Retrofire Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Lvl2 is Lancer. Be sure to read the threads here on the forum under Lancer submission. They have greater detail than the CRL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 So the actual specifications are more strict than the crl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 So the actual specifications are more strict than the crl? no, just more detailed information than what the crl shows here is the detailed lancer crl http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12081 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Hey thanks for that link. It gives me a guide to go off of for the build I am trying to create. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Can I detach the cod and reattach via Velcro onto the cummerbund instead of the vest? Also with the bicep pieces it indicates that the TBIT DETAIL piece must face forward on each arm. I also got a thin u shaped piece that it indicates need to be wrapped around the TBIT, through holes in the plastic and tied behind. Can you describe that process a little more? I don't see that thin u shaped piece anywhere on the crl. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 You can try and see if you can detach the cod and Velcro it back on cleanly, but be careful that you don't do anything irreversible. I still think you'll have an easier time concealing the Velcro on the vest as opposed to the bund. There should be two small circles on the edge of each bicep t-bit greeblie. The circles should be on the front edge of whatever arm it's on. The wire is to help keep the bits on. They didn't use them on screen and I didn't use it for my build. Borrowing an image from Chef: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I also got a thin u shaped piece that it indicates need to be wrapped around the TBIT, through holes in the plastic and tied behind. Can you describe that process a little more? I don't see that thin u shaped piece anywhere on the crl. that is for the SC kit, not sure if other kits do this ... i think it a way to help secure the tbit in some way. ill show you with my shadow scout ... as i didnt do this with my strider armor. its a black piece of wire between the 2 greeblies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 You can try and see if you can detach the cod and Velcro it back on cleanly, but be careful that you don't do anything irreversible. I still think you'll have an easier time concealing the Velcro on the vest as opposed to the bund. There should be two small circles on the edge of each bicep t-bit greeblie. The circles should be on the front edge of whatever arm it's on. The wire is to help keep the bits on. They didn't use them on screen and I didn't use it for my build. Borrowing an image from Chef: so those dots turn towards the front of the body on each side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Correct! Dots face forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 You can try and see if you can detach the cod and Velcro it back on cleanly, but be careful that you don't do anything irreversible. I still think you'll have an easier time concealing the 9Velcro on the vest as opposed to the bund. There should be two small circles on the edge of each bicep t-bit greeblie. The circles should be on the front edge of whatever arm it's on. The wire is to help keep the bits on. They didn't use them on screen and I didn't use it for my build. Borrowing an image from Chef: So I can glue these onto the armor as is and I don't need to worry about the u shape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 well, i had a 1 1/4" tube (for my td) .. made center marks across the tube lined 2 marks up on the bottom and side of the bell traced around the tube with a pencil and cut lightly sanded the cut edge So the 1.25" is the circumfrance of the tube? I know tons of questions. I appreciate all your help. I am also curious about what grit of sandpaper I should look into to sand down the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 So I can glue these onto the armor as is and I don't need to worry about the u shape? Dry fit it first, but then you can just glue it in yeah. Some folks use E6000 or high heat hot glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 I picked up some stickers for the tank that look rather long for it. I've seen images where the black lines on the tank are flush against either side of the central bump and others that are further away from that bump. Sc as you know has a molded bump on their tank. Should I just use their indentation as a guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Dry fit it first, but then you can just glue it in yeah. Some folks use E6000 or high heat hot glue. I've got E6000, dry fit simply means make sure that it will fit in its spot before gluing it down, correct? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 So the 1.25" is the circumfrance of the tube? I know tons of questions. I appreciate all your help. I am also curious about what grit of sandpaper I should look into to sand down the edges. yes, and i use a 400 grit .. just something to get rid if the clean cut edge from the scissors and to round the squared cut edge abit ... just a couple swipes down the edge of the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I picked up some stickers for the tank that look rather long for it. I've seen images where the black lines on the tank are flush against either side of the central bump and others that are further away from that bump. Sc as you know has a molded bump on their tank. Should I just use their indentation as a guide? use there indent and for the horizontal line go past the center bump onto the smaller bumps on either side about 1/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I've got E6000, dry fit simply means make sure that it will fit in its spot before gluing it down, correct? Yessir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haribon72 Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 My cod is velcro to the vest followed by a parachute clip at the back. To get the cod to the right shape, i used padding and a plastic backing. My wife sew a pocket behind the cod so I can remove the plastic when its laundry time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 use there indent and for the horizontal line go past the center bump onto the smaller bumps ons33 either side about 1/2" How long should the vertical lines be on both sides and what is the vertical distance between the right side tank line and the 6 vertical lines on the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 My tank has lines! I will be getting an xacto and taking the ends off of the Horizontal line! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Kay, this might be a really dumb question. But I am wondering, Do I fold the elastic into itself and sew it or do I cut the holes open wider? This is my first time doing this and I want to make sure that im doing things right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 You can carefully widen the hole lengthwise, so the elastic fits. If you have a dremel, you can use that, just go slow and take off a tiny bit at a time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 When I put the tank against the back armor there is a small gap between the two pieces? Do I adjust the tank to make it flush better against the armor or do I leave it as is and allow for the gaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 When I put the tank against the back armor there is a small gap between the two pieces? Do I adjust the tank to make it flush better against the armor or do I leave it as is and allow for the gaps? that is entirely up to you. i would adjust/cut the tank to get the tank flush to the back armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Does the flush make a difference with Lancer Status? I am also concerned about the greeblie on top of the tank. Does it go right against the back of the armor or does it go closer to the middle of the top. I have seen it put on both ways. Once again thanks for all your help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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