NegativeEleven's build

[NegativeEleven]

Guess it's time to start getting opinions on this thing. This is where I was 2 months ago. Got a little sidetracked by a plumbing problem flooding the living room end of July. I just started pulling everything I own out of the pile in the spare bedroom, so I could get back to work.

I know forearms won't pass. The details are too soft. I'm still dreading the back/collar assembly and deciding what to do with straps. I am waiting for shins. Intergalactic Supply is working on molds for those. 

I got ambitious over the weekend and painted helmet and hand plates.

Helmet questions: Should the deep indents just outside the tears under the eyes be painted black? Should the little notches next to the snout be drilled out or just painted black inside? What about the little indents above the eyes or under the back ridge?

[BikerScout007]

57 minutes ago, NegativeEleven said:

Helmet questions: Should the deep indents just outside the tears under the eyes be painted black? Should the little notches next to the snout be drilled out or just painted black inside? What about the little indents above the eyes or under the back ridge?

Indents under the eye:  Don't paint black, just layer lots of weathering here.

Notches next to snout:  You can drill out but you don't need to.  Don't paint black, just layer lots of weathering

Indents above eye:  Paint black

Indents in the back above the edge:  Paint black.

[NegativeEleven]

Not the lower back ones that I circled?

[BikerScout007]

48 minutes ago, NegativeEleven said:

Not the lower back ones that I circled?

Yes that's what I meant by "Indents in the back above the edge:  Paint black."

[NegativeEleven]

Oops... looking at reference pics, the bottom edge is also black, right? Hmmm. May need to tape up and spray paint that. Got all the indents done with a tiny brush.

[NegativeEleven]

Got this $10 lens from CycleGear. About to trim it down to fit. It's not quite dark enough (very close to my Scout helmet), but with the huge forehead it should be dark enough inside to hide my eyes. I am also thinking about a layer of black fabric mesh behind the lens. Kylo Ren's helmet is done with just mesh and no lens. I recently made a Snake Eyes visor and just used mesh on clear plastic instead of window film tinted or dye.

How do you guys like that JJ Abrams lens flare in the pic?

[NegativeEleven]

Got lens installed. 2 layers of window screen behind it to make it darker. The little acrylic I used to touch up paint looked very similar to sahara beige, until I sprayed the whole thing with a flat clear coat. Somehow, that made the 2 colors very different. Still think some weathering will smooth it out.

This lens flare was intentional to show the lens curve. 😄

[NegativeEleven]

I have 2 backplate here and need to decide which to use. I've done some work on this one, and I think it's passable, but would love the opinion of someone more experienced. 

I might gave made the indent circle on top too big. I just sort of guessed for the placement of raised details and placement of the tiny holes, based on some reference pics. 

 

The other backplate I have is a bad vac-pull, with some rough texture on the side. That's fixable. A bigger problem is that it doesn't have the raised boxes for shoulder straps. The detail of the 2 large openings isn't as good. It is a little bigger overall, and has a much smaller circle on top. 

[ScaryGuy]

20 hours ago, NegativeEleven said:

I have 2 backplate here and need to decide which to use. I've done some work on this one, and I think it's passable, but would love the opinion of someone more experienced. 

I might gave made the indent circle on top too big. I just sort of guessed for the placement of raised details and placement of the tiny holes, based on some reference pics. 

The other backplate I have is a bad vac-pull, with some rough texture on the side. That's fixable. A bigger problem is that it doesn't have the raised boxes for shoulder straps. The detail of the 2 large openings isn't as good. It is a little bigger overall, and has a much smaller circle on top. 

It’s passable but it could use some more cleanup. The left shoulder box has a pull issue, may you can remove and fill it. You could also add the recessed slots at the same time 😉. The side also seems to have a curve that shouldn’t be there, maybe some filler will smooth that.

I agree the top circle ident is too big.

 

The center greeblies are also quite thick, although passable. I recommend taking measurements from reference pictures, then scale it to your actual armor size.

 

[NegativeEleven]

I am aware of the webbing on the shoulder box. I filled with an epoxy so I can cut that out. For center greeblies, I wanted the curved sides to be perfect, so I cut the ends off a popsicle stick and made one short stick, then put a bolt we with similar sized head below it. I see they're a little big. I'll keep an eye out for a shape to replace with eventually. 

If top circle is too big (not approvable), then maybe I just need to take the shoulder boxes off and merge with the other backplate I have here. Or take top of that backpack and try to fit it here. Side curve is kind of an optical illusion from the diagonal line in top corner. At certain angles, there's a bit of a dip visible down the whole side, but standing straight up, you mostly just see that line that cuts across from the top corner to the backplate. I could actually use that line to cut out the top of the backpack to swap in the other one and enhance that line. 

Are the recesses by the shoulder boxes a requirement? I feel like those are artifacts from the original vac-form mold, that allowed the shoulder boxes to pull tighter.

Any suggestions for a vendor who can get me a collar?

[ScaryGuy]

11 hours ago, NegativeEleven said:

I am aware of the webbing on the shoulder box. I filled with an epoxy so I can cut that out. For center greeblies, I wanted the curved sides to be perfect, so I cut the ends off a popsicle stick and made one short stick, then put a bolt we with similar sized head below it. I see they're a little big. I'll keep an eye out for a shape to replace with eventually. 

If top circle is too big (not approvable), then maybe I just need to take the shoulder boxes off and merge with the other backplate I have here. Or take top of that backpack and try to fit it here. Side curve is kind of an optical illusion from the diagonal line in top corner. At certain angles, there's a bit of a dip visible down the whole side, but standing straight up, you mostly just see that line that cuts across from the top corner to the backplate. I could actually use that line to cut out the top of the backpack to swap in the other one and enhance that line. 

Are the recesses by the shoulder boxes a requirement? I feel like those are artifacts from the original vac-form mold, that allowed the shoulder boxes to pull tighter.

Any suggestions for a vendor who can get me a collar?

I think the circle is approvable but ultimately that is your GML’s decision. Maybe you can find a ring with a smaller diameter and glue that inside and fill the remaining gap.

The recesses by the shoulder box are a level 2 requirement, so optional if you’re aiming for basic. The original costume is not vac formed, these recesses are an intentional design choice.

No suggestion for the collar. Like Mickey said, the collar on the various kits are very different so it’s not likely to get them to fit without modification. So I would just modify the collar that came with your kit. I used plastic bumper filler to modify my BSP collar and make it solid. I use magnets to connect it to the chest.

 

 

 

 

 

[NegativeEleven]

These two each came with a collar, and they seem interchangeable. Both were just formed so weak, that after cutting off the flared bottom, they're not going to be tall enough.

Here's the 2nd backplate.

I don't like the shorter under arm wings and all that texture from overheating. The windows where detail pieces go are softer, and don't have that inner "step" like the one I already primed. Also, the boxes for shoulder straps seem like a place where there's gonna be stress and if I fabricate those, there's gonna be seams that will need to be filled every few months. I think I can chop off just the top of the backpack part and combine it with the other to get a the smaller top circle and more defined grooves, since those seams are supposed to be visible.

[NegativeEleven]

Swapped the top and made those raised details smaller. Oh, and I got rid of the webbing on the shoulder box.

Photo taken strategically to show the contents of my garage 😉

[NegativeEleven]

Really struggling with this collar. I have skimmed other WIP threads, but I am not seeing a lot of info about it. How rigid should it be? How exact does the front on the chest armor need to line up? Does it mount inside or on top of the back armor?

I think this one I have is garbage, but no one wants to recommend another vendor to me. I am thinking about putting the armor securely on a mannequin and trying to craft a new collar from EVA foam. This looks to be 1/2 inch wide, although most other people's builds and the reference photos I have seem thinner. Are there guidelines somewhere for the height/thickness it needs to be?

First pics on me (flipped left/right because of camera) before I trimmed more off the bottom.

And after trimming the bottom a bit to get that curve closer, but the tips are still curved inward and not aligned with chest armor. Can't do much to that with a heat gun without completely ruining the shape.

This has been the part of this armor that has made me procrastinate more than anything else. It needs to be so precise (it's gonna be in every photo), but the wonky 3rd hand kit I have here, and the lack of info available about putting this together really make me hesitate to work on it out of fear I'm gonna mess it up. I've scratch-built a complete Boba Fett. I've got my own homemade vac-form setup and molds to create multi-piece helmets, holsters, gauntlets, etc. I can do that stuff, but this seems ridiculously complex because it has to match up front/back while not being permanently attached since it is so tight around the neck it will be impossible to put on or take off.

[BikerScout007]

Like I said in your collar post, they vary depending on the kit.  With my KW kit, the collar is made of rubber and is designed to be permanently glued to the back armor while inserting into slots into the chest armor.  Yours isn't built that way so I'm not exactly sure what the best move would be.  Yes, it has to be detachable because there is no way to get your head through it if you glue it in place to the chest.  

Maybe if you can permanently attach to the back armor and velcro or use magnets to hold it in place on the chest?  

@ScaryGuy @KOtrooper any thoughts?

[ScaryGuy]

To correct the tips you can make a small cut on the outside and top of the collar, then you can bend the collar outwards  to the correct angle.  Glue some abs inside to fixate the angle. 
I had to do this too on my BSP collar, although I had to correct it in the opposite direction so my cut is on the inside of the collar.

To adjust the height of the tips make a template using cardboard or paper and cut abs pieces and glue them inside the collar. Then fill everything with a follar. I recommend gluing magnets in the tips, I works perfectly to lock the collar to the chest.

 

[NegativeEleven]

39 minutes ago, ScaryGuy said:

To correct the tips you can make a small cut on the outside and top of the collar, then you can bend the collar outwards  to the correct angle.  Glue some abs inside to fixate the angle. 
I had to do this too on my BSP collar, although I had to correct it in the opposite direction so my cut is on the inside of the collar.

To adjust the height of the tips make a template using cardboard or paper and cut abs pieces and glue them inside the collar. Then fill everything with a follar. I recommend gluing magnets in the tips, I works perfectly to lock the collar to the chest.

 

Doing all of that, it seems easier to create a new one that's one solid piece. But, thanks for the pic. Good to see it's not as tall as I was thinking.

Spent my morning installing a helmet fan while procrastinating over the collar. I love how much space there is in this helmet. Could put a dozen fans and batteries in there.

[NegativeEleven]

Ok, some more progress. I got the collar securely attached to the backplate. It lines up in front with some magnets and I also added strip of ABS in each side that locks it down into the chest grooves and keeps it from sliding back. Magnets aren't quite enough, although with the shoulder straps in place, they might work alone. Do people put velcro on the flaps under the arms or just let that float like TK's do?

I asked Intergalactic Supply about forearms and shins when he sent me the backplate that I used half of. I know he does TK armor, so I thought I could just get those forearms. They'd probably pass, and the ones I had here were clearly just some original TK ones. Looking at the reference pics and other builds, I see the Rogue One TK forearms are different, sharper corners, more defined. That's what Death Troopers and Shore Troopers use. Well I looked at 850's website and saw 6-8 month delivery time for new orders and decided to just get my hands dirty and make these right.

I cut out the raised ladder part (if it could be called that, cause the vac-form was so soft). I made a new ladder from 3/8" and 1/2" wood dowels. I coated with lots of filler primer and made a mold. Then cast a couple out of Smoothcast 65. I merged that with the original forearms I had using epoxacoat and some spot putty. Now I'm just waiting on Intergalactic Supply to get around to making some shins for me.

Filled front and back with some bondo and I clearly have more sanding to do before I call these complete. Getting close though.

[NegativeEleven]

Been painting this week. Did it the way I have done Mandalorian armor in the past. Painted it all dark walnut, then masked damage with toothpaste before painting Sahara beige. I should have done the shoulder stripes and yellow on bicep before removing the masking, but I got impatient. 

I'm told my shins from Intergalactic Supply will be here this week. Imperial Surplus didn't want to sell me the shins alone, and I already have usable fronts, straps and buckles. 850's website also lists all shin parts as one and says to expect 8-12 weeks for orders. Shins are the last pieces I have been waiting on, so it's looking like this might get done soon. It's about 2 weeks shy of one-year since I bought this box of armor.

Questions for people more familiar with this suit, since it's rare that I see them in person....

Is my shirt too light (pic in first post)? I have grey dye left over from making Boba Fett gloves, so I could try to darken it. 

Is my collar looking right? That was such a chore, but it lines up with the front as best as I could get it. How about placement of buckles on chest? 

Did I get the forearm shape right?

[Aradun]

Nice job with the paint and weathering! Looks really good and I’m glad to hear that the last piece of the puzzle is arriving this week! That’s great news. Looking forward to seeing you all suited up. It’s the home stretch brother!

[ScaryGuy]

14 hours ago, NegativeEleven said:

I'm told my shins from Intergalactic Supply will be here this week. Imperial Surplus didn't want to sell me the shins alone, and I already have usable fronts, straps and buckles. 850's website also lists all shin parts as one and says to expect 8-12 weeks for orders. Shins are the last pieces I have been waiting on, so it's looking like this might get done soon. It's about 2 weeks shy of one-year since I bought this box of armor.

Questions for people more familiar with this suit, since it's rare that I see them in person....

Is my shirt too light (pic in first post)? I have grey dye left over from making Boba Fett gloves, so I could try to darken it. 

Is my collar looking right? That was such a chore, but it lines up with the front as best as I could get it. How about placement of buckles on chest? 

Did I get the forearm shape right?

Yes, I think the shirt should be darker. Compare it with this picture:

The collar and buckle placement looks good, good job on that!

The shoretrooper forearms have 12 recesses as stated in the CRL, yours have 10.

 

[NegativeEleven]

Damn. I was just looking at the spacing on the recesses that were on there originally, not worrying about the number. 

[NegativeEleven]

I brag about how great Smooth-On EpoxAcoat is, but having to cut it out is a chore. This stuff is hard!

[NegativeEleven]

12 indents. Got some filling to do after holidays. I'm traveling, but it's just gonna be me and mom at her place. 

[NegativeEleven]

I have been looking at these weird wedge shaped resin pieces in my armor box for months, wondering where they go. Finally clicked! Gotta trim them a bit thinner, it seems. 

Again, if you sell resin cast pieces with 3d print lines on them, you are a bad person and you should rethink your life decisions that led you to do that. Grrr. You poured silicone onto a piece to make multiple copies of it, and figured every one of those pieces should require finishing work rather than doing it once on the original. 😡

Also, I cannot figure out how to paint rubber straps in a way that doesn't flake off. Tips? Of course, I have rubber straps with 3d print lines on them, so I'm thinking about just replacing them all together. The ones I have are light brown, so paint flaking off looks very wrong.

Has anyone tried casting resin ridges with black nylon strapping behind em? Seems like that would look the same, be more flexible and hold paint better. Like, I'm thinking of the same mold you'd use to make straps, but you cast resin instead of rubber and lay strapping down where the back layer would go while resin is curing.