Philscratch Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 I used gorilla glueSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Hmmm, Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane adhesive. You may be able to pop the greeb off by inserting a small flathead screwdriver underneath, just be careful with it and don't force anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 Ive ordered a small green stuff kit from amazon, i might be able to fix it without taking the greeblie offSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Yeah so what I would do is use masking tape to tape around the greeblies covering the bicep armor. Apply the green stuff with something disposable and flat like a spare piece of ABS or a thin piece of wood (think tongue depressor) and smooth it level with he rest of the piece. Use some 220 grit and maybe 400 or so to get a nice smooth surface then repaint with some acrylics and seal. Remove the tape and you’re good. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Ok will do, ive gotta wait a week for the green stuff to arrive so just working on the belt at the momentSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 I'm going to my local hobbycraft store on Saturday to pick up little tins of humbrol paints I need red for tank topper, grey for snout greeblie and chest armour indent and black for behind snout greeblie are there any particular ones I should be looking for?? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Medium gray for the snout and the chest armor indent. I used the Humbrol #5 Admiral Dark Grey for the snout and chest armor indent. You can also use Acrylics too and they are much easier to work with. Use can use Ammo by MiG or Vallejo Model Color or even Tamiya. If you go with Humbrol keep in mind that is an enamel paint so make sure you give it plenty of time to cure before working with the parts after you paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Medium gray for the snout and the chest armor indent. I used the Humbrol #5 Admiral Dark Grey for the snout and chest armor indent. You can also use Acrylics too and they are much easier to work with. Use can use Ammo by MiG or Vallejo Model Color or even Tamiya. If you go with Humbrol keep in mind that is an enamel paint so make sure you give it plenty of time to cure before working with the parts after you paint.I'll do my best to get the admiral dark grey, do you know what the red and white types are for the tank topper?Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 You're just looking for your basic white and red colors. Insignia red and insignia white will likely work fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Great stuff thanks chopper!!Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 25, 2020 Author Share Posted July 25, 2020 Snout greeblie painted and curing, may do a second sweep once its driedSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Filled the ridges on the bicep greeblie, sanded as close to main greeblie as possible and a coating of black matt humbrol paint, is this adequate to pass lancer? Please adviseSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Might weather the rough edges with a bit of silver to simulate damage would this be acceptable?Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 If you want screen accuracy , weather them with tiny white scratches, as the originals were white resin painted black . There is no silver weathering on a scout . Although they are best left just black . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Back armour trimmed and sanded, will leave underside for when softs arrive as dont wish to take too much off before attaching tankSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Be sure to sand those edges nice and smooth or you’ll tear up your vest and it’ll hang up on you when your donning or doffing your chest armour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Be sure to sand those edges nice and smooth or you’ll tear up your vest and it’ll hang up on you when your donning or doffing your chest armour.They're smooth as silk buddy, i know they look jagged on the pics but that's due to the resolution Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Ok so I have been informed that I have yo pass basic clearance with UKG before I can apply for Lancer, I will hold off from posting further pictures as I dont want to confuse myself and armourers, to be honest I am struggling with the build at present as it is difficult to get up to date guides especially where the lid is concerned as a lot of wips are either SC, WTF or RS lids and I am building an RWA Lid, which is in 4 parts, Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Hey Phil. You don’t need to stop posting just because you have to get basic approval first before you can apply for Lancer. If you build your kit to Lancer specs now it will automatically meet basic approval and then you can use the same submission photos for your Lancer app once approved. That’s how I built my kit and many others who want to shoot for Lancer do the same. It’s easier to go for Lancer out of the box than to have to go back and change/update your build after the fact. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Phil reach out to [mention]tythetrooper [/mention] as he is has the complete TB kit from RWA and might be able to provide you with some insight on the issues your experiencing with your bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 Phil reach out to [mention]tythetrooper [/mention] as he is has the complete TB kit from RWA and might be able to provide you with some insight on the issues your experiencing with your bucket. Thanks I will do, at present I am ever so slightly sanding down to fit the visor to the main lid the problen lies with the faceplate attaching to visor as i dont know how for forward it goes but will definitely ask him for help!!Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Don’t stress yourself too much sir. You most certainly can build to the Lancer spec but we can address those particular pics when you’re ready to submit and post them up in the Lancer submission forum. Best thing now is to focus on your basic submission. The GMLs are only going to focus on that. I was a GML for about 2.5 years so I can help you with what they’re going to focus on. Can you post up a pic of your helmet showing the areas that are causing you some issues? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 Don’t stress yourself too much sir. You most certainly can build to the Lancer spec but we can address those particular pics when you’re ready to submit and post them up in the Lancer submission forum. Best thing now is to focus on your basic submission. The GMLs are only going to focus on that. I was a GML for about 2.5 years so I can help you with what they’re going to focus on. Can you post up a pic of your helmet showing the areas that are causing you some issues?I will do i am gonna start back on it tomorrow so will send some picsSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philscratch Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share Posted August 2, 2020 @Retrofire here are some shots of my bucket masked up, the main buck still isn't glued yet but I have placed support strips on the inside as you can see, I feel like the faceplate is pushing the visor up and away from main lid, advice on further trimming or areas needing attention would be greatly appreciatedSent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 Hey bud, to start you're going to need to start carefully trimming back the U-shaped cut on the top of the visor. I've made some rough marks on your images, but this part of the build calls for small steps and micro-surgery, so go slow! I think you can also take down the return edge on the top of the faceplate a bit as well. You'll need to leave enough so that you'll have some decent surface area to attach it to the top of the visor. Again, slow and steady on this one. Also, here's some overall shots of one of the original buckets (compiled photo from Mon Cal), so you can get a sense of spacing and clearance for the faceplate vs the dome portion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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