kacrut Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 Oo i see you drilled a small hole on Tbit greeblies for securing it.... just asking... is that gonna effect with approval latter in time?... if not i think I'm going to copy your method there.
mickeymark34 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Posted January 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, kacrut said: Oo i see you drilled a small hole on Tbit greeblies for securing it.... just asking... is that gonna effect with approval latter in time?... if not i think I'm going to copy your method there. I never thought of it affecting with approval, perhaps I should look into it thought. I actually used a push pin an slowly worked it through the armor, and the holes it left was perfect for the wire to pass through. It was a little work to get it to pass through and my fingers were a little sore afterwards, but it all worked out.
kacrut Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 Ok, I'll wait what others think of it ya. Thanks.
Chopper Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 I know that the SC instructions tell you to use the wire to secure the t-bit but you shouldn't need it. I haven't seen any other armor kits use that method. My own t-bits are secured using E6000 and they're not going anywhere anytime soon.
kacrut Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Chopper said: My own t-bits are secured using E6000 and they're not going anywhere anytime soon. Do we Need to sanded first the area where T-bits are going to be glued? or just glue it then clamp it for a day? Thank you. *sorry mickeymark34 if i kinda hijack your Thread WIP. Edited January 23, 2020 by kacrut
greenyone Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 Not sure how necessary it is. But scuffing up any shiny surface is always going to help promote a better bond. I did exactly that, followed up wiht E6000 and some tape to hold them in place while drying.
Chopper Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 Yeah I did a bit of sanding on the back of the t-bit and used two magnets to hold it on until the E6000 cured enough.
mickeymark34 Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 I was able to work on my helmet with the help of a friend. We had to make some modifications to get everything line up right, but it’s looking awesome. Needs a little more work, then I’ll seal the gap between the dome and the back and paint it. What have you guys recommended for paint? I could find the thread yesterday.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chopper Posted February 7, 2020 Posted February 7, 2020 Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white primer followed by Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white gloss or semi gloss. 2
mickeymark34 Posted February 7, 2020 Author Posted February 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Chopper said: Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white primer followed by Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white gloss or semi gloss. Thanks Corey.
mickeymark34 Posted February 9, 2020 Author Posted February 9, 2020 I was finally able to pick up the suede after having to order it at the nearest Tandy Leather shop. Now I can finally finish the flightsuit.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
mickeymark34 Posted March 4, 2020 Author Posted March 4, 2020 I gave my soft goods a tea bath today. I’m hoping to make the pouches soon. I’m going to a build party on Saturday, so hopefully I can make some good progress.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Aradun Posted March 4, 2020 Posted March 4, 2020 I gave my soft goods a tea bath today. I’m hoping to make the pouches soon. I’m going to a build party on Saturday, so hopefully I can make some good progress.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMark, when you say “soft goods” are you including the pouches and the bund? The CRL requires the pouches to be white or off-white and the bund to be white. I always thought the tea bath method dated back to a time when the pouches were thought to be more natural in color as opposed to white. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mickeymark34 Posted March 4, 2020 Author Posted March 4, 2020 4 hours ago, AradunFF said: Mark, when you say “soft goods” are you including the pouches and the bund? The CRL requires the pouches to be white or off-white and the bund to be white. I always thought the tea bath method dated back to a time when the pouches were thought to be more natural in color as opposed to white. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Just the pouches and some strapping. My bund is white. 1
mickeymark34 Posted March 4, 2020 Author Posted March 4, 2020 Here is a picture with the tea dyed goods next to the my chest armor and cummerbund. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mickeymark34 Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 I attended an armor party last Saturday and made some headway on my Scout. I attached the tank to the back armor and put the stripes on. My friend Dave helped me sew the pouches.Yesterday, we plugged away and finished the cod piece. We also did the belt and attached the back plate to the chest plate and completed the thermal detonator.He started making a pattern for the riding patches but it started getting late. The plan is to finish putting the suede and elastic on the flightsuit, and start on the boots. Also, I have to tweak the helmet and paint it. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
Aradun Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 Nice job Mark! That was one productive armor party. The finish line awaits! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
mickeymark34 Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 I forgot we worked on it Sunday too. So three days of working on it straight.
mickeymark34 Posted March 12, 2020 Author Posted March 12, 2020 I installed my bells using the [mention]BikerScout007 [/mention]tutorial. Was a breeze to do.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
mickeymark34 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Posted March 13, 2020 Last night I painted the rectangle on the chest armor but it bled under the tape I used. Do you guys have recommendations for cleaning it up?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
mickeymark34 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Posted March 13, 2020 Just now, Chopper said: What kind of paint did you use? Testors 1138.
Chopper Posted March 13, 2020 Posted March 13, 2020 Ok that type should be enamel. You should be able to clean it up with a thin, stiff paint brush, a q-tip, and some testors enamel paint thinner. I've also taken a wooden toothpick, dipped it in the thinner, and rubbed the excess paint off that way. The wood is generally soft enough to not damage the plastic. Be very careful and go slowly, but you should be able to work the edges to remove the drips. 1 1
mickeymark34 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Posted March 13, 2020 1 minute ago, Chopper said: Ok that type should be enamel. You should be able to clean it up with a thin, stiff paint brush, a q-tip, and some testors enamel paint thinner. I've also taken a wooden toothpick, dipped it in the thinner, and rubbed the excess paint off that way. The wood is generally soft enough to not damage the plastic. Be very careful and go slowly, but you should be able to work the edges to remove the drips. Thanks Chopper.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now