duty would be necessary, since it's not supporting any weight, it's just connecting front to back. AND, is eight inches enough to strap my front to back? It was all that was included in my set. After using my calculator app, I've discovered it's four inches per side Is this enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Regular velcro should be fine, it's not supporting a lot of stress The only portion of your chest armor strapping we care about is what can be seen here. 4 inches per side may be enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 I don't think you necessarily need industrial strength velcro. I'm not sure generally what size you are, but 4" on each side would probably be the bare minimum needed for the side strapping. Some people wrap the strapping all the way around the back, but that's not a requirement -- it's really up to you how to rig it up internally. If you end up needing more strapping, you can always email Jeff. He's sent me extra strapping in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 9 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said: Regular velcro should be fine, it's not supporting a lot of stress The only portion of your chest armor strapping we care about is what can be seen here. 4 inches per side may be enough. Excellent, thanks. I have plenty of strap material, it’s the Velcro itself of which I only have four inches per side - I am sewing Velcro to the strap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Oh okay, in that case only 4" of velcro should be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 7 minutes ago, RZill said: Excellent, thanks. I have plenty of strap material, it’s the Velcro itself of which I only have four inches per side - I am sewing Velcro to the strap. Just an inch square on each end should be good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woobiee Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 For strap length, you could have a longer than needed strap and velcro it internally within (inside armor) so you can fine tune the proper length. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 It's very difficult to see in the photos on Scoutopedia if the corners of the belt are rounded off or not. And the CRL doesn't show them at all. I'm guessing it's not a huge deal, since the top of the belt, at least on the edges, is covered up, anyway. Also, I've asked before, but should I level off the tops/bottoms of the boxes on the belt? Again, they are difficult to see in photos. I've sanded them down a little, but should I level them all the way to the boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 What you've got right now is just fine. No need to do more. The ends of the belt are slightly rounded as per the screen shot below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 8 minutes ago, Chopper said: What you've got right now is just fine. No need to do more. The ends of the belt are slightly rounded as per the screen shot below: Ah, ok - missed that one. Thanks! Sorry for the nitpicking, but I want this to be right Still under my promise of a million questions, and I'll be helping another trooper build one at an armor party, so expect more!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 It's all good dude. Questions are what we're here for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 We don't say either way if they should be rounded off so it's not a worry there. However, it's just a good idea in general to round off your sharp corners just to avoid them jabbing into you during a troop! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Well, I said in my previous comment something about a million questions. Upon further review, that call is overturned - I originally said a thousand questions.... which I might approach! Next question - I'm about to invest in a sewing machine. Do I need a heavy duty machine, or will the regular material type be sufficient? I figure heavy duty, since it's sewing through velcro and the strap together. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 A regular sewing machine will be fine. They sell heavy gauge needles which will help you sew things like leather and heavy duty Velcro, but I was able to use a standard needle for most of my build. You’d be looking a needles specifically marked for use on denim or leather if you want to get a heavy gauge needle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Not going to lie, I was terrified putting in my first rivet. But, I was careful, I practiced on a separate piece of plastic, and got 'er done. Looks the same on the other side. Now on to the opposite knee! Been trying to get even the smallest thing done every day. Alas, I start my final hell week - six straight 12 hour work days, so the Biker work will suffer. On to regular day shift after that, so I can devote more time to this. Hopefully, it's done and approved before the IC Con, and I can meet our Emperor in uniform! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Right on target!! Good job and we're looking forward to seeing this continue once you get off shift and some good rest underneath you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZill Posted March 20, 2022 Author Share Posted March 20, 2022 On 3/3/2022 at 5:33 PM, Retrofire said: Right on target!! Good job and we're looking forward to seeing this continue once you get off shift and some good rest underneath you! I haven't quit, I just got really busy and tired with my new hours. I'm still building, and have purchased a sewing machine and learned to thread and use it. Now, on to the shoulder bridge. The CRL says that for Level 2, I should use white fabric between .5 and 1 inch wide to cover the shoulder bridge. Since I am not going for Level 2, is a 1.5 inch fabric acceptable? Seems like that would give better coverage of the shoulder joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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