Aradun Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 (edited) Name: Dennis M. Mueller TKID: 60446 Garrison: Garrison Carida Armor: RS Propmasters Helmet: RS Propmasters Red Label Cummerbund: Self Made Cod Piece: Self Made Flak Jacket: Self Made Undersuit: Red Kap, Modified by Self Boots: Self Made using Cheesewhoopy Tutorial w/ Kingshow 1366 Water Resistant Boots as base Gloves: Wampa Wear Holdout Blaster: Darth Voorhees Props TD: RS Propmasters, modified by Self Forum WIP: Front: Front Arms Up: Left Side: Left Side Arms Up: Back: Back Side Arms Up: Right Side: Right Side Arms Up: Bucket Off: Action Shot: Helmet Lancer Verification: - Screen Accurate Snout Greeblie. - Snout recess is painted black. Lancer Verification: - No mesh material mounted in ears. - Area behind ears inside helmet is blacked out. Lancer Verification: - Helmet Bolts are Gray 3M w/concave centers, 22mm dia. Balaclava Flight Suit Front: Back: Lancer Verification: - Undersuit tailored to fit (see submission poses) Lancer Verification: - Elastic thigh straps 2” wide. - Thigh patches are real suede. Lancer Verification: - Butt patch is real suede, w/ no visible external stitching. Shoulder Armor Lancer Verification: - Bottom Corners are rounded. - Should bells affixed to shoulder joins with black zip ties. Lancer Verification: - Shoulder Armor secured around bicep with 1/2” black elastic strap. Upper Arm Armor (Bicep) Lancer Verification: - Film accurate T-Bit Greeblie with circle detail facing forward on each arm (see submission poses). - Armor secured around arm with 2” black elastic strap. Forearm Armor Lancer Verification: - Armor is secured around arm with 1” black elastic strap. Gloves Lancer Verification: - Fits wearer snugly with no flare (see submission poses). Flak Vest Front: Flak Vest Back: Lancer Verification: - Vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. - Sleeves do not flare under shoulder bells and extend no more than 1.5” past bottom edge of shoulder bell. (See submission poses). Chest Armor Lancer Verification: - Shoulder bridge is 1” wide white cotton elastic and covers the join betw. the front and back of the armor. Back Armor Lancer Verification: - Back and Tank armor are two separate parts. - 6 rank stripes. - Screen accurate tank topper greeblie separate from tank itself, secured with a single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Lancer Verification: - Tank has properly placed pin striping with a single bottom attachment rivet. Lancer Verification: - Optional: ½” elastic stap is anchored to the top and bottom tank rivets and loops around the inside back of the armor. Additional: Cummerbund Lancer Verification: - Cummberbund made from smooth white cotton sateen fabric, with no visible external stitching, and separate from the undersuit and vest. Lancer Verification: - CB ribs are 1” wide. Additional: Pouches Lancer Verification: - Pouches are made from white duck cloth and measure 6”H, 5”W, 2”D. - Bottom edge of the pouch flap is between 2” and 2.5” wide. Lancer Verification: - Pouches have an attachment tab that must be at least 2”H (tabs here are 2.75”)to attach to the CB. - Pouch attachment tab is same width as the pouch = 5” Lancer Verification: - Pouches are affixed to CB via the tabs and sit 1” from outermost CB rib on each side. Codpiece Lancer Verification: - Made from same fabric as CB. - Elastic strap is 2” - Codpiece and sewn curve conforms to shape in CRL and Costume Books. - Codpiece does not bunch around groin area (see submission poses). - Codpiece attaches to the Flak Vest via hook & loop. Belt Lancer Verification: - Belt is worn on the waist and not the hips (see submission poses). - Belt is one piece construction. Lancer Verification: - Belt has 2” nylon webbing attached to the belt in the back with one silver rivet on each side. Lancer Verification: - Dropbox straps are 1.5” and made of white cotton webbing. - Parachute buckles are non functional with the straps looped behind them. Thermal Detonator Lancer Verification: - TD endcaps are concave - TD has visible black clips attaching it to the belt. - TD tube is light gray. Knee Armor Lancer Verification: Lower strap is ¾” wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. Lancer Verification: - Upper strap is ½” wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor. Rivets are silver in color. Boots Left Outside: Right Inside: Lancer Verification: - Soles of boots are a single color with no visible stitching, and have slots cut in them as seen in the film. Additional: Holster: Lancer Verification: - Attached with 4 silver rivets. Lancer Verification: - Vents on holster are cut out. Optional Accessories: Hold-out Blaster Lancer Verification: - Lens dics are cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. - No decaled cross-hairs present Lancer Verification: - Barrel is solid (i.e., not drilled). I’m pretty sure I’ve got everything covered, but if I’m missing anything just let me know. I’m certain I’ll have a photo of it somewhere . Thanks Team! Edited August 12, 2020 by AradunFF Added forum link to WIP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Thanks for your application. The team will review it soon! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Dennis, We'd like to commend you for the excellent work you've done on your armor. You've done an outstanding job and you should be proud! I'd personally also like to commend you for how active you've been on the boards reaching out to new scouts and providing advice and encouragement. It's the hallmark of this detachment and you've really exemplified that. After a thorough review against the Lancer specs we have the following findings: Boot: You have some boot droop on that right boot. This is a common problem and is due to the weight of the holster and blaster. You can attach some elastic with hook and loop Velcro to the interior holster connections to help keep the boot shaft straight. Holster and Knee Rivets: The rivets used for these areas look oversized. The screen used versions used a 1/8" rivet and we recommend changing these rivets out with the proper sizes. Chopper has had experience in drilling out rivets and he recommends that you use 1/8" DeWalt Cobalt drill bit for removing aluminum rivets. He says that it goes through them like butter and should not heat the surrounding ABS. Tank Rivet location: The rivet on your tank assembly is much too low compared to the screen scouts. We recommend that you remove this rivet and relocate it closer to the location shown in the MoTM screen used armor in the pictures below. Again you should be proud of what you've accomplished so far. Your overall kit is excellently done. If you have any concerns or questions please feel free to reach out to us at anytime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 Thanks Pete and Team! I was like a little kid on Christmas Eve this past week waiting to hear back from you all. There’s like 43 views on my app and I think 40 of them are me LOL. Had my first troop today so hearing back from you today is the icing on the cake. It’s been a great scout day! Thanks for the accolades too! I’ve really come to love this costume and my experience with the detachment. “Best Detachment in the 501st” is 100% true in my books! No one’s blowing smoke when they make that claim here.Onto the recommendations...I actually have an elastic strap inside the boot to help with the dreaded boot droop. Clearly it’s not enough to do the job. I was talking to one of the guys in my garrison during a troop today and I think I might add a little Hook and Loop on the inside of the boot and undersuit to keep it up. Easy fix. Some questions regarding the rivets. 1. First, thanks for the photo comparison of the tank. I can see clearly that the rivet needs to be moved and to where. My questions for this one are what size rivet should I use and what’s the best way to cover up the former hole. I don’t have any extra white abs. I’m thinking a little Green Stuff would suffice with a dab of white paint, but want to check first. 2. The rivet size for the tank brings me to my second question. Are the rivets used in the knees and holster deal breakers for Lancer, that is, must they be replaced for approval? I’ve seen the 1/8” rivet recommendation in WIP discussions, but no specific size is noted in the CRL for basic or level 2 cert. I didn’t go with 1/8” for the holster only because RS used rivets with 5/16” heads on the entire kit and I wanted the holster to match.If they have to be changed out then I’m all over it and will get it done for sure, but it might be good to update the language in the CRL so that the desired 1/8” rivet is specified under the lancer specs. Currently it just specifies that they have to be silver in color under lancer specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 We are going to update the Lancer specs to include the specific rivet size for L2 because we know that's caused some confusion. However, the 1/8 rivets are used in the CRL photos and a CRL is text and images. Sometimes the text can't convey everything and that's where the pictures come in. Frankly it was never put in because it was never an issue until recently. Suddenly folks started using bigger rivets despite all the advice on the forum. So sometimes the CRL needs to catch up to where people are headed and steer them down the right path. Thanks for your understanding! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 Perfect Mickey. Good to know. I’ll get on those adjustments tomorrow. Thanks brother! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 7 hours ago, AradunFF said: 1. First, thanks for the photo comparison of the tank. I can see clearly that the rivet needs to be moved and to where. My questions for this one are what size rivet should I use and what’s the best way to cover up the former hole. I don’t have any extra white abs. I’m thinking a little Green Stuff would suffice with a dab of white paint, but want to check first. That should work just fine Dennis. Depending how porous the green stuff is you might want to seal it with with a think layer of CA glue before you paint it. We’re here for all the help you need to work this so let us know if you need anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Thanks Pete. The fixes are easy peasy. I’ll get on it tomorrow and hopefully repost by the end of the day. I’ll be sure to hit you guys up if I have any questions or run into anything unexpected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 17, 2020 Author Share Posted August 17, 2020 Round Two...Knee Armor Rivets changed out to 1/8”Holster Rivets changed out to 1/8”Tank rivet repositioned and replaced with 1/8” rivet.Hook & loop added to inside of boot and undersuit to add support to existing calve strap in order to address boot droop.If there’s anything I missed let me know and thanks again for helping to get things perfect! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Great work, bud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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