DK5IDE's RS Helmet Build WIP

[DK5IDE]

So, here goes. I finished an SC hemet a few months ago and really like it, but when I saw a post that RS was releasing their kit cast from a production-made helmet, my side vents perked up. Despite the delays I heard about shipping the completed (D. Beers) helmets, I placed an order for my kit on September 16. It arrived on the 26th of the same month. The 10-day turnaround was a welcome surprise.

 

 

Packing list

 

 

 

I'm pretty pleased with the casting quality and thickness of the ABS. I saw the hemet reviews in advance, so I'm pretty familiar with the watch outs on the hemet and have a mental picture of how to tackle them. I started with the faceplate. There is a very clear impression on the interior. I just drew a line inside it all the way around and fired up the Dremel.

 

 

[DK5IDE]

https://dk5ide.devia...-Line-709642093

[DK5IDE]

http://fav.me/dbqi3cd

[DK5IDE]

I used the smaller sanding drum on the Dremel. I referenced a couple of LFL helmet pix to get the final shape close.

 

 

I then use a metal rasp to take out the irregularities. I wrapped 400 grit around a narrow block of wood and went around the interior edges. I repeated this process with 800 grit to get it smooth.

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by DK5IDE
spelling correction

[762s]

good luck!

 

the right cheek faceplate under the ear is not correct and doesnt sit right against the visor .. left side sits correctly.

i hade to mod that area on both kits

 

as well, their chin cup.. ugh!

 

keep us updated!

[DK5IDE]

good luck!

 

the right cheek faceplate under the ear is not correct and doesnt sit right against the visor .. left side sits correctly.

i hade to mod that area on both kits

 

as well, their chin strap .. ugh!

 

keep us updated!

 

Will do! That right cheek looks to have a big gap up against that visor in the reviews, though it seems the prop they cast from did as well. I'm planning on cutting inside the check about 1/4" from edge, leaving it attached up top, then bending it back to sit flush. Can fill in with Apoxie Sculpt later. We shall see...

[Strider]

Off to a good start, man!

 

I've also assembled one of their kits for a friend of mine without modifying any parts. It is possible to align all the pieces well but is a bit tricky. Generally I'm not to fond about their kits but atm there're not too many alternatives for kits with a lineage to the original.

 

Anyway, here're a few pics from my RS build:

 

 

 

[DK5IDE]

Off to a good start, man!

 

I've also assembled one of their kits for a friend of mine without modifying any parts. It is possible to align all the pieces well but is a bit tricky. Generally I'm not to fond about their kits but atm there're not too many alternatives for kits with a lineage to the original.

 

 

Strider, that is one handsome bucket! The alignment you got on your right side looks really good. I'm gonna set it in place first and fiddle with it before I do any cutting/mods. The results you achieved are pretty encouraging.

[DK5IDE]

The area under the chin on the faceplate needs some work to get the return edges closer to screen-used. I first mark where the rolled edge would start (outer pencil lines). This is where I set my iron to then bend the plastic back to more of a 90 degree angle. Then inner pencil marks indicate the interior trim.

 

 

Here's the iron I use. I followed Pandatrooper's videos showing the technique for bending. I've gotten a little more confident with the process, but the heat can get away from you quickly and that ABS likes to express itself once those atoms get agitated.

 

 

Here's a close up of the right edge once worked over.

 

 

I use a small block of wood once the plastic is hot to then press against it and guide it to shape. I've also experimented with a "sandwiching" technique using two blocks (front and back) to ensure a straighter shape.

 

 

 

All edges now bent closer to 90. The ABS gets pretty rough on the edges, so helps to have extra length and not trim before heating up.

 

 

Once sanded, most of the rough spots smooth out. Here, I use 200/400/800 grit combos. I rough out the shape first, then refine with finer grits.

 

 

Since the plastic gets pretty thin/brittle in spots once worked, I cut and glued in a reinforcement strip inside on top of the return edge. Since I will be raising this part will see a lot of handling once worn, I want to make sure it won't crack from raising up and down.

 

[spacebob]

Hello there I'm a new member and I have just recieved this kit and will be learning the finer points as I go hopefully

 

When you attach the reinforcing parts will you be using acetone melted paste or a plastic weld type glue?

[DK5IDE]

Hello there I'm a new member and I have just recieved this kit and will be learning the finer points as I go hopefully

 

When you attach the reinforcing parts will you be using acetone melted paste or a plastic weld type glue?

 

Hey, spacebob -good luck with your new kit!

 

I'm pretty much using E6000 for every join. The CA stuff works really well, but I like knowing that if anything goes wrong or I need to mod in future, I can pull the parts apart and fix. E6000 smells for a long time, but it's never let me down. I've used it on my TK on some high-stress areas and it holds strong. Since it has a bit of give like rubber cement, parts are less prone break free under pressure.

[DK5IDE]

Joining the helmet halves is made a little easier since RS adds pencil guides for cutting. I took a knife along the edge on both sides, then snapped the ABS off. Sanded with 200 to take off the burrs.

 

 

 

I taped up the back/outer part of the helmet and cut strips to fit along the seam.

 

 

 

Rather than bending with an heat gun, I just used my hands, forming and placing strips up against the helmet until the shape matched the contours of the dome. I glued these in and held with clamps and neodymium magnets (never seem to have enough of 'em).

 

[spacebob]

Thanks thanks for the answers, I have used E6000 on my (unfinished) trooper suit and I totally get that its removableI, thats a great plus with it

I hope you don't mind more question's, you are right where I am.

 

I have been worrying about the lines on the lid and how acurate they are.

Especially the cuts that you have just made bringing the halves together.

The ones on the front of the visor itself seemed a bit wrong?

[DK5IDE]

Thanks thanks for the answers, I have used E6000 on my (unfinished) trooper suit and I totally get that its removableI, thats a great plus with it

I hope you don't mind more question's, you are right where I am.

 

I have been worrying about the lines on the lid and how acurate they are.

Especially the cuts that you have just made bringing the halves together.

The ones on the front of the visor itself seemed a bit wrong?

 

 

Spacebob- Happy to answer any questions.

 

I did use the lines that indicate the cuts in the center of both halves, including the visor which I haven't posted yet. It was pretty easy aligning the parts together once I did. For the other areas, I'm only using the pencil lines as a suggestion. The ones in the front of the visor taper too much toward the bottom. There should be even spacing from top to bottom from what I've read and seen. I'm going to check LFL prop references for guidance and draw my own (measure twice, cut once kinda thing).

[spacebob]

Good good thanks ,

I did some working out to get the value between the two traps on the propstore lid in photoshop and came up with 58MM. The pencil marks on the helmet add upp to 61 or so.... so with that in mind and your last answer I'm pretty pleased with the pencil marks in relation to over all width time to commit.

[762s]

i followed the rs lines on both my kits and they are different widths

[DK5IDE]

i followed the rs lines on both my kits and they are different widths

 

Ha. I guess RS is just try to keep us on our toes...

[DK5IDE]

Good good thanks ,

I did some working out to get the value between the two traps on the propstore lid in photoshop and came up with 58MM. The pencil marks on the helmet add upp to 61 or so.... so with that in mind and your last answer I'm pretty pleased with the pencil marks in relation to over all width time to commit.

 

Well, when I measure from lower right edge of left trap to lower left edge of right trap I get 65mm. More room for my big melon, I guess.

[DK5IDE]

Another area that needs a bit of reshaping is the top return edge of the visor front. Comparing it against screen-used examples, the RS has a fairly pronounce flaring out of this upper edge. Screen-used helmets look to have and edge that bends 90 degrees.

 

 

Working around the top edge with the iron, I heated it and then quickly sandwiched the ABS between two thin pieces of wood to bend it back evenly.

 

 

After some rough sanding, the return is fairly clean. Bondo will fill in the few dimples that I produced with the heating.

 

 

Here's what the RS "factory" lines look like on the visor.

 

 

I redrew them based on a couple of reference photos like this one:

 

 

Redrawn lines with preliminary rough cutting.

 

 

After grinding down with a sanding drum on the Dremel and sanding with 200 grit, I'm pretty close to final contour. The angle of the photo makes the upper edge look deeper than it is compared to the sides. I finalized the edges with a 2" block of wood wrapped in sandpaper to smooth out the irregularities.

 

[DK5IDE]

I eyeballed the width of the joining strip under the front part of the visor from LFL references. I allowed 1 1/4" length to allow the faceplate to seat up against it and help with alignment.

 

 

 

 

Here's what the rear faceplate lower edges looked like before glueing in.

 

 

 

 

I glued the top front of the faceplate first to make it easier to line up the side parts later.

 

 

 

After letting it dry for about 24 hours with E6000, I glued the sides in.

 

 

 

Completed front view. I used as many clamps and magnets as I could to ensure the joins were tight.

 

 

 

Side view:

 

 

 

Before joining the front to back, I reinforced the interior hinge area with a disk of ABS.

 

 

 

For the square cutouts on the hinge, I drilled one small hole in each corner. Then I dremeled out the center and worked around to remove the excess. I used a flat file to square up the sides.

 

"][/url]

[762s]

 

Before joining the front to back, I reinforced the interior hinge area with a disk of ABS.

 

 

 

i was wondering about these other rs kit builds that some of you all started .. glad to see some progress!

 

 

i have done the same reinforcement with abs disc on the last 2 kits i am building .. my first 2 kits i reinforced with apoxie sculpt which works good too but, i think i like the abs option much better.

 

 

looking good and keep us posted!!

[DK5IDE]

Thanks! Have been working steadily on it, but haven't been updating the build blog as diligently.

 

i was wondering about these other rs kit builds that some of you all started .. glad to see some progress!

 

 

i have done the same reinforcement with abs disc on the last 2 kits i am building .. my first 2 kits i reinforced with apoxie sculpt which works good too but, i think i like the abs option much better.

 

 

looking good and keep us posted!!

[DK5IDE]

To secure the lens to the faceplate, I borrowed the method used on the SC kits. I shaped 6 clips and positioned them around the cutout of the faceplate. The clips are long enough to allow you to bend them up slightly so you can slide the lens under them. For the bottom center clip, you drill a small hole through its center into the lens material once in place. Place a small screw into the hole through the lens material to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

 

 

 

Clip closeup:

 

 

 

To shape the lens material, I place a piece of paper into the cutout area, then trace the edges. I then add about 1/4" all around to allow enough material to be held by the clips.

 

 

 

Here's a test fit of the lens into the clips. I left the plastic film over the lens to prevent scratches.

 

 

 

For the ear vents, I hollowed out the center with a dremel, then went around the edges with metal files and sandpaper.

 

[DK5IDE]

To get proper alignment of the faceplate/visor to the bucket, I ended up drilling the holes off center. I initially drilled them dead center. I found that left too much space between those pieces.

 

 

 

The side alignment:

 

 

 

(Left shot is my bucket, LFL reference on the right) I ended up shaving off more than I expected on the top of the visor to get it to close properly and lock into place once flipped up. I didn't need to follow the pencil guides from RS. They indicated a wider cut closer in to the hinges. I still need to shave off in the area that comes in contact with the lid stop on the bucket piece. The front pops loudly when I pull it back down. Not sure how much popping is normal.

 

 

 

Solved the popping issue on the right side by filing and sanding down the nub where the visor was hitching. Now action is smooth and no popping.

 

[762s]

hahaha ... finally get to see someone with the same issues

 

i drill the holes off center too -- the premade marks are no good!

 

your top view looked like mine until i realized opening the visor full up nicks the paint .. if you look closely at the sa one you posted .. from bolt to where it starts to curve with the helmet is straight for a few inches ... i went this route instead of having a nice tight gap around the visor/helmet

 

 

POP!!

yeah i got that too on my first helmet ... the other 3 builds there is no pop ... my pop is on the right side and not sure where or why its there ?!?!?!?

 

 

now ... add the 8th vent