Slay Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 For those who have 3D printed Sean's armor/helmet, what settings did you use for the prints? Thanks in advance for your insight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Not having done ShoreTrooper Armour, but having printed lots of things, I would suggest that the settings will be more particular for your printer/filament rather than what is being printed. Both my mate and I have identical printers (Prusa i3), but our settings vary to get the best results. What sort of things are you trying to achieve? fast/lightweight prints or sturdy armour parts? Thinner shells and higher print layers will give you faster prints, but at the expense of quality and they will probably require more remedial work to get them looking nice. I tend to use a 3 shell, 10% infill at a 0.2mm layer height and for most things this is acceptable. I went a bit heavier when I did some BB-8 parts, 4 shell, 50% infill. Discussing 3D printer settings can be a bit like asking how long is a piece of string or what the tastiest food is... You'll probably get a million different answers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slay Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks! I figured there would be a lot of trial an error to get everything dialed in to get the desired result. Right now I'm trying to put an estimate together for the amount of filament, cost and time for everything. I'm sure the final numbers will be different, but I had to start with something. I appreciate your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skigro Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I’m new to 3D printing. The shoretrooper helmet is the first thing I’ve printed so far. I’m sure my settings are overkill but I’m printing with 3 shells 30% infill. I can tell ya it’s taking forever. But they are pretty strong prints. Lol. Anyone know what the best settings for the top and bottom solid layers is? Mine was defaulted to 10 layers for both. Not sure if that’s good or bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gojira72 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 I am currently printing the Blaster on a Taz 5 and I am using the standard ABS Settings. And all of my pieces have had pretty decent results with only a few minor issues. The only real issues I have had I have made them my self, so I really can't give much insight on your work, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I've recently finished printing and post processing my E-22, which was mostly printed at .2, 20% infill, 4 shells. I went with slightly higher infill and shells to make it stronger in case it was dropped. It's rock solid and I don't worry about it breaking, well not any more than I would with any other plastic prop. I'm printing the rest of Seans armor now, starting with the helmet, for which I've dropped to 10% infill with 3 shells. A lot faster removing that 4th shell. For the other larger armor pieces with less detail like the biceps, shoulder bells, chest, forearms, etc. I'll probably switch to .3 layer height w/ 10% infill and 3 shells to increase speed, the pieces are thick enough that they should still be plenty strong, esp. once I've finished them with wood filler (much better gap and surface finisher than bondo or resin, IMO) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Print everything at 0.3mm layer height with either 2 or 3 perimeters. Printing at 0.2 just doubles your print time with no real visible difference. Make your infill around 20% but be careful where some of the files result in thin walls (<3mm) as this can cause voids in certain areas and result in weak parts. I recommend finishing with a couple of XTC resin coats to add strength and smooth the surfaces. Be mindful that some of the detail in Sean's files is not accurate and will require modding either prior to printing in the models themselves or after the old fashioned way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrinkHouse Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Be mindful that some of the detail in Sean's files is not accurate and will require modding either prior to printing in the models themselves or after the old fashioned way. Can you elaborate or link to any threads/posts with more info on these inaccuracies? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Can you elaborate or link to any threads/posts with more info on these inaccuracies? Thanks! Check out my build thread. I'm elaborating more there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Guys are you using ABS, PET or other materials when printing - I'm currently using PETG as it seems the go to filament for Cosplay in Japan but I seem to get a lot of print failures. Would ABS be a better option - I read you need to have the printer in an enclosure to maintain warmth in the print to prevent heat expansion or is it perfectly fine to have it in say your living room, office, shed and let it just print away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I have found PETG to be very temperamental. It requires a very high hot-end temperature and a very hot bed to avoid warping. I've avoided ABS because of the warping issues and it's also basically a nasty material for your health and for the environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I have found PETG to be very temperamental. It requires a very high hot-end temperature and a very hot bed to avoid warping. I've avoided ABS because of the warping issues and it's also basically a nasty material for your health and for the environment. Sooooooooooo .....................................what are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Sooooooooooo .....................................what are you using? PLA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarEast Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 PLA How does it hold up for trooping? Obviously excessive ambient heat isn't an issue for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeuk Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 How does it hold up for trooping? Obviously excessive ambient heat isn't an issue for you. Time will tell. If my ambient temperature gets above 65C I'm long dead anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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