The first of a thousand questions about my build...

[RZill]

I am getting started on building my ROTJ Scout armor, and on just the first piece, I have a question.  The CRL does not have a top and bottom view of the forearm pieces.  The bottom of mine are both shaped like this.  Is the cut supposed to go straight across?  I just started smoothing it out, and noticed this.  Thanks for your help in the first of a thousand questions I'll likely have on here!

 

[Chopper]

There are not a ton of photos of that side of the forearm armor in ROTJ, see screenshot image below.

I'd try and round out the front edge there as I marked in green in the attached photo. That should get you close to how it should be cut.

[RZill]

On 12/17/2021 at 4:27 PM, Chopper said:

There are not a ton of photos of that side of the forearm armor in ROTJ, see screenshot image below.

I'd try and round out the front edge there as I marked in green in the attached photo. That should get you close to how it should be cut.

 

 

Ok, thanks.  I thought, if anything, they were like mirror images of each other - rounded opposite ways.  But, they are both shaped the same way.  Much appreciated.

[BikerScout007]

You can KINDA see the front of it here:

This photo, as well as many other great reference shots, may be found in the Scoutopedia:

http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

[RZill]

On 12/17/2021 at 4:27 PM, Chopper said:

There are not a ton of photos of that side of the forearm armor in ROTJ, see screenshot image below.

I'd try and round out the front edge there as I marked in green in the attached photo. That should get you close to how it should be cut.

 

 

Excellent, thanks!  Next question.  Does the slot for the strap go on where I marked the green or the red?  I know forearms don't show up very well in reference pics, but I want to get it right.

 

[Chopper]

It's actually harder to tell from the inside of the forearms, but I'd go with the red stripe.

Reference this photo from the Scoutopedia, which also gives you a decent view of the front of the forearm as well:

[RZill]

On 12/18/2021 at 5:59 PM, Chopper said:

It's actually harder to tell from the inside of the forearms, but I'd go with the red stripe.

Reference this photo from the Scoutopedia, which also gives you a decent view of the front of the forearm as well:

 

That would make more sense - the strap would be more flush with the armor that way.

[RZill]

On 12/17/2021 at 4:27 PM, Chopper said:

There are not a ton of photos of that side of the forearm armor in ROTJ, see screenshot image below.

I'd try and round out the front edge there as I marked in green in the attached photo. That should get you close to how it should be cut.

 

 

Is there a specific measurement as to how far from the edge the slot is cut for the strap around the upper arm?

 

[RZill]

On 12/17/2021 at 5:04 PM, BikerScout007 said:

You can KINDA see the front of it here:

 

This photo, as well as many other great reference shots, may be found in the Scoutopedia:

http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Is there a specific measurement as to how far from the edge the slot is cut for the strap around the upper arm?

 

[Chopper]

Nope. Nothing that strictly defined. You can use the photo as a general guide and eyeball the placement on your own bicep armor.

[RZill]

On 12/18/2021 at 5:59 PM, Chopper said:

It's actually harder to tell from the inside of the forearms, but I'd go with the red stripe.

Reference this photo from the Scoutopedia, which also gives you a decent view of the front of the forearm as well:

 

Next question - should there be absolutely no return edge along the top and bottom of the belt?  It's difficult to tell in reference photos.  So, should I be able to run my finger along the tops and bottoms of the "boxes" on the belt, and hit no edge, whatsoever?

 

[Chopper]

I think what you have in the photo looks fine, Ron. Maybe you could hit what's left with an emory board a bit, but otherwise, I think you're good.

 

 

[RZill]

4 minutes ago, Chopper said:

I think what you have in the photo looks fine, Ron. Maybe you could hit what's left with an emory board a bit, but otherwise, I think you're good.

 

 

Thanks!  This is why I love the 501st - you are so helpful.  Much appreciated. I got my boots and gloves, and have only the back and chest to do as far as carving out the strap slots.  Slowly, but surely!  We have a big troop in April, and I want to have this done by then.  I have a TK, but want to have thos one there for the Emperor himself (Ian McDiarmid).

[BikerScout98]

18 hours ago, RZill said:

Thanks!  This is why I love the 501st - you are so helpful.  Much appreciated. I have a big troop in April, and I want to have this done by then.

Let me help you (chopper really) with this excellent thread on things that help you troop and wear better in our sacred ROTJ Armor! If you havent come across it yet ofc. If you have, well...enjoy my message and happy building @RZill! 😂

I used every single tip he offers in this thread and it has helped leaps and bounds!

Link to choppers thread:

Enjoy brother,

-Scot  🖐😁👍

[RZill]

3 hours ago, BikerScout98 said:

Let me help you (chopper really) with this excellent thread on things that help you troop and wear better in our sacred ROTJ Armor! If you havent come across it yet ofc. If you have, well...enjoy my message and happy building @RZill! 😂

I used every single tip he offers in this thread and it has helped leaps and bounds!

Link to choppers thread:

Enjoy brother,

-Scot  🖐😁👍

Excellent, thank you!  I will certainly keep that window open while I am building.  Alas, I've already screwed up one part - I cut a strap slit in the wrong place, and have to come up with something to cover it up.  It will mostly be covered by the strap once it's on, but I don't want it to be noticeable.

[BikerScout98]

2 hours ago, RZill said:

Excellent, thank you!  I will certainly keep that window open while I am building.  Alas, I've already screwed up one part - I cut a strap slit in the wrong place, and have to come up with something to cover it up.  It will mostly be covered by the strap once it's on, but I don't want it to be noticeable.

@RZill I have been told by @AradunFF and chopper that you make an abs paste with scrap material and acetone.

Cheers

[Retrofire]

1 hour ago, RZill said:

Excellent, thank you!  I will certainly keep that window open while I am building.  Alas, I've already screwed up one part - I cut a strap slit in the wrong place, and have to come up with something to cover it up.  It will mostly be covered by the strap once it's on, but I don't want it to be noticeable.

Hi! Can you post a pic of the part in question? It’ll be helpful to know if you’ll need to add a backing piece of ABS before adding the paste. The paste is good for holes and such but a little more tricky if you’re trying to fill in a large area.

Here’s the link from the FISD on how to make/use ABS paste: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

[RZill]

On 2/2/2022 at 11:00 AM, Retrofire said:

Hi! Can you post a pic of the part in question? It’ll be helpful to know if you’ll need to add a backing piece of ABS before adding the paste. The paste is good for holes and such but a little more tricky if you’re trying to fill in a large area.

Here’s the link from the FISD on how to make/use ABS paste: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

Since I will be running the strap through the bottom slot, it may not be necessary to cover the middle of the top slot (at least, not perfectly).  But, I don't want the sides of that top slot to show where the strap won't cover.  Thanks!

 

[Chopper]

That should be an easy fix. Glue a piece of scrap styrene behind it, then fill and sand the cut with ABS paste. Or at worst, you can email Jeff at SC and buy another drop box a la carte. We've all been there and had to send that email.

[RZill]

How many, and what size rivets go on this armor, total?  My kit did not come with any, and the tutorial I am looking at just says that rivets came with his kit... there may be a mention of them elsewhere, but this is an easier way to find out!  Plus, I want to put rivets on my TK, anyway, so I may be purchasing a rivet gun.

[Chopper]

I bought a rivet gun when I did my first scout build and I've used it for plenty of other things afterward. It's a worthwhile purchase if you plan on building other kits or craft stuff in the future.

This is the one I bought. It's not the absolutely cheapest available, but it's well built, so it'll last you for quite a while: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAQ8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the rivets you should get -- 1/8" aluminum rivets with at least a 1/4" pull. Make sure you get aluminum, not steel!

https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B07R5HYWRW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TUI0LN9GORSK&keywords=1%2F8"%2Brivets%2Baluminum&qid=1643933190&sprefix=1%2F8%2Brivets%2Baluminum%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-4&th=1

And then you'll need some 1/8" back up plates, also in aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-WA1-Aluminum-30-Count/dp/B0006906GS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NWOVR9RFF46D&keywords=1%2F8"+backup+plates+aluminum&qid=1643933451&sprefix=1%2F8+back+up+plates+aluminum%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-2

Off the top of my head, I'd say you'll need twelve minimum? Tank top, tank bottom, L/R belt, two in each knee, and 4 in the holster.You may also want to rivet in the clips to your det tubing, but that's not CRL specified. Overall, I'd say that it's easier to just buy the packs and not worry about it if you misfire a rivet while building.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

[RZill]

On 2/3/2022 at 7:20 PM, Chopper said:

I bought a rivet gun when I did my first scout build and I've used it for plenty of other things afterward. It's a worthwhile purchase if you plan on building other kits or craft stuff in the future.

This is the one I bought. It's not the absolutely cheapest available, but it's well built, so it'll last you for quite a while: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAQ8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the rivets you should get -- 1/8" aluminum rivets with at least a 1/4" pull. Make sure you get aluminum, not steel!

https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B07R5HYWRW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TUI0LN9GORSK&keywords=1%2F8"%2Brivets%2Baluminum&qid=1643933190&sprefix=1%2F8%2Brivets%2Baluminum%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-4&th=1

And then you'll need some 1/8" back up plates, also in aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-WA1-Aluminum-30-Count/dp/B0006906GS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NWOVR9RFF46D&keywords=1%2F8"+backup+plates+aluminum&qid=1643933451&sprefix=1%2F8+back+up+plates+aluminum%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-2

Off the top of my head, I'd say you'll need twelve minimum? Tank top, tank bottom, L/R belt, two in each knee, and 4 in the holster.You may also want to rivet in the clips to your det tubing, but that's not CRL specified. Overall, I'd say that it's easier to just buy the packs and not worry about it if you misfire a rivet while building.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Wow, absolutely terrific advice - thanks!!!

[RZill]

2 minutes ago, RZill said:

Wow, absolutely terrific advice - thanks!!!

 

On 2/3/2022 at 7:20 PM, Chopper said:

I bought a rivet gun when I did my first scout build and I've used it for plenty of other things afterward. It's a worthwhile purchase if you plan on building other kits or craft stuff in the future.

This is the one I bought. It's not the absolutely cheapest available, but it's well built, so it'll last you for quite a while: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAQ8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the rivets you should get -- 1/8" aluminum rivets with at least a 1/4" pull. Make sure you get aluminum, not steel!

https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B07R5HYWRW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TUI0LN9GORSK&keywords=1%2F8"%2Brivets%2Baluminum&qid=1643933190&sprefix=1%2F8%2Brivets%2Baluminum%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-4&th=1

And then you'll need some 1/8" back up plates, also in aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-WA1-Aluminum-30-Count/dp/B0006906GS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NWOVR9RFF46D&keywords=1%2F8"+backup+plates+aluminum&qid=1643933451&sprefix=1%2F8+back+up+plates+aluminum%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-2

Off the top of my head, I'd say you'll need twelve minimum? Tank top, tank bottom, L/R belt, two in each knee, and 4 in the holster.You may also want to rivet in the clips to your det tubing, but that's not CRL specified. Overall, I'd say that it's easier to just buy the packs and not worry about it if you misfire a rivet while building.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

The rivets you linked me to say they are aluminum grip and steel mandrel - is the steel mandrel ok?

[Chopper]

The "mandrel" is the part that gets popped off when you use the rivet gun, but let's see if there's a better option that doesn't involve steel. Wait one please.

[Chopper]

Do you have an ace hardware near you? These are the exact rivets and back up plates I used, but we have about a million Ace Hardwares around here.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014058

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014041

If you want to go with Lowes, the best option I can find for 1/8 rivets is the variety pack. Just don't mix up the steel and aluminum ones.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-120-Pack-1-8-in-Varies-Aluminum-Rivets/1087323

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-30-Count-0-131-x-3-8-in-Aluminum-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washers/1087319

The big thing about steel is if you need to remove the rivet -- it's not impossible, but it's really, really difficult. Let's try and keep things easy, right?