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RoTJ Biker Scout Lancer WIP


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Finished Thermal Detonator today, hopefully it is done right, i can loosen the zip tie or remove and get another one if the curve is too much on the tubing but tested it on my belt and it straightens out nicea2304287a23ef3c770f4904b7660c43a.jpg3d8a3405a9400b3efe03a56d5009dc76.jpg581545b22870f7a88c83cd65470a22ab.jpgcc239452db204f24477276e92b6ecec0.jpg5e0ad34eed5d937cb43e98302fc9535e.jpg8c79493d2974271446c1f9b0aa5aeeee.jpg8a7b794f3f324014e06756cc3c4259a2.jpg

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Ok so been finely tuning/filing the lid on the areas chopper marked out for me and I think I've got it as best as I can get it, please advise where else is needed also I didnt know how far the visor faceplate has to come up so I just did so i could get the lid off and on comfortably, I will be painting the inside black and attaching tactical airsoft helmet pads and the chin cup once painted on the outside ba981c317740991c954e27201424cb07.jpg2ca868c9944fa3d1a663bc5a78a18cef.jpga60af73a6b06cc0372c10463658d3c52.jpga7828bd65b4c963c5e0c27396c44e648.jpg7b86374eda898123d3428b02ec3ed365.jpg16aec84f2aa3f2514d2e8a084b083d6d.jpga607983cb92a1232da0c52ab1fff3919.jpg

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Hey Phil, for the top of the visor, you might want to trim the bottom of the "U" a bit more. Remember that filler primer and paint will add thickness to the dome portion. You don't want to scrape paint off every time you lift your visor up! As I showed in the screen used helmet photo, the margin between the dome and visor doesn't need to be razor thin, so you have some leeway to trim a bit more.

dometop.jpg

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I'm going to have to start again with the filler anyway, it hardened really quickly so didn't get chance to finish, rookie mistake I think!!!

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Ok so it wasn't as bad as I thought, been sanding smooth the main bucket, using 120 then 240, then 400 grit paper, got some 800 grit now to do all over the bucket before masking up and priming!!!! Pictures don't do it justice but trust me its smooth as silk even though it looks like there are little pockmarks, there aren't!!a9351d93eb90e05d06dcfd9c4ef2301c.jpg9318dcb82f99f10f8ed78eea070bad2c.jpgba63a78ad66ecda0166f046732b5fb7e.jpg4e102743ce9cc782e2e30604444e19b0.jpgfad00ec4815038d2bba3e45def5f1263.jpg

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Looking forward to seeing your primer on this. We’ve been seeing quite a few paint issues cropping up in the build forums so make sure you have good compatible paint/primer products and give yourself plenty of drying/cure time between coats.

Oh and not sure of the English weather but watch that humidity too

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Looking forward to seeing your primer on this. We’ve been seeing quite a few paint issues cropping up in the build forums so make sure you have good compatible paint/primer products and give yourself plenty of drying/cure time between coats.
Oh and not sure of the English weather but watch that humidity too
What sort of problems? I'm using grey plastic primer for cars45a39fdee010583a7fc50a9c21df53b7.jpg

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The issues Pete is describing are related to incompatibility between primer and glossy top coats. Incompatibility between paint types can lead to crackling or crazing in the paint. 

If you've already selected your top coat you can do a test on some sheet plastic. Spray some primer, let it dry completely, then spray your top coat as if you were painting your helmet. 

Watch for reactions and go from there. 

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Ok so i went over once on this spare piece of abs with the grey primer its been drying since last night and have just done one pass with the ford diamond white, gonna let that dry till tomorrow and will have a look, now when I am zooming in on that pic I notice tiny little holes, is that normal?c3c5c66c0d0bff1a88a475f3442bc499.jpg

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Hmmm, it doesn't look like there's any crackling reactions, which is good. It's hard to tell though, the bumpiness underneath could just be from unsanded primer? Pete, what do you think? @Retrofire

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Hmmm, it doesn't look like there's any crackling reactions, which is good. It's hard to tell though, the bumpiness underneath could just be from unsanded primer? Pete, what do you think? [mention=78900]Retrofire[/mention]
That was just one pass with the rattle can, I didnt spray full on just like short bursts oll go over it again later

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On 8/8/2020 at 12:33 PM, Chopper said:

Hmmm, it doesn't look like there's any crackling reactions, which is good. It's hard to tell though, the bumpiness underneath could just be from unsanded primer? Pete, what do you think? @Retrofire

It may be that you’re a bit too far away when you spray and what could be happening is that the primer droplets are drying as soon as they hit the surface causing that “dusting” effect. You can knock that down with some scotchbrite. I would also recommend that you wipe your bucket down with some isopropyl alchohol to clean any sanding dust or oils off before you shoot it with primer. Once the primer dries check the surface and correct any issues with sandpaper or scotchbrite before shooting your first white coat. Ensuring the base layers are clean and smooth will make for a nice final product.

Chopper hit the nail on the head with suggesting that you do a few test shoots on scrap before you shoot your bucket. You’ve done some fine sanding work on that and we don’t want you to have to redo it.

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I will do, I went over the bucket with a jeyes cloth and some water to get rid of any dust havent applied any primer yet though

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5 hours ago, Philscratch said:

I will do, I went over the bucket with a jeyes cloth and some water to get rid of any dust havent applied any primer yet though

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Oh then you should be fine with that. You just want to make sure your surface is dust free before you shoot your primer. Follow the recommended can distance from your work and give it time to dry/cure before shooting the next layer and you should be fine. Keep those great questions coming!

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I'm after some advice regarding my tank and back plate please, its been bugging me for a few days now, started on it whilst primer was curing but I'm struggling to get the thing to sit flush, I know there was a gap in the screen used tanks but I'm a stickler for precision so any advice would be greatly appreciated, are we allowed to use filler along the sides and bottom of the tank?3838fe9150833125937f53ebd900f4f5.jpg5a7ad77d1e60fb938f8f3249b4d3420c.jpg691631489afc052745291e09152712bd.jpgd27b6213b1fe84eeabe12eb4d124bf88.jpg1104df8161627cfa5367e8d9e6de53e7.jpg29760270dfd3505ebbb8564881f9278a.jpgea3d69de1435c6363e886fbf187df1bc.jpg

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Off the bat, I'm going to tell you not to use filler to attach the tank. It should remain two separate pieces, b/c that's the way it was on screen.

If you don't want it super loose, there are some tricks you can do to secure it, beyond the 1/2" strap:

I cut two slots on the back armor and fed velcro tabs through from the inside of the tank, to the inside of the back armor. Using tabs to secure the tank keeps it fitted flush and prevents anything from flopping around.

lADme1L.jpg

 

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