762s Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 well, my visor falls open when i look down .. ugh! i looked into adding velcro and magnets but, the methods i saw do not work to well with my RS kits. the main problem with those methods for me was it pushed out my helmets profile in the chin area and caused the faceplate(chin) to stick out past the helmet on the side. so, i got to thinking of how to secure it and came up with a magnet method that does not effect the profile of the side of the chin. so... ~ i grabbed some magnets from home depot used materials and tools i already had like: ~ scrap abs that rs sent with their kits ~ abs/lexan scissors ~ sandpaper ~ ca glue with activator ~ 1/2 drill bit and drill ~ pencil ~ visegrips ~ i cut a few strips of abs about 3/4" wide and 1 1/2" long ~ cut a slight contour on the magnet side of the pastic to match the contour of the faceplate ~ cut the non magnet side of the plastic at an angle to conform to the visors angle ~ drilled a hole in the pieces to allow the magnet to sit in --- holding the pieces with a vise grip and drilling slowly as to not break the abs like in the picture ~ dropped a magnet in the whole and glued it from the backside ~ test fitted the standoff bracket and made adustments as needed to let it sit correctly *NOTE -- there is a left and right side with the standoffs ... in the pictures below the long side marked on each piece is closest to the lens next step was to get some marks of where the standoff was going to sit. so, i placed the helmet on its side and laid the standoff in place and slowly closed the helmet and made a mark on the faceplate opened the helmet back up ... lightly sanded the area where the standoff was going to sit and then remarked the standoff so, i knew where to place a bead off glue ~ glued the standoff on the visor side(non magnet side) first ~ then glued the standoff on the faceplate side all thats left is to close the helmet... ~ drop a magnet on the inside of the helmet and let it attach to the magnet on the standoff ~ mark the magnet ~ remove the magnet ~ sand the area where the magnet is going to sit ~ replace magnet and remark the area ~ remove the magnet ~ place a bead of glue and replace the magnet glues dried and now, when i look down the visor doesnt fall open i can even shake the helmet up and down and the visor wont budge and the chin profile is not compromised one bit 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3DImpact Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Nice! Dan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCwerewolf Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I'll be coming back to this. Thanks, Seven. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kroenen77 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 That is an awesome mod.Will do the same on mine. Is it not possible to use a thicker magnet inside the faceplate?So it would be no need to build a plasticarm for the distance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strider Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Sweet! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 That is an awesome mod.Will do the same on mine. Is it not possible to use a thicker magnet inside the faceplate?So it would be no need to build a plasticarm for the distance. im sure you can get a thicker magnet but, i think the pull strength(power) would increase too. or maybe you could stack some magnets together to get the right height without increasing the pull strength..? either way would be worth checking into and thanks guys ... everyone has different methods and seeing how one person does something may bring forward a new method or better way to achieve the same outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyder918 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Awesome...would be cool if you could do this on the other end too to keep the faceplate opened. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Awesome...would be cool if you could do this on the other end too to keep the faceplate opened. what helmet do you have? with the rs kits ... the visor does stay open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sibbel29 Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 the elastics on the outside of your jaws are just for show right? In my current helmet (ALT) I glued in some snaps and my chinstrap can be attached and detached with those snaps.. want to do the same in my RS and put a piece of elastic just for show on the outsied of the jaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 the elastics on the outside of your jaws are just for show right? In my current helmet (ALT) I glued in some snaps and my chinstrap can be attached and detached with those snaps.. want to do the same in my RS and put a piece of elastic just for show on the outsied of the jaw. i did the elastic this way as its what i seen on the screen used helmet. so, its not really for show, its one way to mount the chin strap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sibbel29 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 i did the elastic this way as its what i seen on the screen used helmet. so, its not really for show, its one way to mount the chin strap. but isn’t it really really uncomfortable?? outside needs to be screen accurate but inside needs to be a mix of comfort and accuracy.. same thing for the headband, many have replaced it.. I do have a screenused headband here to replace the one RS provided, but I don’t think I am going to use it because of the lack of comfort.. edit: I am going for this screen accurate solution though after I have thought about it during work (hahahaha). thanks again bro! Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 but isn’t it really really uncomfortable?? outside needs to be screen accurate but inside needs to be a mix of comfort and accuracy.. same thing for the headband, many have replaced it.. I do have a screenused headband here to replace the one RS provided, but I don’t think I am going to use it because of the lack of comfort.. edit: I am going for this screen accurate solution though after I have thought about it during work (hahahaha). thanks again bro! Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk np, and i see your edit and im glad you choose the route you have with the accuracy. actually, i dont find the chin cup uncomfortable at all ... and that goes for the headband too. both are perfectly fine for me to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DK5IDE Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Just did this mod on my second RS helmet. It works great and has made a big difference in getting a tight closure between visor and bucket, which I think would have been difficult without. Thanks for the tip! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Just did this mod on my second RS helmet. It works great and has made a big difference in getting a tight closure between visor and bucket, which I think would have been difficult without. Thanks for the tip! awesome .. glad someone tried it and had some success with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 argh! I was looking all over for this post, now here i am and the pictures are gone! Any chance you could put some of these pictures back up Seven? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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