Vraeden Posted June 30, 2020 Posted June 30, 2020 Good morning, all! I just bought an armor and helmet kit from Studio Creations, and I was wondering if anyone could post some assembly pictures and/or a WIP thread showing how they put the helmet together. They sent a bag of tabs, elastic and a single screw and I was wondering how everything went together. I've got a long weekend coming up, so I'm hoping to make some headway on this costume. Thanks in advance.
mickeymark34 Posted June 30, 2020 Posted June 30, 2020 Email Jeff and ask him if he can email you a set of instructions for helmet construction.
Hoda Posted July 1, 2020 Posted July 1, 2020 I didn't get an instruction either but it turned out pretty simple ... I checked out other people's build threads and that put me a bit more at ease. Maybe take a look at a few threads and see if you can follow along?This is mine, for example http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21455-Hoda's-Biker-Scout-Build-WIP-(SC)#entry196754I think it essentially boils down to gluing the top together with the back, gluing the face with the visor, and then just bolting them together. It really wasn't bad at all!
MAD1_TK45001 Posted July 23, 2020 Posted July 23, 2020 On 6/30/2020 at 8:12 AM, mickeymark34 said: Email Jeff and ask him if he can email you a set of instructions for helmet construction. @ Honda I also have a SC kit and I emailed Jeff as stated by MikeyMark34. He sent the instructions that evening... 1
Vraeden Posted July 26, 2020 Author Posted July 26, 2020 What should the length be on the straps holding the thigh boxes? The CRL says the boxes should hang down about an inch, but that seems really short. So what length should I set them from the bottom of the belt to the parachute clip and from the parachute clip to the opening of the box?
Retrofire Posted July 26, 2020 Posted July 26, 2020 We typically recommend that the boxes sit anywhere from 1”-1.5” from the bottom of your belt. You’ll want to measure from the inside of your belt front to inside the boxes and leave a little extra to adjust if you need. Since the buckle is there only for show and is just threaded through the strap you can slide it up or down to get it in the middle. You can use tape to attach the straps to the belt and boxes temporarily so you can put the belt on and adjust from there.
Vraeden Posted August 7, 2020 Author Posted August 7, 2020 I found a pattern for the dogbones and cut them for my boots. Should they extend down to the sole, or are they okay there?
Vraeden Posted August 7, 2020 Author Posted August 7, 2020 If I've learned anything from making the boots it's that I have small feet but big, chunky calves.
Chopper Posted August 8, 2020 Posted August 8, 2020 The positioning of your dogbone looks ok in the first photo, but it looks short in the second photo. You may need to cut a slightly longer dog bone.
Vraeden Posted August 8, 2020 Author Posted August 8, 2020 I think you're right. I cut a larger template. This is the mock up before I cut it out of the vinyl.
Retrofire Posted August 8, 2020 Posted August 8, 2020 That’s looking much better. It’s a good size compared to the CRL pic below. Keep up the good work and keep those questions coming!
Vraeden Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 I got the holster put together and am getting ready to mount it to the tube. Do you all use more attachments than just the 4 rivets? I know a couple of my TB friends who have some cracking on the holster assembly around the rivets over time. I was thinking of adding some stick-on velcro to the back of the holster and the tube to distribute some of the weight of the holster away from the rivets.
Chopper Posted August 9, 2020 Posted August 9, 2020 12 hours ago, Vraeden said: I got the holster put together and am getting ready to mount it to the tube. Do you all use more attachments than just the 4 rivets? I know a couple of my TB friends who have some cracking on the holster assembly around the rivets over time. I was thinking of adding some stick-on velcro to the back of the holster and the tube to distribute some of the weight of the holster away from the rivets. I haven't seen anyone use anything more than the 4 pop rivets to attach the holster. Usually the cracking tends to happen because aluminum back up plates aren't used on the inside part of the boot and the plastic gets stressed and eventually cracks.
Vraeden Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Studio Creations sent a strip of ABS to go on the inside of the tube to add reinforcement. I was going to add a washer and use a 1/2” rivet to give it some extra strength on the back side.
Vraeden Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Some pix of the chest/back armor and my belt. 2
Vraeden Posted August 9, 2020 Author Posted August 9, 2020 Rough test fit. I need to add velcro to the knees and bicep armor to keep them from sliding. Add chest pouches Add dogbones to boots. Add decals and paint details. Finish helmet
DukeMedic Posted August 19, 2020 Posted August 19, 2020 following, just bought a SC kit. looking forward to the build
Vraeden Posted October 30, 2020 Author Posted October 30, 2020 How far down from the top of the tank does the horizontal decal go?
Retrofire Posted October 31, 2020 Posted October 31, 2020 The horizontal strip goes about halfway down the tank body. Here’s the CRL pic.
Vraeden Posted October 31, 2020 Author Posted October 31, 2020 A guy in my garrison also has a Studio Creations kit, and measured his at 3.5" from the top, which looks to be about halfway, like the CRL picture, so I'm going with that.
Toothdoc Posted December 3, 2020 Posted December 3, 2020 I just did this last night and "eyeballed it" from that same photo. I think I got it a bit too high at first, but adjusted it down a bit and it looks better. My black strips are 1/8" wide and the four "rank bars" are 1/4" wide. The photo on the CRL appears as though that trooper chose to use 1/8" strips and doubled them up for the rank bars, so that's what led me to use the 1/4" width. Sound about right? ON the tank top detail piece, does the red stripe need to be on the top AND down the sides of the switch handle? I cut my piece short and just went with the top. Also, can that stripe be painted on??
Chopper Posted December 3, 2020 Posted December 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Toothdoc said: I just did this last night and "eyeballed it" from that same photo. I think I got it a bit too high at first, but adjusted it down a bit and it looks better. My black strips are 1/8" wide and the four "rank bars" are 1/4" wide. The photo on the CRL appears as though that trooper chose to use 1/8" strips and doubled them up for the rank bars, so that's what led me to use the 1/4" width. Sound about right? ON the tank top detail piece, does the red stripe need to be on the top AND down the sides of the switch handle? I cut my piece short and just went with the top. Also, can that stripe be painted on?? If you're doing the 4x rank, then yes, 1/4" is about right. Yes you can paint the red stripe on, the CRL only says "red line detail", so either would be fine. The CRL does not call specifically for the red stripes to be on all sides, but the screen costumes did it that way.
Toothdoc Posted December 4, 2020 Posted December 4, 2020 Well, then...Can’t argue with the screen version! Thanks, Chopper!
BikerScout007 Posted December 4, 2020 Posted December 4, 2020 Looks like it's at least coming down the front side here: Gino told us a lot of these tank tops were done differently --- maybe so they knew which tank belonged to which costume? This one has a red square (looks like tape to me!) that others don't have.
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