Dennis' Scout WIP (Lancer)

[Aradun]

Thanks Corey. I completely forgot that I subscribed to your CB and cod thread ages ago. I went back and gave it another look and will be adding some of those tips to my build.

I also plan to reduce the bunting in the CB.
The quilting of the sleeves and shoulders of the flak vest are 3/8” and I want to go just a tad thicker for the CB, but 3/4” was definitely too thick. My bunting is 3/16” thick so three layers will reduce the thickness to just under 5/8” which looks much better to my eyes.

Alas, while sowing my ribs this morning, my first line puckered the fabric because I wasn’t pulling tight enough when running the line. I can’t remove the stitch so I’m going to start over and use this one as a sample pattern to lay out my Velcro attachments, etc.


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[Aradun]

Cummerbund

Material:
36” x 44” 100% cotton sateen fabric
2” white Velcro

Sizing your CB Length:
Measure your chest just below your pecks while wearing your undersuit and flak vest.

Add 3” to this measurement (1” for bunting volume, 1” for Velcro closure, and 1” for seams)

Sizing your CB Width:
CBs are now standardized to be between 8” - 9” wide. So you’ll need double that and then add 1” for your seams. Use your pouches to determine the width. Pouches have a set height of 6”, but the tabs can vary between 2” - 3”.

My pouches had a 3” tab so I made my CB width 9” (doubled + 1” = 19”)

Overall fabric needed for this build was 44” x 19”.

Once you measure and cut your material I recommend ironing it with steam to remove any wrinkles and creases prior to stitching. It’ll be more difficult to press once the bunting has been added.

Seaming the Bund:

I added 1” to both the length and width of the CB so that I could create 1/4” seams. I measured 1/2” around the border of the material and drew a line along the 1/2” mark.

Fold the edge of the material to the 1/2” line. This creates a 1/4” fold. Then fold it again (another 1/4”) so the the cut edge is now tucked and locked in under the seam to prevent fraying once sewn. I did this for all for edges.




Once it’s all seamed, fold the material in half, lining up the top and bottom length to create your 8” - 9” bund and mark the center. Then measure out your 6 vertical stitch lines to create your 5 ribs.

Measure out 1” from the far right and left vertical stitch lines and make a mark along the top edge of the bund. This is where your pouches would begin. They should be no more than an 1” or so from the outermost vertical stitch line on either side. I also measured out 5” to mark the opposite end of the pouch, and repeating the marks for the pouches on the back side of the bund.



Then lay out your markings for where you want to place any Velcro to attach your pouches and CB to your flak vest.

I used two 2” x 1” strips of Velcro to attach the bottom of my pouches to keep them from flopping around.

I also attached a 4” x 2” strip of Velcro on the reverse side of the bund directly behind where each pouch would sit in order to attach the bund to my flak vest.

I avoided running any Velcro behind the ribs because I was fearful that it would effect the end result of my vertical stitch lines for the ribs. The Velcro I was using was rather stiff.

I added a 3” x 2” strip of Velcro on the reverse side along the top next to both Velcro closures to secure the back of the bund to the flak vest.

FRONT:



BACK:



Then measure and cut your bunting. I used three layers of 3/16” bunting giving an overall thickness of 9/16”.




Pin the top edge even and sew the seam.

Prior to sewing the 6 vertical stitches remeasure from the edge of the bund to the top and then the bottom of your first vertical line. Why? Because while sewing the top seam I found the the seam pulled the top about 1/8” so the top of my vertical stitch lines curved ever so slightly to the right. I noticed this because the marks I made back for positioning the pouches had shifted after I seamed it. The bottom of the vertical lines were fine. Remeasuring allowed me to straighten my lines.

Once you ensure that your lines are straight, begin sewing the vertical lines. Start at the seam (top of the bund) and stitch down to the bottom of the bund where there is no seam. Be sure to keep the fabric taunt by pulling to the right and left as you guide the bund through the machine. This will keep the stitch from puckering the bund. Slow and steady wins the race here.

Note: if you start from the bottom of the bund and stitch up to the seam, the fabric will be more likely to pucker. I made that mistake when creating my first bund and had to redo the entire bund.



All that’s left is to add your 2” Velcro closure to either end of the bund. Make sure that the bund closes right over left.

I still have to add my Velcro closure which will also serve to the seam the edges of the bund, and then add my pouches. I plan to stitch the tabs to the bund. I’ll post those photos once I finish.


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[Aradun]

Cod Piece

Using the measurements from Strider’s cod piece tutorial (35cm x 22cm)

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/15433-cummerbund-and-cod-piece-tutorial/

I created the pattern below, and here’s the test fit. Keep in mind that what you’re looking at is a newsprint cut out of the cod piece.

It measures 14” (35cm) in length and is 8 7/8” (22cm) wide at the very top. It begins to taper in about 5” down from the top tapering in to 7.5” at the top seam of the chevron. The chevron itself is 4” up from the bottom of the cod at it’s center point and the bottom of the cod measures 3” wide.

I know it should probably be raised about an inch but being paper it was a bugger to work with and get into position.

I’d really like some feedback on the shape before I cut my fabric.



The full pattern is here:




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[Strider]

If I recall correctly my pattern is with about 1cm stitching seam on each side so it will look a bit slimmer and at the bottom exceed the 2inch strap by just a bit.

[Aradun]

If I recall correctly my pattern is with about 1cm stitching seam on each side so it will look a bit slimmer and at the bottom exceed the 2inch strap by just a bit.

Thanks Constantin. If the cod extends 1cm beyond either side of the strap the I need to bring mine in about a 1/2 cm on either side. It currently 1.5cm.


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[Strider]

You're reference was to an older thread of mine, just make sure you got the latest version here:

 

[Aradun]

Taking the bottom in 1/2 cm on either side did give it a better shape.



You can see how much was taken in/removed in the photo below.



How’s it look now?


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[Aradun]

You're reference was to an older thread of mine, just make sure you got the latest version here:

 

I looked that over too and have been using it as a source for my build, but while it had the pattern it didn’t have the measurements as your older thread did. I’ll try to print your pattern from the new thread today and compare. Thanks!

 

 

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[Aradun]

[mention]Strider [/mention] Constantin, here is my pattern overlaid yours. The bottom is near perfect match though the very bottom is a 1/2 cm wider = 7cm compared to your 6.5cm.

 

My question is as we get toward the top, you can see how your pattern flares out about 1.5 cm at the top on either side. When I look at your pattern I can see your original pencil markings which actually line up perfectly with my pattern. So my question is did you adjust your pattern after fitting and add that 1.5cm for fit or am I looking at extra material for a seam?

 

I also created a pdf that will allow your pattern to be printed out on 2 pages of 8.5 x 11 paper for those without access to D3 paper feel free to post it in your tutorials or I can add a post with the doc if you want.

 

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e7e2ada14e91/Strider%20Cod%20Template%208.5x11%20printable.pdf

 

 

 

 

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[Strider]

1 hour ago, AradunFF said:

[mention]Strider [/mention] Constantin, here is my pattern overlaid yours. The bottom is near perfect match though the very bottom is a 1/2 cm wider = 7cm compared to your 6.5cm.

 

My question is as we get toward the top, you can see how your pattern flares out about 1.5 cm at the top on either side. When I look at your pattern I can see your original pencil markings which actually line up perfectly with my pattern. So my question is did you adjust your pattern after fitting and add that 1.5cm for fit or am I looking at extra material for a seam?

 

I also created a pdf that will allow your pattern to be printed out on 2 pages of 8.5 x 11 paper for those without access to D3 paper feel free to post it in your tutorials or I can add a post with the doc if you want.

 

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e7e2ada14e91/Strider%20Cod%20Template%208.5x11%20printable.pdf

 

 

 

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I can't see an image in your post but it's fairly straightforward; if you cut out the cloth exactly like the template and use 1cm space to the edged when sewing your results should look like mine 😉

 

[Aradun]

I can't see an image in your post but it's fairly straightforward; if you cut out the cloth exactly like the template and use 1cm space to the edged when sewing your results should look like mine
 

Sorry! I forgot to post the pic. Rectified.

So then the additional width IS for a seam, which makes sense. It makes perfect sense too when looking at how you have your chevron laid out. However, if I take that 1 cm line down to the bottom then the width will be just wide enough to accommodate the 2” strap, but I can make a simple adjustment to allow for a 1/2 - 1 cm on either side of the strap.


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[Aradun]

CODPIECE

Here's the pattern I created for the codpiece which is printable on 11 x 17 paper or on two sheets of 8.5 x 11 paper.  It's based off of Strider's pattern from his Lancer Tutorial.  My version has measurements in cm and inches.

 

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e80d1d30fa38/codpiece%20pattern.pdf

 

I used the pattern as is to cut two pieces of my white cotton fabric.

 

 

I then used a copy of the pattern without the 1 cm seam to overlay on my batting.  I used three layers of 3/16" poly fill and cut it to shape. 

 

 

I then trimmed a copy of the pattern to cut out a foam piece for the bottom of the codpiece to add some stiffness in order to prevent the dreaded bunching around the groin area due to pull from the elastic strap. I would have used white but with stores closed all I had lying around was green or blue. The good news is that it doesn’t show through the final product.

 

 

The seams for the fabric were sewn along all the pattern's edges except for the top.  It was then turned inside out so that the exposed seam edges were on the inside.  Forgot to photograph this part.  Sorry!

 

I then inserted the foam piece under the top two layers of batting and sewed the edges of the batting.  I did this for two reasons.  First was to secure the foam piece so that it didn't shift around in the batting and the second was to create one solid insert that could be more easily inserted into the codpiece without the layers shifting about.

 

 

 

Once the batting was inserted and set into position, I ironed the codpiece with a little steam to remove wrinkles and ensure my edges were pressed and flat.  I seamed the top of the cod and added 2" Velcro across the top to attach it to my flak vest.  Here's the finished codpiece.  All that's needed is to attached the 2" elastic strap.

 

 

I made the final mods to the flak vest cutting an additional 4.5" off of the bottom and added Velcro to the back to attached the 2" elastic strap for the codpiece.  I hope to work out the final fitting this week so that I can get the Velcro positioned on the front of the flak vest for the codpiece itself.  Once I do, I'll post a pic of the end result wearing the undersuit and cummerbund to get feedback.

[Chopper]

Excellent work on the cod, Dennis.

[Aradun]

Thanks Corey!


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[Aradun]

Okay. Today was finally a nice sunny day to suit up and see how everything is coming together. I have the strap fastened to the front of the Codpiece with pins until I get confirmation from the community as to how it looks. The strap is fastened to the back of the flak with Velcro. The feel of the strap seems to me to be Goldilocks - not pulling to tight and not loose or slack.



As for the back, the mud flap definitely needs to be trimmed up. Any recommendations by how much?



Here’s a close up of the codpiece and the top of the suede riding patches. I’m miffed that the top corner of the patch is exposed. I’ll need to curve both corners. Any other thoughts on how it looks?




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[Aradun]

Update:

- I trimmed the mud flap up 1”.
- I rounded the edges of my front riding patches so no sharp corners would be visible while wearing the codpiece. I repost modified templates for the patches later this week.

- I attached the strap to the front of the codpiece.



I don’t know if anyone else has done this, but rather than creating a small 1/4 or 1/2 seam on the strap, I folded it in on itself creating 3 layers of elastic strap and stitched it together abt 1.25” in all. That is the stitched area seen above.



What this did in effect was virtually eliminate the stitched area of the elastic strap’s ability to pull on the cod. In other words when you pull in the strap, the stitched area of the strap does not flex or stretch with the rest of the strap. I think it may help to reduce the dreaded crease that can occur on some codpieces because there is very little tension on the codpiece itself when pulling on the strap.

- I created a small insert for my pouches out of abs plastic sheeting that I had left over from my home build of a DLT-19. My Plastruct Welding Cement was dried up, so not wanting to make a trip to Home Depot or wait for delivery from Amazon I used regular pvc primer and cement to put it together. Worked like a charm. I Need to pick up some white spray paint to finish them off.



This insert will keep the pouch from sagging and help maintain the pouch’s overall shape while also allowing the pouch to remain accessible and useful. I didn’t want to come up too high b/c it’d make getting my hand in the pouch to retrieve contents difficult and would limit what I could put in my pouches.

Pouch on the left has the insert. Pouch on the right does not.



Overall the insert measures 4 7/8” x 2” x 1.5”.


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[Aradun]

Boots:

Using Cheesewhoopy’s Boot Tutorial.  The only thing I didn’t differently was apply an initial layer of E6000 on the toe cap of the boot and let it set for about an hour before applying a second liberal coat of E6000 before fitting the toe cap with the vinyl.  Greenyone suggested that tip in Cheesewhoppy’s tutorial and it worked well.

I gotta say that the boots are my favorite part of the build so far.  The tutorial was spot on, cutting and stitching was easy peasy, and the final fit is excellent.  I’m quite pleased with the outcome.  

 

Here’s some pics.  Front is glued.  Back is not glued yet, just fitted and tacked.  Still need to trim the toe, add the 1/2” toe strap and then the dog bones.

 

 

 

 

I’m toying with the idea of trying to stitch the dog bone to the back tube of the boot and then glueing the portion that covers the front as usual.  I’ll try to tackle that on Monday.  

 

If anyone see issues of concern, please let me know.

[Aradun]

So I managed to sew the dog bone to the tube. My thought wasn’t so much as to emulate the build of the originals as it was to prevent the dog bone from tearing away from the boot during a troop if it was merely glued to the boot.

To stitch the dog bone to the tube:

1) first line up the db in the position you want and then trace the out edge on the tube.

2) Make hash marks on the db and tube so the you can line it up properly for sewing it on the machine.




3) Using a pencil, draw out your stitch line on the db. I made a heavy mark on my start and end points so that I could better see those point when running the db and tube though the sewing machine.

4) remove the tube from the boot, and use tape to secure the db in place on the tube once you have the hash marks lined up. I used regular Scotch tape to make clean up easy in case the tape was stitched while running my lines. Apply tape to the front and the back of the db and tube to keep them from shifting while stitching.

4) Run both of your lines in the sewing machine.

5) attaching the other side of the db is a bit tricky because it won’t lie flat on the tube like with first side did. Here’s where you really need to secure it well with tape because it will want to shift on you as you run it through the machine.

6) Run your lines for this side and you’ll end up with a finished piece that looks like this:



Then glue the tube to the boot as per Cheesewhoppy’s tutorial.

The db really is secure because half of it is now sown directly to the tube on either side. It’s not going anywhere.

I then used a little CA glue to attach the db to the toe cap by applying just a little glue along the back side where the stitch lines where. It was just enough to tack it down.




The pins are there to hold things in place while the glue cures.


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[HSM76]

The boots look really great! Keep up the good work.

[Harbinger]

I agree, great job!

[Aradun]

4 hours ago, HSM76 said:

The boots look really great! Keep up the good work.

 

2 hours ago, Harbinger said:

I agree, great job!

Thanks guys!  I appreciate the feedback!  

[mickeymark34]

I just got caught up with this. Excellent work so far. I wish I was good at sewing. I like your idea of having the box for the pouch lower, that way it will hold its shape, but you are still able to access stuff inside. I may have to do that as well.

[Aradun]

I just got caught up with this. Excellent work so far. I wish I was good at sewing. I like your idea of having the box for the pouch lower, that way it will hold its shape, but you are still able to access stuff inside. I may have to do that as well.

Thanks Mark! I’m a novice too when it comes to sewing but I’ve learned a ton on this trip brother. Thankfully I have a daughter who is a fashion design major so she’s my go to when I have a question or need to talk stuff out. We’re always bouncing ideas off one another for our various projects. You’re lucky to have your sewing buddy. The two of you knock so much stuff out when you work together. I’m always amazed by your level of productivity.

The box idea for the pouches works great. It’s just enough to keep the pouches from sagging and maintains their shape, plus I can get my gloved hand in the pouch with out any issue making the pouches easily accessible and more utilitarian.


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[Aradun]

Just received word from RS Props this morning. BBB day is on the horizon! They’re assembling my commission this week and are looking to have it shipped in the next two weeks. Hot diggity! Can’t wait!


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[Aradun]

BBB day is scheduled for 6/22 according to UPS! Hopefully there won’t be any delays. Can’t wait!


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