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Helmet paint


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Ok guys I need HELP with the helmet, is fiber glass and I try to paint but first the primer so I use the primer but to be honest I never paint before so I gonna need a little tutorial if some of you have it, I already use primer but I don’t like the way it looks (picture 1) after that I sand it on wet with 400 sandpaper and I think looks really bad 😞 !!! HEEEELLPPP 

E02EF3D2-AE66-4ED0-9C23-72D200BBE861.jpeg

CF0526F5-934F-4C1E-AA66-6B16634A863A.jpeg

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Hi Diego, what brand of paint and primer were you using? How much time did you give between the layers curing?

Were these older cans of paint? Were they thoroughly mixed prior to painting?

Spray paint can be REALLY finicky. Different paints use different types of solvent to bind the paint to the underlying material. If the paint types aren't compatible, then you can end up with reactions similar to what you encountered. You can also have reactions between the paint layers if the underlying layer is not fully cured. Generally I try to wait 48 hours between layers.

You can also have issues with "pebbling" and uneven spray if the paint and solvent isn't fully mixed in the can. I try to shake my cans for a good few minutes prior to spraying, then I test the finish on some scrap fabric first, to make sure everything is coming out evenly.

I think you may need to hit the 220 grit sandpaper to get some of the cracking out of the finish. Once you get the crackled paint sanded down with 220, you can re-sand it with 400 and then 600 to smooth out the finish for re-painting.

Aside what I've already mentioned, you can also look at this guide for some basic spray painting tips: https://www.wikihow.com/Spray-Paint

 

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12 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Hi Diego, what brand of paint and primer were you using? How much time did you give between the layers curing?

Were these older cans of paint? Were they thoroughly mixed prior to painting?

Spray paint can be REALLY finicky. Different paints use different types of solvent to bind the paint to the underlying material. If the paint types aren't compatible, then you can end up with reactions similar to what you encountered. You can also have reactions between the paint layers if the underlying layer is not fully cured. Generally I try to wait 48 hours between layers.

You can also have issues with "pebbling" and uneven spray if the paint and solvent isn't fully mixed in the can. I try to shake my cans for a good few minutes prior to spraying, then I test the finish on some scrap fabric first, to make sure everything is coming out evenly.

I think you may need to hit the 220 grit sandpaper to get some of the cracking out of the finish. Once you get the crackled paint sanded down with 220, you can re-sand it with 400 and then 600 to smooth out the finish for re-painting.

Aside what I've already mentioned, you can also look at this guide for some basic spray painting tips: https://www.wikihow.com/Spray-Paint

 

I use this one 63BA8BEC-FEF8-4734-AD33-7909689756BA.jpeg.2f70de445595de453093ef410cb82bdd.jpeg

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Hi Diego. Another important thing is what brand of paint did you use as well? Chopper is right on the money with curing times and prep. He and I have talked quite a bit about the need to use compatible primers and paints. So it would be helpful to have an idea of your paint as well. Fear not we’ll help you as best we can get this worked out.

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Ah ok, you used rusto filler primer? I have had some reactions with the filler primer, even with rustoleum paint as the next layer.

The idea of filler primer is that it's mixed with bondo to help even out any surface imperfections. If you want to use filler primer, you spray it, then, after it dries, you sand it smooth. After that, I'd recommend you do a coat of regular primer. If you're using rustoleum, you can use rusto painters touch grey primer, or white primer. Once the coat is dry, and any other sanding complete, then you can do additional layers in gloss or semi-gloss.

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