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Posted

Hello all i have embarked on my scout armor. I will be 3D printing may hard parts and and finishing them my self and will be trying to make all my soft parts my self.

any feed back would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance for taking a look and help.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Welcome, fellow 3D printer/DIYer!  I'm basically following the same path you are (hard & soft parts).  I printed that exact helmet, and modded it for the CRL requirements.  I just finished up printing all of the hard parts, and I'm in the process of filling, sanding, and priming to get them ready for the final white paint.  I look forward to following your progress.  Keep up the great work!

Posted
3 hours ago, f3tt4l1f3 said:

Welcome, fellow 3D printer/DIYer!  I'm basically following the same path you are (hard & soft parts).  I printed that exact helmet, and modded it for the CRL requirements.  I just finished up printing all of the hard parts, and I'm in the process of filling, sanding, and priming to get them ready for the final white paint.  I look forward to following your progress.  Keep up the great work!

thank you and I'm about 1/4 of the way with the printing but unfortunately I have to whate tell i get more filament and I'm kinda worried about some of the fitment lol but nothing a heat gun cant fix lol 

Posted

What are you printing in?  I just switched over from PLA to PETG for this build, and I experienced some lifting from the build plate on some of the thinner parts (even running a heated bed).  This mainly occurred with the chest & back armor pieces.  I had to do quite a bit of "filling" with my soldering iron and extra filament for some of the gaps.

Posted

I'm using pla and i might switch to petg just for the chest and back but idk yet and I'm printing with a CR-10 with glue stick and a 1mm nozzle and haven't had any major issues yet.

Posted

When I used to print with PLA, I rarely had any lifting issues.  I'm thinking it's mainly due to my inexperience with PETG, and still working on dialing in the right heat settings for the initial layers and heated bed temp.  I'm using an A8 with a .4mm nozzle.  After a few failed prints, I finally had to resort to using the "raft" adhesion setting.  It worked a lot better, but it was still trying to lift slightly by the end of the print.

Posted

Do you use brims at all and I would try glue stick if you haven’t already and what is the temp of the room you are printing in you might need a enclosure.

Posted

I normally use brims.  Room temp could very well be a factor, as well.  My printer is right next to a window, and during the time I was experiencing the lifting, it was REALLY cold out (and, the lifting occurred nearest the window).  When I switched over to rafts for the problem parts, I also put up a piece of cardboard to act as a "block" between the printer and the window.  It did seem to help.

  • Like 1
Posted

Looking pretty good so far.  I would recommend the PET/PETG because PLA gets a little brittle.  I've also had PLA printed stuff warp inside my truck in the south texas heat, not PETG though.  I usually use zyltech's ceramic white for most of my stuff.  It's absolutely perfect for a base color for everything. I was wondering where you got the models or did you make them yourself?  There used to be a set on thingiverse but the user took them down. I wanted to make a set for my self and my kid and was going to use them to scale down to get a proper fit. Would you be willing to share  them?  It will help me fast track instead of having to model them up from scratch.

Posted
On 12/18/2019 at 2:17 PM, f3tt4l1f3 said:

I normally use brims.  Room temp could very well be a factor, as well.  My printer is right next to a window, and during the time I was experiencing the lifting, it was REALLY cold out (and, the lifting occurred nearest the window).  When I switched over to rafts for the problem parts, I also put up a piece of cardboard to act as a "block" between the printer and the window.  It did seem to help.

that"s good I would build a enclosure for mine but i live in Texas and %90 of the year i don"t need it lol 

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 12/19/2019 at 8:55 PM, oneredstar said:

Looking pretty good so far.  I would recommend the PET/PETG because PLA gets a little brittle.  I've also had PLA printed stuff warp inside my truck in the south texas heat, not PETG though.  I usually use zyltech's ceramic white for most of my stuff.  It's absolutely perfect for a base color for everything. I was wondering where you got the models or did you make them yourself?  There used to be a set on thingiverse but the user took them down. I wanted to make a set for my self and my kid and was going to use them to scale down to get a proper fit. Would you be willing to share  them?  It will help me fast track instead of having to model them up from scratch.

so i got mine from the guy in thingivers  you have to email him he is a 501st member  and what part of Texas are you in I'm in San Antonio and i plan on coating mine in resin so they should not warp 

Posted
10 minutes ago, oneredstar said:

@USG51North Houston for me. Thanks for letting now about the source.

any time and i just moved from Houston last year 

Posted
19 hours ago, oneredstar said:

@USG51North Houston for me. Thanks for letting now about the source.

I'm originally from NW Houston, as well.  Nice to reconnect with some fellow scout fans from the same area!

Posted
On 12/23/2019 at 8:14 AM, f3tt4l1f3 said:

I'm originally from NW Houston, as well.  Nice to reconnect with some fellow scout fans from the same area!

cool maybe we'll catch each other at a troop sometime.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/26/2019 at 9:08 PM, oneredstar said:

cool maybe we'll catch each other at a troop sometime.

that would be grate i just need to finish my suite now lol 

Posted

Hey USG.  I'm looking into making my first 501st approved build myself and am leaning towards the 3d printing side of things.  I've been modeling, molding, and casting all sorts of props for a few years now, so it's not the work that scares me as much as the approval process.  Are you worried the 3d models won't meet some unseen CRL requirement?  I'm worried about silly things like those vents above the nose actually in the shape instead of just a sticker.  CRLs don't say much, and the on screen helmets are not actually all that well made or detailed.  Curious to hear if anybody has said anything to that effect.  Also, what model are you using?  I've seen a bunch on thingiverse and Etsy, just curious what direction you were going.  Good luck and keep posting.

Troy

Posted

idk if i'm going to have a a problem getting approved. the new armor for the new movies was 3d printed then cast others. That and if it has to be cast or vaccuformed, then I will have a blank then I guess. lol the most I can say is to ask someone in your local garrison.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey there!  I'm excited to follow your build.  I'm planning on doing a 3D print myself, but most likely won't get started until later this spring or early summer (elementary school principal and high school baseball coach).  I haven't really done any of this before, so I'm interested to see your progress.  Also if you have any other threads or references I might use to help me better understand what I will be doing, that would be greatly appreciated.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/9/2020 at 2:51 PM, VigilantWookiee said:

Hey there!  I'm excited to follow your build.  I'm planning on doing a 3D print myself, but most likely won't get started until later this spring or early summer (elementary school principal and high school baseball coach).  I haven't really done any of this before, so I'm interested to see your progress.  Also if you have any other threads or references I might use to help me better understand what I will be doing, that would be greatly appreciated.

hello first off thank you and what 3d printer do you have. if you can i would switch to a 1mm nozzle it will make the prints go faster  

Posted
On 1/20/2020 at 12:54 AM, USG51 said:

hello first off thank you and what 3d printer do you have. if you can i would switch to a 1mm nozzle it will make the prints go faster  

I'm using a Robo R2.

Posted
6 hours ago, VigilantWookiee said:

I'm using a Robo R2.

I would get a bigger nozzle for faster printing

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

small update to the costume here is the start to my EC-17 Blaster 

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