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[woobiee] 1st and New build! (Lancer probably)


woobiee

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Yes, Pete/Retrofire and I talked about it and it's okay.

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Just saw another WIP that had issues with IB boots passing level two. Did I read correctly that the dog bone needs reshaping — the toe strip is okay as is for now?


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Yes, the IB scout boots have known issues for Level 2, as per our advisory list here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

See also Dekard's post from 5 August in the following link for remediation: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22556-rotj-and-remnant-boot-differences/

 

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Yes, the IB scout boots have known issues for Level 2, as per our advisory list here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/
See also Dekard's post from 5 August in the following link for remediation: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22556-rotj-and-remnant-boot-differences/
 

Thanks. Good thing i didn’t start the weathering!


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Don’t panic brother! You’ve got a lot of real estate at the top of the dog bone and I suspect that you might be able to remove the DB completely and slide it down to cover the damage.

Don’t do anything until [Mention]Chopper[/Mention] or [Mention]Retrofire[/Mention] chime in though.

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Damn, well that's unfortunate turn of events. I don't see a lot of options for repair and I don't think it will be very easy to remove the dog bone and move it down without further tearing.

I have no experience with using vinyl or leather fillers, but at this point, there's no harm in giving it a try as an experiment.

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I ordered me some leather filler, tools, sandpaper, and some paint and will attempt to fix this up this weekend. Hoping with patience, time, and some weathering luck, I can pull this off!

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Fingers crossed! Have you considered taking the boots to a cobbler?


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32 minutes ago, OnkelPaschulke said:

Fingers crossed! Have you considered taking the boots to a cobbler?


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Nope. I've been actually looking for a cobbler for outside of cosplaying but they are harder to come by these days.

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Andy, have you checked with any local leather workers or even a leather workers forum?  It's tough to tell from the photo you posted, but it looks like there is a) some minor damage to the leather on the toecap, which can likely be filled, and b) that the rough part where the dogbone meets the toecap is remnant of the dogbone that wasn't removed, more so than a torn up toecap.  A leather worker might be able to offer some suggestions or techniques for repairing the surface and removing the torn up remainder of the dogbone that glued to the toecap.  If you have a local Tandy Shop, they may be able to offer some suggestions, as some of their employees are also leather working hobbyists and professionals. 

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10 minutes ago, AradunFF said:

Andy, have you checked with any local leather workers or even a leather workers forum?  It's tough to tell from the photo you posted, but it looks like there is a) some minor damage to the leather on the toecap, which can likely be filled, and b) that the rough part where the dogbone meets the toecap is remnant of the dogbone that wasn't removed, more so than a torn up toecap.  A leather worker might be able to offer some suggestions or techniques for repairing the surface and removing the torn up remainder of the dogbone that glued to the toecap.  If you have a local Tandy Shop, they may be able to offer some suggestions, as some of their employees are also leather working hobbyists and professionals. 

Thank you for the suggestions!

I spent last night examining and cleaning up the injury. The fuzzies that you see is actually not the remnants of the dogbone, but the actual toecap leather. I was hoping it was as you stated, that way the material can be easily removed. Basically the glue between the dogbone and toecap picked up the top finished surface of the toecap and ripped that up along with it. My hope is to resurface the toecap with the filler, then sand it down, gently white spray and blend the area, and finally do some weathering.

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Bummer.  What white spray are you using?  Post it up here so that the armorers can chime in on whether or not it may cause issues.  I only ask because some sprays may not hold up to the flex of the leather and may crack.  Angelus Leather Paint is a great product and it's what I used to paint a pair of black leather boots white for my TK.  It doesn't go on too thick, so applying it with a sponge and layering it on may help you to better blend it into the existing boot and then the weathering would hide/cover up any imperfections. 

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I was hoping some generic white fabric/vinyl spray will be good enough. The leather fill I got is also white and there will be some weather as well. Will be using the white spray as little as possible.

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I wouldn't worry too much about paints right now. Let's see whether or not you can feasibly repair that torn portion with the leather fill and see how it goes. If it resurfaces well enough to pass basic clearance, and hopefully it does, then we can start thinking about the best paints to use.

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OK! Here we go!

I spent my weeknights and this morning to salvage the boot in question. I think it turned out pretty decently but please do let me know if this will pass Level 2.  I am willing and ready to purchase a new boot setup if it won't pass Lancer -- thinking Crowprops base and wrapping it on my own.

This was my arsenal for the week.

  • Black paint for weathering
  • Two types of white vinyl paints
  • Sandpaper
  • Tape
  • Precision knife
  • Wide brush
  • Tiny and normal scissors
  • Leather filler in white 
  • Offset spatula

ACH10874.jpg?raw=1

Leather filler was from Leather World Tech from Virginia.
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The two vinyl spray cans are from Rust-Oleum and SM Arnold. SM Arnold was the clear winner. Not just by color and finish, the nozzle was infinitely better at spray distribution.

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Here I cleaned up the area with the knife.
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This is after multiple sessions of filler application and sanding.
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Here it is painted with the SM Arnold white vinyl spray paint, hitting the areas that needed it.
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And this is with the black weathering applied. For the shaft, I used my already painted holster to hit the areas that would match once the holster was mounted in place.
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Here is a super close up of the area in question.
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So yeah, please give me the cold hard truth if these will pass Lancer. If yes, great! I'll work on the other boot. And if not, I'll move forward with getting supplies for the new boots. I'll still probably finish up the other boot so I have something to use for Halloween!

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Hey Andy, you've done a really great job restoring that nasty gouge mark.

Right now though, rather than asking about Lancer, I recommend that you check back with the OLG GMLs in the build thread on the local forums to make sure that your repairs will pass basic clearance -- remember, you can't apply for Lancer until you get cleared and become a 501st member!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Updates!

It looks like my botched boots will pass Basic so I went ahead and finished the other boot for a completed set. In addition, I ordered some Crowprops short boots and some recommended marine vinyl so I can make it properly on my own for Lancer. At the very least, the Crowprops boots will be more aligned to my foot size since the smallest IB boot is still a bit big on me.

I'm still finishing up adjusting the flak vest sleeve which the tailor will be done later this week. I've already made a new cod piece and a new bund is half way there -- just waiting for the vest to come back so I can get the bund sizing right. Hoping I can have these done in the next week or two. I think after that, I'll be ready for some photos and sending it off for Basic approval!

I used some simple hardware to fasten the magnet to the holster from DV's EC17.
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From below:
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From above:
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Holster completed:
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This second boot surgery went much better!
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I was also informed that my helmet was sitting a bit too high and that my chin cup was showing. After some adjustments, it's now sitting well with no chin cup showing.
existentialScout.jpg?raw=1

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Dude that’s great news on the boots! What a save! I’m happy things worked out for ya. These little adjustments you’re making look great!

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ACH10947.jpg?raw=1

A quick update!

  • The Flak Vest is back and is as good as it can be.
  • I finished my new cod piece and at 1/2" narrower, it fits me proportionately now!
  • I've been working on a new cummerbund and hopefully will get that finished by the end of the week. The pouches will sit better once the new cummerbund is done.
  • My right shoulder bell is flopping about and I found that the attachment point to the shoulder bridge has weakened.

My plan is to get the cummerbund finished by this weekend and if weather permits, do a quick weather to the cummerbund, pouches, and cod piece. I'd also like to get the one shoulder bell mounted better. I think I am a few weeks away from taking photos for Basic Approval!

Question about the chin cup. Previously my chin cup would show pretty obviously below the face mask (as you probably noticed before). I've adjusted it and it's certainly a lot better now, but it still shows a tiny bit if you look for it -- the side profile is a little more prevalent. What is acceptable?

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Frankly, just from the one photo you posted, I think you can probably apply for basic right now. 

Re: your chin cup. Remember that the chin cup is totally optional, so you don't even need to have it as a part of your helmet. 

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6 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Frankly, just from the one photo you posted, I think you can probably apply for basic right now. 

Re: your chin cup. Remember that the chin cup is totally optional, so you don't even need to have it as a part of your helmet. 

Thanks. I've already reached out to my GML and am in the process of moving forward with Basic.

Since my chin cup is already installed, I'm not compelled to take it off for Basic. And because it's already on, I'd love to know more about it (like where it should be sitting, etc).

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Generally the chin cup should not be visible from the outside, but there's a little bit of allowable leeway, IMO.

Your chin cup isn't super visible from the front. How visible is it from the sides? Can we see?

Let me ask you another question, is it the back part of the chin cup that's primarily sticking out underneath?

The RS cup is cut fairly large and I wonder if the back part of it is causing part of the issue. 

 

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