haribon72 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Welcome! Looking great! Go Lancer all the way with your build. You got some skills there! Try to make the cummberbund into two pieces with cod piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Wow Welcome! Looking great! Go Lancer all the way with your build. You got some skills there! Try ti make the cummerbund into two pieces with cod piece. Wow! Thanks for the compliment! I am actually going into my build hoping to get the Lancer specification. I loved chiseling out my boots, I think they look cooler! I am curious about the cod being separate from the cummerbund, I kind of like it being attached makes it easier to slide it all on in one piece, and I don't know how it would attach and still look right otherwise. I guess that the belt covers the seam between the cod and the cummerbund itself. I will be getting my armor on Monday and then the real fun begins! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 My Blaster, from different angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Wondering if blaster fulfills lancer specs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Under the present requirements your blaster would not meet Lancer spec: For level two certification (if applicable): No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. There are some ongoing discussions regarding the updating of the Lancer spec for the blaster but until those have been agreed upon the current spec will stand. Regarding the cod if you are planning to go Lancer it's recommended that the two be separate. Even if you don't choose to go Lancer it just looks better than a one piece. The reason for this is in how the belt sits just under the bund. It is true that you only see the cod from the bottom if the belt down but there is a separation you get when they are separate. It sets a layer effect that a one piece can't achieve. Trust me it took a lot of convincing for me to make a new bund with the two pieces separate but it really works. Here's a close up pic where you can see the layering. Note how the bund is just above the belt. I did it by sewing a layer of Velcro just under the bottom of the bund. Some of the Scouts make a full length piece that attaches to their vest and they loop it around and connect it with a parachute clip which ends up underneath the bund at the back. If you do it that way then when you put on your vest you'll put on your cod then wrap the bund around and you're ready to go. I know it's a little extra work but trust me the final look will be well worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 How would I go about refilling the barrel in to fit lancer spec? Also does the scope look ok? I can see how the belt flushes really nicely to the top of the belt. So you Velcro the top of the cod to the bottom of the cummerbund. Should I also make my codpiece skinnier than what i currently have it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I wouldn’t worry about the barrel for now. That’s something that can always be easily addressed if you decide to go for Lancer. The scope looks fine so no worries there. Regarding the cod piece you’re going for the look in the CRL image (the CRL is your friend). You can use the five ribs on the bund as a sort of gauge. In my case my cod extends about an 3/4†to 1†past the edges of the rib lines. Too wide and the cod starts looking diaperish. It might be of value to review some of the posts in the soft armor forum and take a look at some of the cod/bunds other Scouts have built. You are doing great so keep plugging along. Looking forward to seeing the rest come together so keep asking those questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I'm getting my kit tomorrow! I was noticing that you need to have shoulder bells rounded at the bottom. What is a good gauge to know the right angle to round them at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Should I use the volara that was suggested to me earlier for the codpiece to make the ribs stick out better on the cummerbund? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I hope my boots are tall enough, that they are in the right location compared to my knee armor when I get it tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Kay, im thoroughly confused. I am looking at Pandatroopers Tutorial and Griffins Lancer tutorial and one says use straps and magnetically attach the blaster and do a reverse edge on the pieces and connect the parts with webbing. Whereas Griffins indicate that you should attach the pieces with zip ties. Which one is accurate? I would really like to have a Lancer kit. I know that the CRL says you don't have to have the ties. Can someone help me not feel completely overwhelmed before I even start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 shoulder bells ... 1 1/4" diameter worked nice for my bells rounded edge i just used more batting (1/8" thick) for cummerbund ... there was 1 layer in there .. and i tore it apart and added 2 more layers if your boots are to tall .. its not a hard fix to adjust them, rip the seams out and fold over the top section and stitch them up again. the magnets attachment for blaster is for those blasters who have magnets. or those where magnets will be added/modded to them. you can choose that way but they may be another way to keep your blaster in the holster. for my shadow scout i used magnets but, not really a fan how the blaster would still wiggle around ... so, i added some scrap abs plastic on the inside of the holster to keep it secure --- its not coming out now all those are suggestions ... as you read, some things are not required for lancer. everyone has different ways of building and whats works for one person may not be suitable for another person build. as far as screen accurate ... we can see a white zip tie (2 lines) are on the scout on this image .. but, i think theres a black strap too behind the zipties .. you can see it in the pic too. i use a white zip tie like we see there in the pic ... most use a black ziptie ??? but, as the crl says you dont need to add this feature ... its up to you decided what route you are taking with your scout. some just go for basic, some go for level 2 (lancer), a few others go beyond lancer and try to look like the screen used scouts ... its all up to you look over more build wips and see other peoples ideas ... there is more than 1 way to build your scout. good luck ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 if your boots are to tall .. its not a hard fix to adjust them, rip the seams out and fold over the top section and stitch them up again. I am actually concerned that my boots are too short. I guess I will find out tomorrow when I check the measurements against the knee armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 ahhh.. i misread your post. it still pretty easy to change out just the shaft.. i had to do that with my shadow scout as they where to wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 I will be acquiring a DL-19X from Diamond state props. In the CRL it mentions the ejection port and the small disk on left side? What does that mean? I asked them and they didn't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Got the kit, threw on what soft parts I have, I see what you meant by disjoint the cummerbund and codpiece it will probably be better that way. But I was gauging the distance between the bottom of the knee guard and the top of the boot and it's about an inch or very slightly more. I will send pics when the knees are done. I'm incredibly excited about this endeavor if y'all hadn't noticed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 I will be acquiring a DL-19X from Diamond state props. In the CRL it mentions the ejection port and the small disk on left side? What does that mean? I asked them and they didn't know. the only weapon needed and looked at for lancer is the hold out blaster. you can get a dlt19x and troop with it if it meets the basic crl or if your gml allows you to troop with a gun that doesnt meet the crl or isnt in the crl for that costume, its all up to him so, contact your local gml. the only time i think this is really a concern is for lfl/disney sanctioned events, then you would need to meet the crl for that weapon and costume! i often see pics with troopers/scouts holding a gun we dont really see them holding on screen. as far as the extras you mentioned, they are: ~ ejection cover port added --- dsp has this covered/sealed ... its the square open areas on both left and right side where the belt would feed ammo through the gun. you can see through the real gun in this area. ~ small disk on left side --- dsp has this disk greeblie ... its on the top of the grip between the 2 screw heads, the larger circle greeblie. the gun is based on a real steel mg34 ... look up some pictures of it and then look at the dsp dlt19x pics, youll see what i mentioned above. from what i can see on dsp pics .. their dlt 19x meets the crl level 2 requirements glad you got your armor .. now the fun really begins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 shoulder bells ... 1 1/4" diameter worked nice for my bells rounded edge Is that measurement from each of the corner edge of the bottom of the bell?t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 shoulder bells ... 1 1/4" diameter worked nice for my bells rounded edge Is that measurement from each of the corner edge of the bottom of the bell?t well, i had a 1 1/4" tube (for my td) .. made center marks across the tube lined 2 marks up on the bottom and side of the bell traced around the tube with a pencil and cut lightly sanded the cut edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 I took a mock picture to show placement of knee guards in relationship to top of boots. (Remember the concern that I had). It will probably be raised slightly once the straps are attached but I think this is a good measurement of where everything will be sitting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haribon72 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I found your build thread again. =) The cummberbund must be two pieces for Lancer. Two inch velcro is very strong and will hold together well. I'm a big dude so don't worry about it seperating while trooping. Here are my photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 It looks like you detached your cod from your bund and then sewed extra fabric on to allow for it to reach your vest. What did you use to stiffen the cod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I took a mock picture to show placement of knee guards in relationship to top of boots. (Remember the concern that I had). It will probably be raised slightly once the straps are attached but I think this is a good measurement of where everything will be sitting. You're standing at an angle, but from what I can see, I actually don't think you don't need to raise your knee armor at all. The knee to boot top distance looks a-ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 You're standing at an angle, but from what I can see, I actually don't think you don't need to raise your knee armor at all. The knee to boot top distance looks a-ok. The reason I say it will go up slightly is because I haven't put the straps on the back, I'm sure that the tension will cause the armor to raise up a little more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakeputt Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 If I follow the lvl 2 CRL specs will I be building a lancer kit or are those different specifications? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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