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Posted

Hello everyone. I’m new here but I’ve been lurking around for a while and have not found any good threads showing off 3D printed helmets. So I figured I would post my progress for others to see. About two weeks ago I picked up a mono price maker select plus and decided I would start by printing Sean’s mk2 helmet files.

 

I am having a blast with these. I have been printing non stop for the last week or so.

 

Here’s a few pictures of my progress. I only have 4 parts left to print but I’ve run out of filament. So I have more on order.

 

Once I have everything printed I’ll upload more pictures of the assembly and of the finishing of the helmet. I’m planning on using smooth-on xtc-3D. To smooth it and strengthen it. Then I’ll sand prime repeat. What is the best paint to use for the final color?

 

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finished printing all the parts and glued them all together. Took two rolls of filament and I’m not even sure how many hrs of printing, but it’s finally done. Next step is the smooth on xtc. That will smooth it out then I’ll prime it, sand it, sand it some more and then paint it.

 

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  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Started applying the XTC-3D to the helmet. Letting it cure then I’ll check it over and see if a second coat is needed.

 

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Posted

Thanks wannabeuk. I love the stuff too. Really easy to use.

 

So quick update. I haven’t done much. I had to do some repairs / upgrades to my printer so I haven’t been able to work on the helmet. Printer was jamming so I finally ordered the all metal hot end kit from micro Swiss and installed the y-axis tensioner I printed months ago. Printer is up and running so much better than before.

 

In regards to the helmet I’ve sanded a bit and I finally got my paints in. So excited to get back to work on this.

 

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Posted

@skigro Microswiss is definitely one of the best upgrades for the i3 clones. I started out on a Wanhao myself. If you don't already, make sure you also have the flexible couplers for your Z axis motors. This will avoid Z wobble issues.

Posted
@skigro Microswiss is definitely one of the best upgrades for the i3 clones. I started out on a Wanhao myself. If you don't already, make sure you also have the flexible couplers for your Z axis motors. This will avoid Z wobble issues.

 

 

I will look into those parts.

 

I was going to be upgrading the filament extruder gears, the extruder lever and plate soon anyway, so I may pick up the couplers at the same time.

 

Slow moving progress on the helmet, mainly due to the holidays and being sick. I also need to pick up some more sandpaper. Plus I have like 4 concurrent projects. I sunk a lot of time into my new modeling project the last few days. I didn’t have time for anything else.

 

If anyone’s curious about my current projects...

3D printed Shoretrooper helmet (Sean k design)

3D printed Boba Fett helmet (RafalFett design)

3D printing R2-D2 (Mr Baddely design)

Modeling Luke ROTJ v3 lightsaber

 

 

I hope to get back on track with the shore trooper helmet this weekend.

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I will look into those parts.

 

I was going to be upgrading the filament extruder gears, the extruder lever and plate soon anyway, so I may pick up the couplers at the same time.

 

Slow moving progress on the helmet, mainly due to the holidays and being sick. I also need to pick up some more sandpaper. Plus I have like 4 concurrent projects. I sunk a lot of time into my new modeling project the last few days. I didn’t have time for anything else.

 

If anyone’s curious about my current projects...

3D printed Shoretrooper helmet (Sean k design)

3D printed Boba Fett helmet (RafalFett design)

3D printing R2-D2 (Mr Baddely design)

Modeling Luke ROTJ v3 lightsaber

 

 

I hope to get back on track with the shore trooper helmet this weekend.

 

 

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R2 is a definite time-sink. You should probably invest in a CR10 S5 in order to avoid printing the dome in sections and the inevitable join lines.

Posted

 

R2 is a definite time-sink. You should probably invest in a CR10 S5 in order to avoid printing the dome in sections and the inevitable join lines.

 

 

I was thinking that too. But I don’t have that kind of money. If I could find it cheap I’d pick one up. The wife would probably kill me though.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally got around to sanding and priming. Yesterday I started the filling and sanding process. I forgot how much I dislike sanding. I still have the dome to sanding and fill.

 

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Posted

Did some more wet sanding and more filling today. Once the filler dries I’ll sand some more.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Update. I did some more sanding and then primed and applied the flat black. Now time to tape and start my Sahara beige.

 

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Posted

I was able to get the Sahara beige on the helmet tonight. Looks pretty good. Now I need to work on the blast shield.

 

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Posted

Removed the tape. Few spots of the black need a touch up from my terrible masking job. But overall looks pretty good. Not a time to weather. Anyone have a good tutorial on doing some weathering. This is my first time.

 

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Posted

Started to scuff the edges and add some damage. It’s subtle but I think it looks decent. I felt terrible doing it after I tried to get the helmet smooth and get the paint perfect. Now I’m messing it all up and chipping away paint layers. Oh well. Now I need to add some washes and dirty it up. Any tips on that step?

 

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Posted

So I dirtied it up. Not sure how I feel about it. What do you guys think?

 

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Posted

I would say it could use a bit more black wash, but the camera lighting could make it appear lighter then it really is. Maybe a few darker areas would give it a dirtier look. Compare it with some ref pictures. How did you apply the wash? Did you wipe it off?

Posted

I used some acrylic burnt umber and black. I diluted them and then dipped a large brush in and painted it on in certain areas. Then let it sit a few minutes and wiped some off.

 

Some spots I took a small brush and dropped it in the corners and let it drip down and collect and dry for 10 mintes or so. Just kept doing both all over until I got a good looking stain. I used mostly Brown all over but used a small amount of black to get darker tones.

 

Used mostly black in the dome grooves.

 

Used the paper towel I was wiping the brushes off on to add a little bit of dirty texture all over by dabbing or wiping it.

 

I also took a sanding sponge to a few areas to soften some of the stains and tried spraying some water over certain areas and wiping it up.

 

I’ve never done this before so I was just kind of making things up as I went. Lol

 

It’s pretty dark IRL. Only thing I’m not too happy about is the right side jaw is blacker looking than the left. Left is more brown.

 

I would say it could use a bit more black wash, but the camera lighting could make it appear lighter then it really is. Maybe a few darker areas would give it a dirtier look. Compare it with some ref pictures. How did you apply the wash? Did you wipe it off?

 

 

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Posted

Sometimes it’s hard to capture the amount of weathering with a camera, I can’t really see the difference between the left and right jaw. In some areas you can see you used a brush to apply it. I mostly used a sponge to apply the wash, and then used a paper towel to dab it off. Wiping will leave a trail so I wouldn’t use that too much.

Posted

I sanded down the nose and chin greeblies. Then used my airbrush for the first time ever. I was very excited but I still need play around with it more.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Done with the weathering. Now I need to install the visor. This has been a fun build.

 

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Posted

So I finally decided to build the rest of the armor. I had only planned to do a helmet, but I love this armor so I’m printing the rest.

 

I made some modifications to Sean’s files to make the center of the chest a little more accurate. I widened the center indentation. After I printed I decided I needed to make further modifications to it. So I will be printing it again. new design image below.. I wish I could get Sean’s original files that he created the STL files from. It would make things easier.

 

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