BrinkHouse Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Hey guys! So excited to finally be starting this thread. Getting 2018 started right. As the title says, I'm underway on 3D printing a set of shore armor using Seans files! I'm using a CR-10 printer, which has a huge build area of 12"x12"x15". I just finished printing and painting my E-22, which I used as a primer of sorts, as I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I gotta say though, I'm HOOKED! I can't imagine how 12 y/o me would've felt. The CR-10 is awesome in that I can print a lot of pieces in one go instead of having to break them up into separate files. Prints take a lot longer but the payoff is worth it. I'll be updating this thread through the entire build process, all the way to submission and approval so hit that subscribe button, sit back, and enjoy the ride! It's going to be a long one! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Finished E-22 I just finished printing and painting my E-22, again using Seans files. I used this build as a primer of sorts, as I'm pretty new to 3D printing. You can find my thread which explains my painting/finishing process HERE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Yo neighbor, I'm gonna be watching this thread with great interest! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Be careful with Sean's files. Printed "raw" they won't give you some of the correct details. Happy to share my own experiences to date. Check out my similar thread. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Be careful with Sean's files. Printed "raw" they won't give you some of the correct details. Happy to share my own experiences to date. Check out my similar thread. Absolutely will do, thanks Joel. Checking your thread now and feel free to PM me if you wanted to share any specific details! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Nice work on the E22. I few observations if you wish to improve it Remove the circle adjustment on the scope as it makes it the wrong scope version , the correct version.is M38 1943 The cover plate is a M shape that covers the forward screws Sling lug at the front on both sides Again M Plate Needs cocking handle Again sling lug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Thanks, Stefan, I'll try to get those changes made! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Almost done with my helmet prints, Sean has a file called 'Eye Bags' which I'm a little confused on. Is it the black piece below the lenses as seen below? Screen shot from Seans install guide- And here are a few photos with/without. I haven't glued it yet, just have it taped until I can get a confirmation on how it should sit. Seems like it probably shouldn't sit so high in the middle? Almost all photos show it only towards the bottom/edges of the lenses. Is it most accurate to have this piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Yes use the eye bags , however as you have noted it should not go all the way across the middle. I would cut them off where you have noted as that would be more accurate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Ok, thanks Stefan! I really appreciate all your great feedback thus far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Finished bucket waiting patiently for its greeblies and blast shield! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Helmet is ready for sanding/filling/painting! (greeblies printed but not shown here) Ordered this lens which is similar to what I've seen others use, I wanted the curved front as opposed to the flat look of the welding shield. https://www.amazon.c...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER Also ordered the pads for the interior. I'm a fan of the military style inserts- https://www.amazon.c...+helmet+pad+set 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Time for your mud bath! My printer wasnt able to successfully print the snout circle greeblie, so I cut it out on my CNC machine with a 1/32 bit! Next up is sanding the helmet then first coat of primer! While I'm working on paint/detail for the helmet I'll start printing the armor pieces starting with the arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Wow, today was VERY productive! I have a feeling I'm going to get a lot done on the helmet this weekend... Here's the first of many, many sanding sessions. The benefit of the wood filler is that it dries super fast, sands beautifully and best of all, no fumes! It also cleans up with water which is great. Filler primer coat #1 went down great. Lots of the helmet is already smooth, other areas with print lines still showing will lessen with second coat, then whatever lines/defects are still showing will get more wood filler, sanding, and a last thin coat of primer. That's (finally) it for today. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 More helmet progress! Once the filler primer dried I went back and touched up a few areas with more wood filler and sanded the entire helmet down in preparation for the black coat. Then I sprayed two light coats of flat black enamel a few minutes apart. It went down great and now I'm waiting for that to fully cure (48hrs) before starting to apply my Sahara Beige, which I picked up at my local Blick Arts store. Paints ready to go. Montana Gold Sahara Beige, Shock Red and Himalaya blue, as well as some acrylic black for washes and some sponges and cheap brushes for application. Biceps are also printing away! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Looking good mate For the blue , have you got yourself some grey ageing spray ? To get that correct blue look as that is the magic ingredient Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 For the blue , have you got yourself some grey ageing spray ? To get that correct blue look as that is the magic ingredient This? https://dirtydown.co...ay-200ml-400ml/ I'm kinda interested to see what it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Stefan, I'll use a combination of black washes and lightly misted spray to get the effect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 This? https://dirtydown.co...ay-200ml-400ml/ I'm kinda interested to see what it does That’s the stuff mate Glyn Dillon told us how they got that blue grey 1. Primer layer and let dry 2. Himalaya blue layer and let dry 3. A very very light dusting of Matt black 4. A light spray of ageing spray The ageing spray is what chemically interacts with the other layers and gives it that blue grey colour . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 More helmet progress! Sprayed the interior with a few coats of plastidip. After that dried I masked the interior to start spraying the Sahara Beige. The base black was an enamel so I waited about 30hrs before spraying the lacquer. It went on great, I just applied in a few light coats and used a heat gun to accelerate dry time. While the paint was still a little soft I started scraping, scuffing, scratching, etc. Don't be afraid here. This is where the weathering comes in! These helmets would have been through a lot, dropped, scraped, scuffed, etc. I think they need that real detail in order to really sell, so don't hold back, and don't be precious. It's just plastic, after all. I kicked mine around the shop a bit, hit it with wire brush, sandpaper, scraped with screwdriver, etc. etc. Then it was time to start painting in the black details and begin the paint weathering. I used black acrylics and model wash for this, applying and then wiping back. In some areas where it really set in I used a sponge with some water to pull it back off. I'm pretty happy with the result thus far! Biceps are printed and ready for paint, and the shoulder bells are now on the printer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Also, what do you guys think about the weathering on the helmet? Dirty enough or should I go farther? This photo makes me think I'm close but its a little hard to tell out of context of the rest of the armor. May wait to do final weathering once I at least have at least the chest done and weathered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Added a little more weathering with some dry powder acrylic I got from my LHS. This stuff is great for adding dried mud/dirt look and really looks awesome combined with the Sahara Beige paint color. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 From when I did my Sandtrooper, I would recommend you do all of the weathering at the same time. That way you will avoid potential stylistic differences between pieces. Also, don't forget to use the masking fluid / toothpaste / mustard method to create a layered weathering effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 From when I did my Sandtrooper, I would recommend you do all of the weathering at the same time. I definitely don't have the patience for that! I'm pretty confident though, having done a sandtrooper as well as weathering on a few other projects. I'll use the helmet and various reference images as my guides as I move forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 Weathering looks good mate, I have found with the ST some can over weather it and it does not look as good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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