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Mr Pauls Shoretrooper Build


mr paul

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Shoretrooper Rear Cartridges

There appears to be 2 different types of triple cartridge that can be found on the rear skirt of the Shoretroopers.

One is what I will call a "hero" version and the other a "stunt". There are not great pictures of these cartridges publicly available as they are tucked around the back mostly out of reach. Luckily there are enough images available so I can show that one set of cartridges is hollowed out whilst another set looks to be completely filled in.

Alongside this I have been fortunate enough to have had access to better reference images of both sets but unfortunately I cannot share those out. We have however done our best to replicate the 2 different variants as best we can both in scale and detail.

The stunt version is very interesting and has been somewhat crudely filled in by hand. If you look at the images of the resin casting I have made of our model and how I have treated it, you will get a better idea of what the stunt cartridges actually look like and how they have been prepped to make them easier for moulding and casting.

Please note I am referring to them as stunt and hero to distinguish between the 2 variations based on nothing other than the build quality and how one is more detailed and the other is crudely filled in. They were not purposely made for stunt and hero armour.

These "stunt" cartridge kits are now available through my FB page www.facebook.com/totalgrunt

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  • 2 weeks later...

A look around the new shins. I have made mine up to look like a post production beaten up pair.

Flared, expanded ankles (to aid getting them on and off) visible velcro and revised weathering both colour and application.

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Made some mods to the ANOVOS thanks to some observations from a friend and his work on his own helmets. Forehead has been bent outwards and the lens lowered to make that wide ANOVOS step a more appropriate size. Also removed the previous weathering and reapplied it employing the same colour and techniques I am now using for the rest if the armour.

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Here is a recent ANOVOS helmet that I have been commissioned to completely strip back and repaint by a client.

I am very pleased with it. Nearly 3 years of researching, trial and error has culminated in what was a well practiced, very straight forward, quick and successful paint application.

My techniques have really been boiled down over time so I can get the required effect efficiently and consistently.

Paying close attention to the right kind of marks found around the ST helmets. The way/order the paint was applied. The correct texture. The correct weathering and the way the weathering appears around the helmet. Some quick mods were also made to the helmet thanks to some top tips from a man in the know.

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In the light of the recent commissioned ANOVOS paint I realised mine needed updating to bring it up to speed. So here is my remastered ST bucket (left) next to the commission paint (right)

Much more happier with my helmet mods, paint, colour, texture and breakdown.

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One can tell these were supplied by the same Scariff armoury fantastic side by side.

 

Every time I look at your costume parts I notice something new (to me). Today is no different. I’ve never really given the blast shield bracket much though, but today I can’t help but notice how different the Anovos version is from the SFv2. Sean’s is more like a wedge or a spacer, whereas the Anovos seems to be longer, rests on the rim, attaching to the helmet at the top only and with 2 prongs to the shield.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Tarok said:

One can tell these were supplied by the same Scariff armoury emoji6.png fantastic side by side.

 

Every time I look at your costume parts I notice something new (to me). Today is no different. I’ve never really given the blast shield bracket much though, but today I can’t help but notice how different the Anovos version is from the SFv2. Sean’s is more like a wedge or a spacer, whereas the Anovos seems to be longer, rests on the rim, attaching to the helmet at the top only and with 2 prongs to the shield.

 

 

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The secondary plate has 2 prongs as well giving the appearance that they extend all the way through to the helmet. It's quite an organic design in that respect. Not what one would expect.

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Here is my take on the Shoretrooper helmet internal rigging.

It is actually very comfortable and keeps it from resting on the bridge of my nose whilst keeping the weight down. Good air circulation too.

1" upholstery foam.
19mm black polypropylene webbing (Take note of the standard weave)
JSP safety helmet chin cup.
Plastic 20mm side release buckle.
13mm ID rubber O ring.

....oh and very strong glue.

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Here is my take on the Shoretrooper helmet internal rigging.

It is actually very comfortable and keeps it from resting on the bridge of my nose whilst keeping the weight down. Good air circulation too.

1" upholstery foam.
19mm black polypropylene webbing (Take note of the standard weave)
JSP safety helmet chin cup.
Plastic 20mm side release buckle.
13mm ID rubber O ring.

....oh and very strong glue.
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Is that an Anovos with their padding stripped out? Im thinking of removing it from mine just because it seems a bit much and makes the helmet feel stuffy.

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Yes this is a stripped out ANOVOS. I had the privilege of seeing some reference showing the inside of one of the SU helmets. This is how the padding was arranged in that particular helmet. The chin strap was assembled and glued in as seen above. Another image below shows the block foam padding at the side of the hemet.

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Here is my bucket again. Revised. A little bit more muck added. Also because of recent reliable intel the emblem had to be repainted.

The forehead emblem of the Shoretrooper is not red and neither should it be represented that way.

Looks like another colour to be added to the Shoretrooper armour palette. Orange. 

My assumption that it was red was based purely on the facts that I have spent more time looking at the armour instead of the helmet. Lighting played a factor in every image due to the emblem being up top and also the AC-ACT is emblem is very much red. Also the bicep of the ST is Toyota red therefore I jumped without looking and assumed they used that same red on the forehead. They did not. I was wrong. I am glad I was wrong as the orange looks so much better and completely changes the appearance of the helmet/armour.

Once you start looking it's kind of obvious in all the reference available. I know I am not the first to have observed this and added it to my kit. However the majority are using red and the CRL states red. Along with all the merchandise that accompanies the Shoretrooper. It should be orange.

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That’s a really interesting find, Paul. I’d just assumed it appeared lighter due to the weathering techniques used by the prop team, and the natural light washout caused by the Maldives beach and ocean.

Any recommendations for a colour?


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7 hours ago, Tarok said:

That’s a really interesting find, Paul. I’d just assumed it appeared lighter due to the weathering techniques used by the prop team, and the natural light washout caused by the Maldives beach and ocean.

Any recommendations for a colour?


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It seems to be quite an emotive subject over on my page so I am not going to say too much lol. I personally am using Spicy Orange. A couple of these images are my emblems in the orange.

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It seems to be quite an emotive subject over on my page so I am not going to say too much lol. I personally am using Spicy Orange.


Lol, I guess I better head over there and check out the comments


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Guys please remember that this build is Paul’s and fantastic as it is, Paul is not going to clear it as per the 501st CRL.

The colour is emotive and was discussed a lot because we have so many photos of the helmet and each photo can show a slight different shade depending on the lighting used and the camera used as they all will distort the colour in there own way.
Weathering techniques is very important as it can 100% change and distort the colour.

We did ask Glen Dillon but he never got back to us with a direct answer and as this has came up again we shall try again.

If Paul can reveal his reliable source or have another form of direct conformation on the actual colour used , which is not just based on a personal opinion then we can 100% look at updating the 501st CRL.

Until then our members need to stick to the CRL requirements.



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I'll stick with the orange thanks all the same.


It’s your build Paul you can do what you want and we don’t have any issues with that at all as you are not clearing to 501st

Like my post said the wheels are in motion to ask Glynn again.

The post was just a reminder to our members who are clearing to 501st that the start standard is the CRL.
Since the CRL was first wrote its has changed multiple times with good hard evidence and we will always do that :)


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