kroenen77 Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Don´t you think that the PA is a little bit too big and too clean/smooth?The Originals are not so smooth and bulky I would say. But I´m also not a Biker Scout expert...I´m more on from the Vader group.;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kroenen77 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 I have a question about the paints: You use glossy white over grey primer,right? Clearcoat or not?If yes..also over the stickers? What a black do you use behind the snoutgreeblie?Matte,semigloss or gloss? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 I have a question about the paints: You use glossy white over grey primer,right? Clearcoat or not?If yes..also over the stickers? What a black do you use behind the snoutgreeblie?Matte,semigloss or gloss? gloss white over grey is best, as using a white primer seems to have a slight yellowing on the gloss white see this post here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18321&view=findpost&p=166573 no, i didnt use a clearcoat and i used a gloss black behind the snout greeblie hope that helps! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kroenen77 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Thanks man..that helps a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 well, back at it again with build #5 this is also my start to building helmets for commission, i have had more than a few request to build helmets. this is my first commission build and there are several more already in the works waiting to be built. this build will be different from the previous builds i have done. it will have the riveted headband(not glued), a ukwraths audio system added and no 8th vent to be added i received this helmet with the helmet halves, ears and eyes already cut out. still had a little bit of work to do to get it built left and right side jaws to show before and after return edge notice my pencil line does not match the rs line before after the profile lines the two halves still needs some trimming/sanding almost built except the top center support for the helmet want to use the wider oval shape center support as seen on one of the versions of the screen used helmets 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 got a few more needed parts over the past couple days ... and well, got the thing completely built and tweaked and ready for bondo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCwerewolf Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 You're making this look way too easy. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aliaz Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I agree! Good job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Chridan Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Great work on the lid. Gesendet von meinem HTC Desire 10 lifestyle mit Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sibbel29 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 hey bro, can you show some pics how you connected the faceplate and the two visorparts, really struggling on that since I can’t find any reference.. cheers, seb Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 hey bro, can you show some pics how you connected the faceplate and the two visorparts, really struggling on that since I can’t find any reference.. cheers, seb Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk alright, np, ill post some more pics and info. NOTE .. with my 5 kit builds the left and right sides where not the same. the molds are not symmetrical or they are just bad pulls ?? so, you have the 2 visor halves and the faceplate. RS also sent you a faceplate spacer you need to cut out. below in the picture is the faceplate spacer -- marked in grey and i add a small piece of abs in the vertical return edge -- marked in red, this is to prevent cracking make sure the spacer is centered, if it isnt you will have a crooked visor and it wont line up properly in the front. so, this is where it gets tricky as i mentioned above the 2 side of the faceplate are not symmetrical. what i did is cut the tip of the faceplate off around the marked green(see pic below) area so it sits inside the back of the visor the blue marked area is a tapered return edge -- DONT cut or return this edge yet (marked in red) youll notice in my pics the left/right side is cut funky in the visor seat and filled in, this is due to the areas not being made proper, more than likely the right side will fit like a glove(3 of the kits ive built the right side was good) .. all 5 kits i had the same issue there, some more than others. i use CA glue with insta-set to fill the gap from the back side. i included a couple painted pics of the area too the bottom curve of the ear on the faceplate sits on the bottom of the return edge on the visor or close to it ill explain the return edge in the next post! thanks stoutscout -- i used/edited your pics of our chats on your build questions this is the bonded area from the inside .. left and right sides -- multiple angles notice the return edges, these are done after you have the visor faceplate put together and have the helmet built. the bottom edge of the faceplate (ears) is what seats to the bottom edge of the visors return edge and it sits to the back corner of the visor. youll notice in the first pic there, the notch on the faceplate sides are abit big (this was my 1st helmet build) and i was able to fix/fill this with CA glue and insta set .. pics 4 and 5 above 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 return edges... once you have the faceplate and visor glued together without trimming the lower faceplate cheek section. you will want to place it on the helmet and make a new line that is parallel with the helmet angle. in the picture below the yellow line is a rough line of how far past the factory line you might go to get a nice clean angle profile. the red line will be what makes the return edge. thanks again stoutscout -- i used/edited your pics of our chats on your build questions what i do is take a thin straight edge and place it in the gap betweeen the helmet and visor and make a new line. the straight edge will sit on the lower cheeck section. from there i make the return edge and cut the tapered edge as seen in the pics in the previous post. i also, create the return edge before my new line and slowly trim reheat/recut/redo the return edge till i have a nice profile angle i am happy with. again, you may have to cut/heat/bend a few times to get a nice profile. the blue line in the pic below is the area your are trying to get straight. also, youll notice in the picture above the visor is not seated all the way down to the helmet. to adjust this i use a heat gun to tweak the helmet. ill post the picture of where i heat the helmet and where i push/pull from to get the helmet to tweak and allow the visor to close properly ... just go slow with this process and have a fan nearby to cool the helmet down quickly as your holding the helmet in position. be mindful of the ears, vents, return edges as you dont want to warp them with heat. this is also something i do more on the right side of the helmet. the left side doesnt need much tweaking to get the visor to close. also, when tweaking the helmet watch your return edges on the faceplate ... take a look at my pics in the previous post and youll see how small they are and that they are tapered. if your return edges are to big then when you close the helmet the return edges will be pushed out and give you a flair out on the cheeks (like efx helmets) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 top view of visor .. to allow it to open and stay locked. youll need to go past the RS lines they provided. even after cutting past the RS lines you dont want to open the visor to far, it will open further than the lock, just open it till it locks. you dont want to scratch/nick the paint. here is how i cut all my helmets here is how it looks on both sides with the visor opened and locked this is my first helmet ... i opened up to far(past the lock) and chipped the paint. helmet is opened and locked .. notice how far back can visor go to where the chip is? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sibbel29 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 very very helpfull!! thanks bro!! Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 first bondo coat and sanded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCwerewolf Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Giggidty.... Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 well, its been a crazy around with the weather and now the pollen and i have not had the chance to finish this helmet ... fingers crossed this weekend will be decent paint weather.... anyways, some update pics ... 2nd bondo coat and 3rd spot putty coat, prepped for primer. also, atm, the ukwraths mic will not be installed ... the volume of the device doesnt give much of a difference than when speaking normal ... and some ... bbb's 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 good day .. i got the first coat of primer on it, tomorrow sand and prime again. hopefully, ill get the white on this thing this week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 first coat done ... 5-7 days de-gas period for the paint ... so, i will get to do a light sand on it in a couple days and get the final coat on it next week 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 ncwerewolf's kit almost finished ... time to weather this beauty, lol and well, while i was waiting for paint to degas ... heres #7 built 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Great work man. Fantastic job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tietech Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Very awesome. Thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCwerewolf Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 So stoked. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
762s Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 well, here is mister wolf's helmet weathered as requested ... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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