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Cheryl's Short Shoretrooper Captain WIP


LorahJanin

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Hey guys!

Finally got my armour! 
I've decided to post a WIP because I know I'll need help. 5'4" curvy female who wants to possibly get vanguard. Let's see if that is possible? 😛

Shore Trooper Captain

  • Bucket – Imperial Surplus
  • Armour – Imperial Surplus
  • Neck Seal – (making myself)
  • Shirt – (Making myself)
  • Pants – (Making myself)
  • Bootsneed to order
  • Beltneed to order
  • Gloves – Endor Finders 
  • Pouch – Original M65 SMG Ammo Pouch
  • Balaclava – Amazon
  • Blaster – E22 or E11?
  • Buckles and straps Mr. Paul's 

Paint

  • Yellow – Shock Yellow Montana Gold
  • Blue –   Express Paint – Ford TO/XSC Light Blue 
  • Aging Spray –  (Need) Movie Paint Removable Aging Spray 11 Oz
  • Red – Toyota Super Red 3E5 
  • Helmet Circle –  Montana Gold - Red Orange 
  • Primer – Dark Walnut Rust-Oleum Spray Paint - Home Depot? 
  • Tan – Montana Gold - Sahara Beige 
  • Black – Montana Gold -Shock Black 
  • White –Montana Gold - Flat Matte White of some sort... 
  • Top Coat?
  • Weathering paint 

Just going to drop a little to do list for myself here...

  • find out where I can buy more abs plastic and plastezote foam


(not all pieces are in the picture)

104945901_320977788912496_7350488719369551636_n.jpg

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Hi

Good luck with the build, the first to get vanguard is another woman. You might want to join the shoretrooper fam on Facebook. There is alot of helpfull stuff there

What type are you going for?

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1 minute ago, ST79211 said:

Hi

Good luck with the build, the first to get vanguard is another woman. You might want to join the shoretrooper fam on Facebook. There is alot of helpfull stuff there emoji846.png

What type are you going for? emoji846.png

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Thanks!

I'm part of shoretrooper fam! I found out about it a little while ago, lots of information and things there! 

and Captain. :)

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Thanks!

I'm part of shoretrooper fam! I found out about it a little while ago, lots of information and things there! 

and Captain.
Kool! Well happy building then

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Hi Cheryl. I think it’s great that you got your armor in that’s so exciting. You got some expert Shoretrooper builders (and painters) here in the detachment so keep posting up those pictures and questions. @KOtrooper Is a Vanguard a talented member of the Armory team and I’m she she’ll be dropping by too. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything we’re here to help you be successful. Best of luck with your build! 

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Welcome @LorahJanin

We've got quite a few Captain builds (including my own!) in our Shoretrooper WIP forum.  Check them out!

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/129-shoretrooper-wip/

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You can totally do this! I had to expand my torso armor to fit my lady hips. I bought a plastic handicap sign at the hardware store to shim it out. Have you made ABS slurry/sludge with your scraps yet?

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On 6/20/2020 at 6:05 PM, KOtrooper said:

You can totally do this! I had to expand my torso armor to fit my lady hips. I bought a plastic handicap sign at the hardware store to shim it out. Have you made ABS slurry/sludge with your scraps yet?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

Oh perfect! I will have to get something like that. Thanks!

And I've heard of the sludge from my friend making a Clonetrooper, but I don't remember what it was for or how to do it. Is there information on here about that?
 

Thanks!

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Oh perfect! I will have to get something like that. Thanks!

And I've heard of the sludge from my friend making a Clonetrooper, but I don't remember what it was for or how to do it. Is there information on here about that?
 
Thanks!
I can't remember where I read about it. I put ABS scraps in a glass Mason jar and poured in acetone. It melts the plastic into a paste. I had some thin spots on my armor so I make a very thick paste and spread it on the inside. Worked great.

Use it for cracks or filling in seams. It's basically your ABS in liquid form. Smear it on and sand it smooth.

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2 minutes ago, KOtrooper said:

I can't remember where I read about it. I put ABS scraps in a glass Mason jar and poured in acetone. It melts the plastic into a paste. I had some thin spots on my armor so I make a very thick paste and spread it on the inside. Worked great.

Use it for cracks or filling in seams. It's basically your ABS in liquid form. Smear it on and sand it smooth.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

Perfect! I was actually wondering how to fix those thin spots, wasn't sure if it was just mine or not. Most of them are on the detail parts of my arm pieces, do you think it would also work to fix sections that weren't molded properly? There are a a couple spots on my lower arm casings and the belt piece for the detonator that what it looks like were pinched and stick out where as they should be smooth ( I could take a picture if needed) 


Also thank you so much! 

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Hi Cheryl. Pictures are always worth a thousand words to the Armoury team. Always recommend posting a pic of the part in question along with the question when applicable. Keep up the great work and keep those questions (and pics) coming!

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As I am still waiting for my helmet due to slow covid transit and wanting to order Mr Paul's buckles (Canada is not accepting Air mail though from the UK at the moment is seems... so who knows when I will get those..and the boots.) Figured I would try and sort out some sizing logistics. While looking at the reference picture has helped slightly I still need some help!

So was fiddling with the shin pieces. I was trying to find out where exactly the knees are supposed to be in relation to the top part. The top part hits around mid knee for me, I still have all movement and motion and can sit down and climb stairs (with slight difficulty but I think that was more due to balancing so they wouldn't pop off) Does this look okay or should I shorten them slightly?  I would rather not have to adjust anything on them as that means having to adjust and then support where it was cut and then put back together. Thoughts?

Next are two that I know will need to be trimmed...

As of right now, with difficulty of figuring out exactly where the front torso piece should be, in the picture below I have it at my hips, which then causes the top part to stick out alot ...causing the chest plate to not then be able to sit properly. 1) do I have it to high? 2) would trimming an inch off the top help to fit betting with curves and underarms and such? 

 

and then lastly (sorry for all these questions...) Arm pieces. (Sort of hilarious trying to get them to all stay to take a picture with out them falling all by myself)

- The upper arm piece (when in place properly) seems to fit well (in the picture it is sitting a bit low because it was slipping)

so my 2 questions here are:

1)the shoulder piece, does it look like an appropriate size? I know it will sit slightly higher when I have the full armor on.

2)  the forearm most definitely needs to be a bit shorter. I'm thinking by about an inch and then I'll have to take it in too because I don't have like any muscle there at all (I have a plan for doing that) I'll definitely will have to reinforce the forearm parts a lot... but I don't see any other way to keep it on even once I have the shirt the size that it is it would always be sliding off. ( definitely would look like one klutzy shore trooper having to pick up their arm pieces all the time)

Thoughts?  (Also thanks you guys are amazing)

Legs.jpg

torso.jpg

arms.jpg

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For the shins I would say the top op the front plates (these are a bit taller then the shins themselves) are around mid knee or max top of the knee. If you need to shorten your shins you can make a cut where the upper straps will be. This will hide any seam that would still be slightly visible. I had to shorten mine too, check my build thread.

 

The belt is worn around the natural waist, so check if you can lower the ab to that height. Most of the ab is hidden behind the chest and back so it’s ok to shorten it. Just remember it can be visible from the sides above the side bridges so it has to look good there. Ideally the chest should still be above the greeblie box on the ab. 

Shoulder bell size looks good to me.

The forearms look too big, both in length and width. Now the CRL says the forearms needs to have 12 recessed areas, so I you cut them down this is no longer the case. Check with your local GML if that would be ok. Otherwise you will need to remove it entirely and replace it with a custom made or 3D printed piece. If the width matches your arms they will stay in place. The shirt and gloves will add some volume at your wrists and you could add some padding but they look really wide now.

 

 

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1 hour ago, ScaryGuy said:

The forearms look too big, both in length and width. Now the CRL says the forearms needs to have 12 recessed areas, so I you cut them down this is no longer the case. Check with your local GML if that would be ok. Otherwise you will need to remove it entirely and replace it with a custom made or 3D printed piece. If the width matches your arms they will stay in place. The shirt and gloves will add some volume at your wrists and you could add some padding but they look really wide now.

Yeah even with the sleeves they would be too large, also dang I totally forgot about the recessed areas. I could probably figure something out with the ones I have with a lot of tampering and then casting for a mold of some sort once I know exact dimensions I'd need.. Thank you so much!!

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I widened my torso armor via corset in the back (hidden by the backplate) so it flares out at the hips. I have that resting on my hips and the belt starts there. I'm giving the illusion that I have a longer torso.

My forearm armor was HUGE (from BSP). I cut both sides of the recessed strip, curved them in, and glued in place. Nerve wracking for sure but it helped tons. If it's just too long though - go with the 3d printed route for the recesses.

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On 6/29/2020 at 11:39 AM, ScaryGuy said:

The forearms look too big, both in length and width. Now the CRL says the forearms needs to have 12 recessed areas, so I you cut them down this is no longer the case. Check with your local GML if that would be ok. Otherwise you will need to remove it entirely and replace it with a custom made or 3D printed piece. If the width matches your arms they will stay in place. The shirt and gloves will add some volume at your wrists and you could add some padding but they look really wide now.

I was looking over the CRL and the Vanguard Standards and it doesn't specify 12 recessed areas, maybe I over looked a section? Below is a copy and past of the CRL (the VS only specifies colour)

Thoughts? Thanks!

Forearms
  • Forearm cover strips are raised and bevelled with a added strip layer on top.
  • Raised section with a hard corner. Contains twelve recessed areas.
  • Right forearm is tan with moderate weathering.
  • Left forearm is tan with moderate weathering. There is horizontal grey-blue stripe on the elbow side and a yellow horizontal stripe directly below it.
  • The yellow stripe begins approximately above the fifth recessed section from the wrist end of the forearm, and ends approximately just below the eighth recessed section from the wrist end of the forearm.
  • The grey-blue stripe begins at the bottom of the eighth recessed section from the wrist end of the forearm, and covers the remainder of the elbow end of the forearm.
  • The forearm maybe be shortened to fit the wearer but the yellow and grey-blue stripes must be made proportionately smaller. 

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armour base color is Sahara Beige.
  • Blue color is layered Ford Nordic Blue,light spray of Matt black and grey aging spray.
  • Yellow color is Flat yellow.
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1 minute ago, LorahJanin said:

I was looking over the CRL and the Vanguard Standards and it doesn't specify 12 recessed areas, maybe I over looked a section? Below is a copy and past of the CRL (the VS only specifies colour)

Thoughts? Thanks!


It’s in the second line:

  • Raised section with a hard corner. Contains twelve recessed areas.

 

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Its allowed to cut the forearm down so it fits you. If its too long. In doubt, run it by your local GML.

This should not be a problem

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Worked on the bucket this past weekend

Need to fix up the air bubble chips on the bottom of the snout.

I've also been wondering about the black eye bags, I've seen various different shapes, is there a certain shape/ length they should be? and should I sand these down and replace them when I put the visor in if they are wrong? The second image in the link below show what they look like on my bucket.

https://imgur.com/a/C7Y2CIr

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8 minutes ago, LorahJanin said:

Worked on the bucket this past weekend

Need to fix up the air bubble chips on the bottom of the snout.

I've also been wondering about the black eye bags, I've seen various different shapes, is there a certain shape/ length they should be? and should I sand these down and replace them when I put the visor in if they are wrong? The second image in the link below show what they look like on my bucket.

https://imgur.com/a/C7Y2CIr

 

For basic approval that shape is fine. If you’re looking into level 2 they would need to extend further. They end near the round nose bridge.


kXc9MiU.jpg

 

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34 minutes ago, ScaryGuy said:

 

For basic approval that shape is fine. If you’re looking into level 2 they would need to extend further. They end near the round nose bridge.

Thanks! I will try and figure out how to that! 

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