Jeremy's New Scout ... Hopefully

[jdouce45]

Hello All,

I am in the initial phase of starting my scout build.  This will be my first project with the goal of basic approval followed up with Lancer if possible.  I'll be riding the coat tails of AradunFF using his build thread as my playbook.  I want to thank him for his detail and organization which has already saved so much time and effort. 

I have already purchased most of the items needed, lacking just a few which will arrive sometime this week.  I've opened everything up and tried on the pieces that I can.  I'll be tackling the boots first since that is the part that scares me the most.  I've performed the cust on the first boot and will be posting pictures for input shortly.  

I want to thank any and all that take the time to look over my progress and provide input, positive or negative, as I want this project to be successful.  I'm quite excited to (hopefully soonish) be trying for 501st membership and proud that it will be as a scout, which may be the first Imperial character that I really loved back in '83. 

Amazon
    Kolossos Overalls   
    Black balaclava
    2" Hook and Loop (Velcro): Black
    2" Hook and Loop (Velcro): White
    2" Black Elastic Band
    Kingshow 1366 Boots: size 10
    Elastic Laces
    1.5" White Elastic Band
    1" Black Elastic Band
    1/2" Black Elastic Band

Joanns
    White Duck Cloth for Pouches
    Black T-Shirt (Flak Vest pattern) XL (order one size up from your normal T-Shirt).  
    100% Black Cotton Fabic 1.5 yds (Flak Vest)
    2 yds Cotton Sateen Fabric for Cummerbund

Tandy Leather - done
    Black Pigskin Suede Split   
    Barge

Wampawear
        RC    Wampawear Scout Gloves: Lg.

Marine Vinyl:
    Bought 4 yards which may be enough for several sets
    Source: https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=23064337926
   
NegativeEleven (pathfinders forum):
    Budget Blaster EC-17 Hold-out blaster
 

SC Armor Kit
SC Helmet Kit
 

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Tasklist

• Boots - completed
• Holster- completed
• Knee Armour - completed
• Thermal Detonator- completed
• Belt- completed
• Pouches - completed
• Cod Piece- completed
• Cummerbund- completed
• Back - completed
• Chest - completed
• Vest - completed
• Gloves - completed
• Forearm armour - completed
• Upper arm armour- completed
• Shoulder armour - completed
• Flight Suit - 90% - completed
• Balaclava - completed
• Helmet- completed

 

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[jdouce45]

First boot attempt using the following tutorial:

 

I started by drawing the pattern shown in the Crowprops photograph here: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-boots-accurate-soles

but after seeing it all laid out it seemed to lose the visual appeal, not to mention that there was ALOT more tiny boxes to cut out.  After the first heel I got intimidated and decided to go for the larger blocks instead of the full horizontal rib all the way around.  Will this successfully pass basic and then possibly Lancer?  I'll either be working the other over for the rest of the week, so maybe by the weekend it will be time to do the vinyl.

 

 

 

 

 

[Aradun]

Hey Jeremy! Welcome to the best detachment in the Legion and thanks for the kudos! You’ll find many Scouts here eager to help you succeed! Looking forward to seeing your progress and feel free to hit me up with any questions you may about my WIP along the way. I’m really excited for you and great choice for your first build to join the Legion.


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[Aradun]

Nice job on the sole! You’ll be fine for basic because there’s no requirement for the soles to be cut. The fact you’re cutting them is one less thing you’ll have to do for L2 certification, and they look good to me for L2. I’m sure an armorer will be along to confirm once they see your post.

[Chopper]

Hello Jeremy and welcome!

I think your boots will be fine for basic clearance. If you're interested in Level 2, then I am a little concerned about the boot cuts around the toe area -- from the angle in the photos, it looks like they're quite deep and there's not much tread underneath the cuts? Do you have additional photos?

Really, all we're primarily looking for with level 2 is that the vertical cuts look generally right and that they're done neatly. We know the Sierra sneaker doesn't exist anymore, so an exact copy of the pattern with all the horizontal indents and such isn't necessary.

Again, for basic clearance the cuts shouldn't be an issue. Please keep sharing your build as it progresses.

One other thing to note -- the NegativeEleven holdout blaster is about 10% bigger than the standard blaster. If you're a bigger person, then it should scale ok in terms of size, but keep in mind that it was originally based off of the Kenner Blaster from the 80s. The SC holster is larger than usual, so it should fit ok.

 

 

[jdouce45]

I do see what you are referring to.  Initially I was trying to recreate the front pattern on the Sierra sole which is captured fairly well in this photo from Crowprops, but ran into a slight issue when I changed to the larger lugs.  I had a choice, either have an odd rhythm with the teeth on the outside or a larger horizontal section.  I made my choice which may have been a mistake.  Luckily these are fairly cheap in the scheme of this costume if I need to get another pair on the way.  Below are a couple of additional photos and the image from Crowprops I was using.

 

 

 

[Chopper]

Yeah and the underlying tread spacing is another reason that, for Level 2, we are only looking for boot cuts that are "generally close" to the sierra sneakers vs asking for an exact replica of the sole pattern. If you can pull it off, great! If not, don't stress about trying for an exact match.

I suggest you take a look at the various Lancer applications from 2020 or 2019 to get a sense of what's expected for boots (and everything else): http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/51-lancer-deployment-request/

One final tip -- the cuts in the sole really don't need to be all that deep -- for the most part you're taking about 1/8" of so. If you have a chisel blade for your exacto knife, that can help a great deal.

[jdouce45]

After looking this over quite a bit, I'm not happy with it as well.  I did not succeed in what I was trying to achieve and it is now going to bug me forever unless it is fixed.  So...new pair of boots has been ordered and Mistake #1 on this project is out of the way.  I still have the Right boot, so I will continue on it until the new pair arrive on Saturday!

[jdouce45]

I'm much happier with the second try on the boots.  I learned alot on cutting these.

 

[Chopper]

Yeah that looks a lot better.  Nice work.

[Aradun]

Perfect!


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[jdouce45]

My left boot is assembled, except for the dogbone.  The sewing machine is a little intimidating but I think it turned out anyway. 

 

[Chopper]

Excellent work

[Aradun]

Looking sharp Jeremy!


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[jdouce45]

Dogbone question:  I've been looking over various sources and there are alot of variations on the dogbone length.  Some tutorials have it extend down about 3/16ths over the sole, where the CRL images have it right up against the skinny trim that goes around the toe.  Which is the correct one?  I'm leaning toward the CRL image I've seen, but its such a drastic difference from other images that it has me second guessing.  I picked a compromise between the extremes below and have them pinned up until I find some clarification.  Thanks!

 

[Aradun]

Hey Jeremy, keep in mind that the CRL is comprised of not just the written description but also the images. They go hand in hand, so your leaning towards the CRL image is spot on as those images will take precedent over any other images you come across. I’m sure an armorer will confirm so wait to hear from Chopper or Retrofire before gluing anything down.


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[Chopper]

12 hours ago, jdouce45 said:

Dogbone question:  I've been looking over various sources and there are alot of variations on the dogbone length.  Some tutorials have it extend down about 3/16ths over the sole, where the CRL images have it right up against the skinny trim that goes around the toe.  Which is the correct one?  I'm leaning toward the CRL image I've seen, but its such a drastic difference from other images that it has me second guessing.  I picked a compromise between the extremes below and have them pinned up until I find some clarification.  Thanks!

 

Jeremy, the red line marker where you have the dog bone seated right now will be fine. The primary issue some folks have had with their dog bones for level 2 is when they've glued the dog bone to the tan sole itself. That's not an issue where you have the dogbone situated right now, so you're good.

[jdouce45]

Boots done!  I'm really glad those are over with, but glad you guys were able to steer me in the right direction.

Next up will be the flight suit.  I'll post images as soon as I have some progress to talk over or decisions to make.

[jdouce45]

Suit is getting close to done.  Have tapered the legs and arms to fit better as it was quite large on me.  Shortened the legs and added elastic stirrups to help with bunching between the boot top and knee armour.  Have removed the back pockets and the additional side pocket added to the Kolossus brand coveralls that isn't on the RedKap coveralls.  Have sewn the front pockets at the waist shut so they don;t open when bending over and stay smooth.  And I'm about to start on the riding patches.

I am on the fence a little on the collar height.  I used the existing collar and scabbed on some of the length to complete the mandarin style collar as shown in several tutorials.  First, how does it look quality wise, is it supposed to be this tall, and just how tight is it supposed to fit around your neck?  I can add an additional velcro strip to make it tighter if need be.  I'll post some photos of me in it for the last question once the patches have been added.

 

 

[Chopper]

In terms of quality, your collar looks fine. You basically just want your collar to fit well (in other words, not grossly oversized) and feel comfortable when you wear it. There are no specific requirements for height or how tight it needs to be -- it just needs to conceal your neck in conjunction with your balaclava.

 

[jdouce45]

I'm switching over to the pouch, cummerbund, cod piece assembly for a bit.  It seems in order to determine the riding patch size and placement, these items that lay on top are necessary to have otherwise it is beyond me to predict where they will lie accurately.  So once these are done I'll be going back to the suit.  I still lack the riding patches, butt flap and elastic straps.  In the meantime, can I get an opinion on this pouch?  I've used a combination of the following links to work out how to build them.  It took a couple of tries to understand how they went together and get what I think is a usable pouch.

 

And now mine:  A plastic box has been created to fill out the pouch and show its dimensions.  If it is impractical to leave in and still use the pouches I may cut them in half height wise as AradunFF did in his build, but I'll wait and see.

[Chopper]

Pouch looks good!

[jdouce45]

The second pouch and the cummerbund is done.  I've not attached them together, still mulling over how I'm going to do it.  I'm afraid I missed the opportunity to add velcro to the tabs on the boxes.  They are pinned on the cummerbund in the proper location.

[Aradun]

I'm afraid I missed the opportunity to add velcro to the tabs on the boxes.  They are pinned on the cummerbund in the proper location.

Looks great Jeremy. Well done! Keep in mind that the tabs will be covered by your chest armor so you can still add the Velcro if you want, as the stitching on the tabs won’t be seen.


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[Chopper]

11 hours ago, jdouce45 said:

The second pouch and the cummerbund is done.  I've not attached them together, still mulling over how I'm going to do it.  I'm afraid I missed the opportunity to add velcro to the tabs on the boxes.  They are pinned on the cummerbund in the proper location.

If you are concerned about stitch marks on the front side of the pouch tabs, you can always sew the velcro along the sides and top edges, leaving the bottom edge free. The pouches will still adhere just fine like that. And as Dennis said, the tops of the tabs are hidden by the chest armor anyhow.