Anyone deal with 3dprintoys for blasters?

[Revolver Ocelot]

Anyone deal with 3dprintoys? They offer an E22 and rogue 1 E11. To my very untrained eye, they look really clean.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/846600550/e-22-blaster-rifle-3d-prited-kit?ref=hp_rv-1

 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/724063324/e-11-blaster-custom-3d-printed-kit?ref=shop_home_active_44

[KOtrooper]

The E-22 is pretty inaccurate. You're better off printing Sean Field's free files and modding it a bit. That said, the price is pretty low for a printed kit. Check with your GML and see if they'll approve it for basic. It would need a lot of work for Level 2.

[Revolver Ocelot]

1 hour ago, KOtrooper said:

The E-22 is pretty inaccurate. You're better off printing Sean Field's free files and modding it a bit. That said, the price is pretty low for a printed kit. Check with your GML and see if they'll approve it for basic. It would need a lot of work for Level 2.

Ok. I figured the price was way too low to be for an accurate version.

[Aradun]

For the E22, stick with Sean’s files and modify as mentioned by KOTrooper.

As an aside, I’ve purchased 3D files from him and they are well crafted and print great, but have never purchased anything that he has printed himself, so I can’t speak to his print quality.

He also prints in PLA+ which prints nicely, but won’t fare well if left in your trunk or hot vehicle, as it will warp in the intense heat.

[Revolver Ocelot]

Any opinions on accuracy of this one. From 3dprintmercmart. I've gotten Clone blasters from him in the past and they are nice, he is local too.

 

He doesn't usually offer them but can on special order basis. $150 for kit.

[Revolver Ocelot]

[Aradun]

Any opinions on accuracy of this one. From 3dprintmercmart. I've gotten Clone blasters from him in the past and they are nice, he is local too.
 
He doesn't usually offer them but can on special order basis. $150 for kit.

Can’t speak to the accuracy of this model, but I did purchase my neuro-saav binocs from him and he’s easy to deal with.

Keep in mind that he prints in PLA which doesn’t hold up in intense heat as mentioned above so you need to be careful with transport and storage. If you do decide to make the purchase after getting the go ahead from an armorer as to accuracy, see if he’ll print it in ABS or PETG seeing has how it’s a custom request anyway.

Also consider seeing if someone from your Garrison has a 3D printer and is willing to print Sean Fields files for you. You can offer them $150 for time and material and get it printed in ABS or PETG which will weather the heat far better.

[Revolver Ocelot]

26 minutes ago, AradunFF said:

Can’t speak to the accuracy of this model, but I did purchase my neuro-saav binocs from him and he’s easy to deal with.

Keep in mind that he prints in PLA which doesn’t hold up in intense heat as mentioned above so you need to be careful with transport and storage. If you do decide to make the purchase after getting the go ahead from an armorer as to accuracy, see if he’ll print it in ABS or PETG seeing has how it’s a custom request anyway.

Also consider seeing if someone from your Garrison has a 3D printer and is willing to print Sean Fields files for you. You can offer them $150 for time and material and get it printed in ABS or PETG which will weather the heat far better.

Thanks for the info. I did not know the difference between PLA, PETG and ABS. I've got alot more research to do.

[KOtrooper]

That looks like Sean Fields files. It'll get you to level 2 with the right finishing work on it (paint/screws/strapping).

PETG is easier to sand. A bit trickier to print until you get your settings dialed in. Harder to glue (I use PVC cement and it's super strong).

My blaster is PLA and has held up well though. Our hot summers in the PNW are in the 80's so I don't need to worry about the car heat.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

[Aradun]

54 minutes ago, Revolver Ocelot said:

Thanks for the info. I did not know the difference between PLA, PETG and ABS. I've got alot more research to do.

Don't get me wrong.  PLA and PLA+ are great stuff and allow for some great prints, but they are susceptible to extreme heat.  As long as you don't leave the prop in a car during summer heat, or lock it away in a storage container, yard shed, or other area where the heat can do a number on it, you'll be fine fine with PLA(+).  I just don't want you shelling out your hard earned cash and then lock your E22 in the trunk of your car in 90+ degree weather while you grab a beer after a troop with some garrison mates only to find your E22 has warped when you get home. 

[Revolver Ocelot]

On 6/4/2021 at 3:40 PM, AradunFF said:

Don't get me wrong.  PLA and PLA+ are great stuff and allow for some great prints, but they are susceptible to extreme heat.  As long as you don't leave the prop in a car during summer heat, or lock it away in a storage container, yard shed, or other area where the heat can do a number on it, you'll be fine fine with PLA(+).  I just don't want you shelling out your hard earned cash and then lock your E22 in the trunk of your car in 90+ degree weather while you grab a beer after a troop with some garrison mates only to find your E22 has warped when you get home. 

Yea. I think 3dpropsnl seems like the way to go. He said he prints in resin.