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Posted

Hey guys! Here is my recently finished E-22 which I 3D printed on my CR-10 using Sean's design. Unfortunately I don't have many pictures of the printing/assembling process, but I did a few things in finishing which I think may be helpful to others also printing this blaster.

 

1. After the blaster was assembled and sanded, I sprayed three light coats of high build filler primer. I let it set up and after about 6 hours I came back and using a screwdriver created some scratches and scrapes in the primer. The idea here is that once all the other paint layers are added, these scratches will really appear as gouges in the metals surface. More 3D dimensional than just painting on the weathering.

 

2. Next, I sprayed a few coats of hammered silver paint. The idea with this coat is to add not only the cast metal appearance in the finish, but to also setup for the next stage. Be careful with these coats as the hammered paint goes on thicker and has more tendency to run/drip.

 

3. If you follow this finishing process, it's important to let the hammered coats cure completely. I waited 48hrs before proceeding.

 

4. Then, I sprayed two light coats of semi-gloss black. Nothing fancy here. After the paint had dried for about 2-3 hours, I came back and started to do some weathering sanding. Because the hammered silver below is fully cured, and the black isn't, it sands away cleanly leaving the silver underneath. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or repetition in the same area, otherwise you'll go through to the primer. This is a VERY rewarding process, as the sanding process allows you to scuff the rifle in a much more organic way than painted silver detailing (though we'll do some of that as well). It also eats through the paint in a very realistic way, gradually revealing the silver and showing the depth of the layers. I also used sandpaper to add some scratches in the black paint at this stage in areas where I felt like there would be a lot of contact like the butt, cheek rest, barrel, etc.

 

5. Then I went in with some silver and brass (for the scope) and did some detail painting and additional chipping/damage detail painting. This is always my favorite step as you really start to see the realism come out and you get to tell a story with the damage and the life of the blaster. The more you can imagine the scenarios its been through the more convincing the weathering will look!

 

6. I applied some black model wash to a few areas, mainly the inner cylinder areas which were painted silver. This makes them blend in more and adds some texture like the metal has worn and scraped inside the body over time.

 

7. Finally I added two light coats of satin clear coat, and its all done! If you want you can even add some scuffs in the clear for additional weathering/aging, but its up to you how worn you want it. Because the shore troopers look pretty weathered in the film, it made sense their blasters would too!

 

So thats it for this post. Sean deserves so much credit for how beautifully this all went together. He really thought about the whole process from printing orientation all the way out to construction. I'm almost finished with his helmet and then on to the other armor pieces. I'll have a build thread for that separately, but so far the process is just as smooth!

 

Please leave any questions you may have about the E-22 or my finishing process, I'm happy to help and hope you all have a great new year!

 

'raw' prints, assembled and sanded:27682540379_cae9a85f27_b.jpg

 

finished blaster:

38748761014_93406d3a85_b.jpg

 

38748762294_8d46d0c372_b.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

I have left you a few improvements on your other post but will put it here also for those looking

 

Nice work on the E22.

 

I few observations if you wish to improve it

 

Remove the circle adjustment on the scope as it makes it the wrong scope version , the correct version.is M38 1943

The cover plate is a M shape that covers the forward screws

Sling lug at the front on both sides

 

2153_D82_F-_E918-4_A27-8_CFB-_A95_A816_B644_D.jpg

 

Again M Plate

Needs cocking handle

Again sling lug

 

F929454_B-_F7_E8-468_E-8_B46-_E7_D8_E67319_E5.jpg

Posted

You have the plate but the middle M has been missed

 

Here it is from Rogue One book

 

B046_FCDC-9_A20-43_A5-86_E0-40_D9_C676_F6_CC.jpg

 

And from CE ,

 

39_FBAB0_C-_B9_D3-4_A6_B-_A575-_A983_FB99797_C.jpg

 

I have one from SDC that’s shows the other side but can’t find it for the life of me , but you can see how the M Plate comes down and covers the forward screw

 

Also as a secondary a good reference is sideshow collectibles / Gentle Giant because as we know they get a full scan of the armour and weapons. Using those with the screen shot photos we can see how the M plates fit ;)

 

Sideshow collection

 

05_A99390-7301-42_A8-8_AFA-8_E9_C6_E6_E6_A2_E.jpg

 

9861_C7_B1-48_E6-477_C-_A268-2_F5320_DF4300.jpg

 

Gentle Giant

 

AD305573-3_D56-4_B1_A-91_DF-_E543_A2_C6_C898.jpg

 

DA9142_EE-3_CDB-4167-_B6_C0-_DFADF903_CE25.jpg

Posted

Thanks. Interesting to note also the clear differences between the different props. There is a notable difference to the central receiver just behind the head of the weapon light where the barrels connect. CE version is flat (as I modelled on my own) vs the triangular projecting section on the collectible and the reference book.

Posted

Ah yes, I believe this part broke when I printed those parts as it was connected to support material. I'll see if I can maybe add that with some sculpting putty!

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. Interesting to note also the clear differences between the different props. There is a notable difference to the central receiver just behind the head of the weapon light where the barrels connect. CE version is flat (as I modelled on my own) vs the triangular projecting section on the collectible and the reference book.

 

That was one of the issues with CE and a lot of other parts , people used the one reference , however the Capt has the arrow shaped front

 

1_C01946_C-093_A-46_D9-8_FB7-0_D2_EF4_C000_CC.jpg

 

3_B760205-5657-4_DB5-_B36_E-88_FECCAFEC23.jpg

 

7_B2_A183_A-0_A4_B-4_B7_D-8_CF9-08_AA4616_E817.jpg

 

Promo shots

 

DCCE1_B25-1_BAB-4_A30-8256-3_EB10866544_B.jpg

 

Most important is the screen shot

 

E512_A0_AB-1_D23-4_DD5-8_B27-_B2_AC1_E3805_CC.jpg

 

So using all the references we have , we can assume that the one at CE was a weapon mistake or it broke off at the end.

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I was looking for a good write up on weathering for a blaster and will use your technique.

Some questions on sanding though if you do not mind. Am I to understand you sanded your weapon after assembly? How did you get into the tight and tiny crevices to sand? Also what was your processing for sanding, ie grit type, and did you use paper or a sanding tool? Any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much.

Jake

  • 2 months later...

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