Omaha Joe Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 10 hours ago, AradunFF said: Looks great Joe. I’m interested in seeing your install process, as this audio system is on my list of add-ons down the pike. It looks from the side by side you provided that you need to trim your original snout piece to attach the new mic equipped snout. BTW...nice weathering on your bucket. You’re right Dennis, I’m gonna have to detach the engine/mic portion of my existing snout to affix the wired version, a process not without several degrees of anxiety..! (“I just got this bucket back together, I’m not gonna let somethin’ tear it apart!!”) From what I understand, the audio systems are sold as the engine/mic piece alone to account for the differences in parts sizes (length of the greeblie’s backplate and snout recess areas) from the different helmet manufacturers, but I was aware of that when I ordered it. Two schools of thought though: 1) I could try and slice off my existing engine/mic piece, sand the backplate down, drill out a hole for the wiring, carefully E6000 the new piece on, and voila..! but I think that’ll be easier said than done, especially trying to get a straight cut from the right, left, and top edge as it’s already set in the recess... or 2) I might just try my hand at resin-casting my own greeblie backplate using the existing one as a template and strip the old one off completely, minimizing the trauma of a complete F up should the original backplate snap in the process. The thing looks like a simple oversized tongue depressor anyway, how hard can it be, right..?! Either way I’m going to have to swap out the two and believe me, I already have a replacement snout greeblie on order in case my first attempt goes dreadfully amok... I will definitely update with whichever procedure gets the job done as accurately and effectively as possible 👍🏼 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Sounds like you have a solid well thought plan. When I first saw this kit on his Etsy site, my initial thought was to drill out the mesh and hollow out the aerator from my greeblie and insert the mesh and guts from uk’s system. Then I thought maybe I could just cut and remove both aerators and swap them out rather than replace the entire greeblie and backing plate. But of course those musings were without actually having the product in hand to see if either was a viable option. My RS greeblie is merely screwed to the faceplate with a single Phillips screw so it should be an easy removal once the time comes. Your install will make a great tutorial once finished and I for one am looking forward to it! Keep them pics and posts coming. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 If you go with #1 I would get an X-Acto razor saw from your local hobby store. They have very thin blades and can make short work of removing the snout greeblie. Once you get it removed then you can use some 220 grit sandpaper taped to a flat surface to smooth the backplate. It could be glass or stone. I use a sample of our quartz countertop we got from the installer. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 On 7/18/2020 at 7:30 AM, Omaha Joe said: I might just try my hand at resin-casting my own greeblie backplate using the existing one as a template and strip the old one off completely, minimizing the trauma of a complete F up should the original backplate snap in the process. The thing looks like a simple oversized tongue depressor anyway, how hard can it be, right..? You can actually make a new backing plate out of 2mm ABS. Trace the shape of the old one, use a ruler to score and snap the left, right, and bottom edges, then use lexan scissors to cut the top curve. Use an emory board to file the edges smooth. The indent can be created using the corner edge of a metal file. Mark the line in pencil, and then pass the file over the line repeatedly until the indent matches. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 Excellent advice, Gentlemen, thank you to both of you..! Agreed that acquiring the proper tools and materials would be well worth the effort for the cleanest possible finished product 👍🏼 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 So I’m not sure to what degree this falls into the category of “tutorial”, as I’ve learned with other parts of my build there far more than one way to skin a cat (or Scout bucket in this case), but here are the steps I took to swap out my Studio Creations snout greeblie with Ukswrath’s Biker Scout Helmet Audio System: *note I have heard that different helmet manufacturers have different ways of attaching their engine/mic portion of the greeblie to the backplate; one in particular with a screw to make this far easier than with chipping away with power tools. *also note I have not yet installed/configured the battery pack/wiring inside the helmet, this is simply the swapping of the engine/mic portion of the greeblie. I started by trimming off what I could of the existing engine/mic portion with a dremel cutting attachment, leaving the original backplate fastened to the recessed area. I then switched to a dremel sanding drum to take the remaining raised areas down before finishing with sandpaper. yes this was nerve-racking and not without a handful of adult words in the process. I then positioned the new audio engine/mic portion, marked and drilled a hole through the backplate and the recessed snout area of the faceplate, allowing the necessary wiring coming from the back of the new mic to go through to the inside of the helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 At this point I decided while I was at it to repaint the recessed area black before sanding the entire backplate down, preparing it for a fresh coat of grey. The new engine portion (just the engine, NOT the black on the mic) was also painted to match. *note Ukswrath does not endorse this, and the way I understand it, actually advises against any painting of the audio equipment portion of the greeblie as it’s done at your own risk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 after allowing everything to dry, it was simply a matter of gluing (E6000) the new engine/mic to the backplate. As of now, I have the wiring inside the helmet taped to the inside of the snout (just so it’s out of the way and won’t snag). I will update when I get the battery pack installed and the wiring configured inside; the outside is completed. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Awesome Joe. Thanks for doing this. I actually took a good look at my snout piece today and it is secured to the RS bucket with nothing more than a Phillips screw. Took it off hoping that it might be hollow behind the aerator, but it appears that it is a solid resin cast piece so your tutorial will be helpful when I’m ready to tackle installation of my mic set. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That One Scout Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 10 hours ago, Omaha Joe said: after allowing everything to dry, it was simply a matter of gluing (E6000) the new engine/mic to the backplate. As of now, I have the wiring inside the helmet taped to the inside of the snout (just so it’s out of the way and won’t snag). I will update when I get the battery pack installed and the wiring configured inside; the outside is completed. thanks for showing that in pictures @Omaha Joe ! was it the cutting wheel you used or the saw attachment to remove it? and can you share what "grey"/brand paint you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Very nice work Mike! Well done! Keep up the great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 6 hours ago, That_One_Scout_Trooper said: thanks for showing that in pictures @Omaha Joe ! was it the cutting wheel you used or the saw attachment to remove it? and can you share what "grey"/brand paint you used? I used a 1” dremel cutting disk first to take off the majority of the engine/mic tip, then continued with the dremel sanding drum, the key being ‘slow n’ steady, little by little’... ...and the paint I used is Rust-Oleum Satin Protective Enamel in ‘Coastal Gray’ which I also used to color-match my helmet bolts 👍🏼 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 not much of an update, but an update nonetheless... chin cup installed, as well as a little velcro (ooops, I mean “hook n’ loop fastener“ 🤭 👀) to the inside edge where the visor/faceplate meets the bucket... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted July 30, 2020 Author Share Posted July 30, 2020 got my shoulder bells temporarily connected to the shoulder bridge; waiting on flight suit and vest for final placement but got a couple pics in the meantime 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 Looking good brother! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 not much of an update, but an update nonetheless... chin cup installed, as well as a little velcro (ooops, I mean “hook n’ loop fastener“ ) to the inside edge where the visor/faceplate meets the bucket... Joe, I’ve been tinkering with the idea of doing something similar to my bucket with the hook and loop since I got it. The face plate is just a tad loose with a little bit of movement. Looking at your photo it appears to me like you initially went with a smaller piece of hook towards the bottom and then added a second longer piece above it? Is that correct or are my aging eyes deceiving me? And if so did the initial smaller piece not work as intended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 The bottom black portion you’re seeing is the hook velcro and the black strip above it is the elastic for the chin cup. The corresponding loop velcro is on the inside of the faceplate. I initially had a full strip of hook and loop (the same length as the hook and elastic combined is now) but I realized I didn’t need that much velcro to keep my visor closed tightly, and trimming it down made it easier to lift the visor when I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 That makes perfect sense and is in line with what I was planning to do. Thanks for clarifying Joe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 No, I haven’t turned to the Dark Side, and no I’m not cheating (ok maybe a little cheating to some) on my first love of becoming a TB RotJ Scout Trooper, but having caught the bug to build Imperial armor kits while still in a holding pattern awaiting necessary components to finish my Scout, I felt the need to satisfy the creative appetite... I realize this is not the place to post such blasphemous builds and forgive me for doing so, but I needed an update fix..! ...so here’s how I’ve filled my “Scout build” downtime #TBinTDclothing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Whaaat? You’ve gone shiny white? Noooo! Just kidding brother. Gotta love those shiny whites, that’s iconic Star Wars right there in your photos. Great work as usual Joe. Looks incredible and what a productive time filler too. Nice job. PS. Glad to see that scout bucket sitting on your sinister side LOL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 it won’t be shiny and white for long..! In fact it’ll be dirtier than my Scout as soon as I get it finished and painted and weathered... I’m goin’ full TD Sandtrooper 👍🏼 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 That’s the spirit. And good choice. Sandtroopers were notoriously better shots (at least with Jawas). 🤣🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmic Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 The best time filler you can have actually😊but....it makes me a little nervous reading about all the weatherd and dirty scouts here to tell you guys when my armor finally arrives that it will be shiny as hell😬 Maybe some day, when it becomes too annoying for me to clean it after every troop, it will be dirty, maybe😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omaha Joe Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 nothing at all wrong with a shiny Scout!! On the Death Star they had to be pristine for Palpatine’s arrival..! Apparently Palpatine didn’t worry all that much about the on-duty Troopers on Tatooine... or at least he didn’t bother with their unkempt armor 🤷♂️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Hey Joe! Any word on when your Scout stuff is coming in? I miss seeing your WIP in my notifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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