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Harbinger’s TB WIP (501st/Lancer Approved - but never done!)


Harbinger

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4-bar tank decal reference

TD measurement diagram

My shoulder bell strapping method

Sierra Sneaker IV > III conversion (and accurate sole paint color)

DVH Blaster upgrades part 1 - scope mount / screws

DVH Blaster upgrades part 2 - holster magnet (+ .stl magnet cover)

DVH Blaster upgrades part 3 - trigger guard screws

 

TK-92802 here and ready to join the biker gang... putting all the parts together and finally have enough to start a thread.

Ordered a full RS helmet + armor set in December which arrived today. I asked for the armor unassembled per many members suggestion, and they thankfully obliged:

YSAzIzf.jpg

Now to put a list together for all the screen-accurate webbing, if someone knows of a post here that saves me the trouble LMK!

Helmet was prebuilt, not a kit as I didn’t want to wait, but seems well put together:

DithvH9.jpg

I will need to throw a coat of satin or semi-gloss on it, replace the bolts with the accurate 3M ones and then weather the armor and helmet.

 

Also snagged a pair of woodland camo Sierras on eBay for $100:

qZRg3NR.jpg

These are currently soaking in Vinylex to hopefully extend the life of the 40-year old rubber, after which I will do the rubber band and paint method @Whiskey used for his pair.

 

Large gloves on order from WW, which should be here this week. Also on order are a suit and flak vest from Cucblack (don’t worry , I used Fedex!) as my friend has one of his vests and I like how substantial they are vs. the modified t-shirt stule that seems so prevalent. Lastly, I ordered on a cod+bund from @cheesewhoopy, who has also graciously offered to help me with the boot conversion as well (sewing is not my strong suit).

 

Very excited for this build!

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Off to a great start. Excellent choice in armor. I hope to receive my RS bucket and armor sometime in April so I can complete my build. I’ll be following your build to help me prep! Keep those posts coming!


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Boot rehab continues!

 

Removed the Hi-tec’s from the bag of Vinylex I left them to soak in the last couple days, in the aim of eking out a bit more life from these forty-something year old boots.

 

Sadly, the upper rubber portion was too far gone on both boots... but, considering the lower portion of the sole is still holding up well in terms of flexibility despite its age, I think whatever glue they used has degraded the rubber, vs. age/UV/oxidation.

After that, I used some magnets and plenty of E-6000 to re-glue the canvas to the remaining rubber:

hsJyOJC.jpg

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Got a lot done today... took all the pre-trimmed parts and fixed a few parts I thought could look better, then sanded and polished all the edges and grooves (don’t want any armor bites or snags).

Filled some holes, sanded down flashing and repainted the bicep greeblies, then glued to the bicep armor:

ZhzTsgn.jpg

 

Took some scrap ABS from my Anovos kit scraps to reinforce the chest armor at the ‘v’ notch as it seems like a potential failure point in the future:

SFc1LZC.jpg

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Another day of work. Starting adding the horizontal stripe to my sierras:

CN5IDr3.jpg

I am using E6000 to glue the rubber bands to the sole, and a “extra flexible” latex caulk to fill the gaps so it looks smooth.

I also wrapped my detonator tube:

vLZyJgg.jpg

(Mine is closer to 11.5” as a 12” long tube felt too long on my waist.)

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My gloves (Wampa Wear) arrived, as did the cotton webbing and 1/2” clip to make my tank detachable (Mickey did this and I think it’s genius!).

I also finished rubber-banding the soles (still need to fill some seams):

0xVC57F.jpg

 

Started on my TD. Needed to drill holes for the zip-tie and add a slight curve to the bottom:

bWKwNut.jpg?1

zc0QPoK.jpg

 

Painted the tube as well. This primer seemed to be the best match I could find locally:

nVFKHDO.jpg

 

Removed the clips from my gloves, I found some pruning snips worked best to get as close to the seam as possible:

HsbIrS7.jpg

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A solid start! Looking forward to watching your build as I await delivery of my RS armor and bucket.


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Detonator finished:

3J62k6B.jpg

 

I hit the tube with another coat of primer and a coat of satin clear.

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Long story short, I spent about thrity bucks on some custom tan(ish) spray paint for the soles... total waste of money. Can was a sputtery mess, and it took me a good hour to clean (most) of the paint off the soles. Hopefully the few polka dots remaining can be covered up by the $6 can of Rustoleum that will be here Monday - they make a product for vinyl and plastic that allegedly will work decently on rubber. The color won't be as accurate, but, meh.

Probably for the best, I want something that I can easily buy to do field repair, I do not expect any paint to stick well to rubber and stay on there troop after troop after troop.

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Working on my back/tank whilst I wait for new paint (see my last update).

After much questioning and reference of screen used images I'm pretty sure they used 2mm and 6mm pinstriping for the "hero" aka 4-bar tank, not 1/8" & 1/4". Based on the image below, if you look the pinstripes look <50% the thickness of the bars:

tank7.jpg

 

Since I have a vinyl cutter, I will cut my own decals.

I pulled a bunch of images in Illustrator and roughed out sizes - looks to be about 8" wide for the pinstriping/box area, with 2mm thick pinstripes, and the bars are roughly 6mm X 38mm:

9MogGkk.jpg

I'm sure the costumers on set didn't get this exact, and the ones we see probably vary wildly but this is what I came up with so that's what I'll use.

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Thought I’d add my TD measurements since I didn’t see them elsewhere and it may help others... there is a range as depending on how tall/skinny/short/etc. you are, these could change to maintain the correct proportions:

QG4gB2Q.jpg

The clips appear to be about half-way between the caps and detonator, which is about two inches on an RS piece. YMMV.

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If you are going for the larger thickness four stripe backpack, they used back of helmet decals . The larger number if stripes with thinner tape, I can't remember the width. 

you need to trim back the stick out ends on the plastic centre of your TD , should be a bit shorter  in length . Also trim out the centre of the belt clips . 

Good idea about strengthening behind the ' v' cut , but to be honest it's not really necessary, the pinseal plastic is designed to crack less, that's what the pinseal back texture is there for .. but no harm in doing it . 

Great start , they don't like letting out kits , they must trust you to do them proud ! 

 

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The RS kit came with the 6-bar decal, but I am indeed going for the four bar version (anyone need a tank decal?). I used the strips on the helmet as reference, along with screen images, to come up with my measurements.

I may eventually replace the TD clips with more accurate ones, but for now decided I’d rather not modify the ones RS sent me.

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On 3/26/2020 at 2:58 PM, Harbinger said:

I pulled a bunch of images in Illustrator and roughed out sizes - looks to be about 8" wide for the pinstriping/box area, with 2mm thick pinstripes, and the bars are roughly 6mm X 38mm:

I went back and looked at when I did my pixel ratio calculations a while back -- since we know the side strap is 1.5", the thicker stripes were about 0.25" each. Since there's a bit of a margin for error on either end, it looks like you're in good shape.

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5 hours ago, CatfoodRob said:

Good idea about strengthening behind the ' v' cut , but to be honest it's not really necessary, the pinseal plastic is designed to crack less, that's what the pinseal back texture is there for .. but no harm in doing it . 

I am erring on the side of caution and reinforcing the weak points, which to me is:

- Chest “V” notch

- Knee upper elastic (rivet) attachment point

- Bicep/forearm/knee elastic passthrough “slots”

Even then I’m not as worried as I would be with say, an Anovos kit as the plastic RS uses is quite a bit thicker.

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Started working on the tank. The top has quite a bit of warp to it, so I gave it a bath in boiling water to try and flatten it as much as possible (before on the left):

jP0eO89.jpg

 

I then reinforced the top from the inside, it was quite thin up there and the majority of the stress will be on the river going through to top. I cut a piece of 1.5mm ABS to fit and glued it down with E6000:

UvY7T0F.jpg

 

Also did some sanding/filling on the tank topper. There was a lot of flashing, paint bubbles/runs and a couple scratches that I filled and sanded down.

Finally I cut out the tank decals from glossy permanent vinyl and applied them to the tank:

qOrVLi1.jpg

JiBkiWV.jpg

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