JennyRuth's Scout Build

[jennyruth]

The armor was printed with white filament, and I wanted to keep the base as light as possible in case paint scratches. So, instead or rounds of gray filler primer, I did a solid round of sanding and then applied XTC 3D (until I ran out; more is on the way). After it thoroughly dried on those pieces, I am doing another round of sanding. I’m very happy with how smooth the pieces are turning out. Slowly but surely coming along.

 

[Aradun]

I’m very happy with how smooth the pieces are turning out.

You should be! They look fantastic!

[TreeHuggerMatt]

Printed bits look amazing!!

[jennyruth]

I’ve had my RS bucket for 2-3 years, and I knew I would need to mod it if I wanted open ear holes. Lancer or not, I live in Alabama, and it’s hot much of the year. Any chance of getting some ventilation would be helpful. But I kept putting it off because who wants to cut a perfectly lovely helmet? Thanks to @AradunFFand his tutorial, I had some good instructions.

To find where I needed to cut, I stuck pins at the top and bottom of the ear slot and then used my chalk marker to draw a line on the inside, between the two pin points.

 

I was terrified to pull out that foam piece sandwiched around the ear hole, but it actually came out easier than I imagined. It got a little sticky (literally and figuratively) trying to glue it back, but it got done.  One thing I didn’t want to do was to cut through that seam, but I didn’t see another way. However, some fabric glue repaired it easily.

 

Ventilation!

While I was working on the bucket, I put some padding inside (via hook and loop) to help raise it up the right level with my eyes and to help it not bobble around on my head so much.

 

The Velcro that came on the chin cup straps was sticky, but the straps kept coming off of it. I attempted a few different ways to rectify this with new velcro. (I couldn’t sew it because the slits on the helmet were too thin for both thicknesses, and I wasn’t up for cutting the actual helmet.) I ended up using fabric glue to adhere some new velcro to the elastic strap. And then added some fray check on the ends of the elastic.

It seems to have adhered well, so I think that’s it for the bucket until I wear it and need to make other adjustments. But for now, it can move to the “done” pile. 

[Aradun]

Great mods Jenny! We’ll done.

[jennyruth]

2 hours ago, AradunFF said:

Great mods Jenny! We’ll done.

Thank you for leading the way with a great tutorial!

[TreeHuggerMatt]

Awesome work Jenny!

[jennyruth]

While I wait for weather to cooperate with armor pieces, I’m putting some finishing touches on my soft parts. I’m am usually a soft talker, but I like to be very interactive at troops, especially kids. So, I knew I wanted to have a mic, and after talking with other plastic space people, I decided not to use a Bluetooth one. I got one for Christmas that is waiting to be used  

That meant I had to hide my cord. I’ve seen this done other ways, but I decided to go a different route and hide it behind my costume. I made button holes in the back of my pouch and in the cummerbund where they meet.

Then I made a foam bottom and back (with a hole) for that pouch to provide stability and shape. 

 

Then, I put it all on and made sure it was lined up with my armor, marking where those holes would align with my vest and flight jacket. I made more buttonholes in those two pieces.

 

Finally, I tried it all back on and took a weird picture looking down on the pouch, with the cord completely hidden under my flight jacket and making its way through to the speaker in the pouch.

[jennyruth]

When one drills holes for the rivets in the side of the belt, about how far from the edge is advisable?

Also, do you glue the rest of the belt inside? It seems like one rivet will hold it but not look tidy.

 

[Chopper]

2 minutes ago, jennyruth said:

When one drills holes for the rivets in the side of the belt, about how far from the edge is advisable?

I'd try and center it between the edge of the box and the edge of the belt.

2 minutes ago, jennyruth said:

Also, do you glue the rest of the belt inside? It seems like one rivet will hold it but not look tidy.

That's correct. Using only a single rivet there is a definite stress point, and, left unsupported, it will likely break or crack over time.

I used longer webbing and velcroed mine on the inside, though I don't think that step was really necessary. Glue would work as well.

[jennyruth]

5 minutes ago, Chopper said:

I'd try and center it between the edge of the box and the edge of the belt.

That's correct. Using only a single rivet there is a definite stress point, and, left unsupported, it will likely break or crack over time.

I used longer webbing and velcroed mine on the inside, though I don't think that step was really necessary. Glue would work as well.

Thanks so much. Here’s a related question. And maybe I just need to go look and see if there’s a post for how it all gets put together. But where did the back strap of the box go?

[Chopper]

You mean like this? You can ignore the velcro on the very back, I had tried that to hold my detonator on more securely, but in the end I didn't end up needing it.

[jennyruth]

6 minutes ago, Chopper said:

You mean like this? You can ignore the velcro on the very back, I had tried that to hold my detonator on more securely, but in the end I didn't end up needing it.

Yes! That’s what I meant! It looks like you have snaps. On the inside maybe? So you affix them in the back wherever it makes the boxes fall correctly in your leg/hip?

And does the back strapping then Velcro over itself to keep it on?

[Chopper]

Yes, I used snaps connecting both drop box straps to the webbing. You just can't see the right one b/c it's under the connected halves. Some people choose to sew their drop box straps on, but I like snaps b/c sometimes my straps get tangled and I can just pop the ends off and untwist them.

Yeah, the two halves of my rear webbing just velcroes to itself, one over the other.

[jennyruth]

I kept the blaster from RS and kept th holster too, as I knew they would fit well together. But, these slits for the “vent” should go all the way through, correct?

 

[Chopper]

12 minutes ago, jennyruth said:

I kept the blaster from RS and kept th holster too, as I knew they would fit well together. But, these slits for the “vent” should go all the way through, correct? 

For basic clearance, what you have is fine as is. For Level 2, they should go all the way through.

[jennyruth]

28 minutes ago, Chopper said:

For basic clearance, what you have is fine as is. For Level 2, they should go all the way through.

Thanks! I’m still trying to get as close as I can. Not a hard fix.

 

[jennyruth]

Just a couple more pieces to sand, but I started priming so they can be ready for top color coat.

 

As I’m getting closer to the assembly, it seems that people may have different ways of doing things. However, is this generally the most exhaustive post on how to actually put it together with all the required strapping?

 

[Chopper]

Yes, the Strider build is still one of the best Level 2 assembly threads. The CRL has changed slightly in the years since then, so you should still double check it against the current CRL. For example, off the top of my head, I think one of the changes since then was the width of the bridge cover strapping.

[jennyruth]

Starting the color coat today. Pretty happy with the color match to the helmet.

 

[Chopper]

Nice. What color did you end up using?

[jennyruth]

1 minute ago, Chopper said:

Nice. What color did you end up using?

Thanks! This one:

[Chopper]

Oh a custom color! Very nice!

[jennyruth]

9 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Oh a custom color! Very nice!

It's a pre-made color (kinda like a pantone), and I just picked the gloss finish I wanted.

[Cpt_Chops]

Wow - your armor looks amazing! Giving me some motivation to get back to the garage to finish painting mine! Looking forward to seeing it all come together for you.