Retrofire Posted January 27, 2018 Posted January 27, 2018 Outstanding! Looking forward to seeing your build progress! 1
762s Posted January 27, 2018 Author Posted January 27, 2018 I haven't had the chance to lay eyes on mine yet, but is it pretty obvious where the trim lines are going to be? I'm anxious to see how the trimming is going to go and what tools (e.g., Dremel, shears/snips, etc.) are going to make the job easiest... Dan i can say on some parts the trim lines are very obvious. on others not so much and on some areas there is a trim line and then there is nothing at all to go by. so, i guess i will cut 1/4" or so and test fit. and ill just use some abs scissors, razor knife and some sandpaper ... they have served me well with my helmet builds
Strider Posted January 28, 2018 Posted January 28, 2018 About the trim lines...I tried to cover that in my Lancer build tutorial. If that doesn't solve the questions just let me know! 2
762s Posted January 30, 2018 Author Posted January 30, 2018 first things first ... a big thanks to mark and constantin, you guys are top notch! well, i got into trimming, sanding and some glueing need some help with some of the trim lines, strider/cfo! the main thing i need help with is the drop boxes ... how do you determine the radius? i cut a slight radius but, it will need more, do i just fit this to my sides? then the holster ... how are you mounting the holsters front edge(smaller piece) to the holster plate, just glue it? i see some have riveted this section, and during cutting i left the excess and folded it back inside to glue and rivet for later. i still have to sand and round the edges on these parts. i tried to memic the pics in striders thread for the knees ... do mine look ok? i still have to sand the edges and round the inside corners. have a look ... if you all see anything i need to trim up some more .. please let me know anyways, on with the pic progress
762s Posted January 31, 2018 Author Posted January 31, 2018 little bit of progress tonight... formed the belt had some issue with hair line cracks showing up so, i glued some abs scraps to each side of the center box and got it to bend properly. oddly enough the last 2 boxes didnt have an issue with cracks showing up, i think its due to them having a square flat area in between the boxes and not the added triangle area like the front has. back piece and tank trimmed up ... top of tank is thin but, it looks like the greeblie will stiffen it up some. might still need to add some abs scrap pieces or brace from back armor to top of tank like in pandatroopers post here... http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=81497e well, i think tomorrow will be a sewing day .... 1
762s Posted February 5, 2018 Author Posted February 5, 2018 some progress ... and some questions. i changed the color of my helmets snout .. i found some dark grey testors paint ... i like it alot better than the primer grey but, i think it could stand to be darker still (compared to screen used) .. what do you all think? i went with the tank not secured to the armor too! alright, screen accurate scouts! can i use white/clear zipties? ... thats what the screen used scout looks like. why are you all using black? i have broke 2 zipties ... any suggestion on this? i was thinking using 2 zipties and keeping them straight so, that the ziptie is not bent around the base. and the td is fubar due to all the repaints and such, the lines are not uniform anymore ... and its heavy! i dont like it and im thinking how to rework it.
NCwerewolf Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 The wire wrap gets heavy, I would imagine. Need to find a ribbed hose that doesnt need to be modified, except maybe paint. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk 1
762s Posted February 5, 2018 Author Posted February 5, 2018 the inner tube of the td is heavy in itself ... there has gotta be a better lighter method. plus, i think the screen used td is actually abit wider "wire" than what we are using. im gonna put some work in on this td research and see what i can come up with. 1
cheesewhoopy Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 the inner tube of the td is heavy in itself ... there has gotta be a better lighter method. plus, i think the screen used td is actually abit wider "wire" than what we are using. im gonna put some work in on this td research and see what i can come up with. I used a light grey Ethernet cable for my wire wrapped TD. I think it's a little different than what others have used, but it didn't need to be painted which was a huge plus in my book and it gives the over all appearance. It's wrapped around some pvc pipe I slightly curved. I've never had an issue with it being too heavy. It always stays in place pretty well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3
cheesewhoopy Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 Also, your build is coming alone great! Love the attention to detail, you're gonna be looking sharp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
762s Posted February 5, 2018 Author Posted February 5, 2018 your td pic looks close to the screen used td too ... and i was thinking about the pvc pipe too because, the hose method is hard to get a slight bend in it. i also found this .. not sure how the spine will bend over the inner pipe though if you look at striders lancer build the td he shows has a similar shape and it looks like there is rougher/cut edge in between the "wire" esp. near the rivet ... like they cut something off 1
3DImpact Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 Looking really nice! I've yet to even start trimming my armor but am hoping to get to it soon. Couple things: (1) Can you expand a bit on how you did the pin striping on the back tank? I've been wondering how I'm going to approach that so it all comes out nice and straight. (2) There is a very minor asymmetry to the top greeblie for the forearm piece (i.e., there are some tiny details on that piece that are not symmetrically placed) - is there a good reference pic for how that was mounted on the production costumes? (3) I like the looks of your tank mounting setup - very crisp and tidy. I wonder, though, about the apparent 'permanent' nature of the riveted attach points at either end. Stretched elastic tends to break down and lose its 'tightness' after a while and you might find that your tank gets unacceptably loose and floppy over time. Will it be easy to remove the attachment points and reinstall with new elastic? Very nice work! Hoping to catch up to you soon... Dan 1
sskunky Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 Looking like a nice build. I'll keep an eye on this. 1
Chopper Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 (2) There is a very minor asymmetry to the top greeblie for the forearm piece (i.e., there are some tiny details on that piece that are not symmetrically placed) - is there a good reference pic for how that was mounted on the production costumes? (3) I like the looks of your tank mounting setup - very crisp and tidy. I wonder, though, about the apparent 'permanent' nature of the riveted attach points at either end. Stretched elastic tends to break down and lose its 'tightness' after a while and you might find that your tank gets unacceptably loose and floppy over time. Will it be easy to remove the attachment points and reinstall with new elastic? Very nice work! Hoping to catch up to you soon... Dan If I can offer some insight from my build -- Since there's no greeblie on the forearms, I'm guessing you mean the bicep greeblie Here's a photo from a set of screen used armor: While I used the same 1/2" elastic to visually simulate the attachment method used on screen, a number of us further secured the back tank using velcro attached to the inside of the tank. My armor is at home, so I can't take a photo, but here's an example that another trooper displayed elsewhere on BSN.
3DImpact Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 Yes, bicep! Excellent - thanks for that photo ref! Dan
cheesewhoopy Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 While I used the same 1/2" elastic to visually simulate the attachment method used on screen, a number of us further secured the back tank using velcro attached to the inside of the tank. My armor is at home, so I can't take a photo, but here's an example that another trooper displayed elsewhere on BSN. That's mine! lol I thought that photo looked familiar. But yeah that's how I did mine and it's worked really well. The nice thing is I can take the tank off to fit everything in my bin nicely. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chopper Posted February 5, 2018 Posted February 5, 2018 Hah, sorry Aaron. I couldn't remember who it was from on BSN. The only difference between your set up and mine is that I also velcroed the top and bottom elastic tank straps to the center as well. Definitely secure for trooping. That sucker isn't going anywhere!
762s Posted February 6, 2018 Author Posted February 6, 2018 Looking really nice! I've yet to even start trimming my armor but am hoping to get to it soon. Couple things: (1) Can you expand a bit on how you did the pin striping on the back tank? I've been wondering how I'm going to approach that so it all comes out nice and straight. (2) There is a very minor asymmetry to the top greeblie for the forearm piece (i.e., there are some tiny details on that piece that are not symmetrically placed) - is there a good reference pic for how that was mounted on the production costumes? (3) I like the looks of your tank mounting setup - very crisp and tidy. I wonder, though, about the apparent 'permanent' nature of the riveted attach points at either end. Stretched elastic tends to break down and lose its 'tightness' after a while and you might find that your tank gets unacceptably loose and floppy over time. Will it be easy to remove the attachment points and reinstall with new elastic? Very nice work! Hoping to catch up to you soon... Dan thanks and sure i will help where i can. pinstripping ... run(drive) over to an auto parts store and get yourself some 1/8" and 1/4" pin stripping .. black also, get some medium or thin ca glue from a hobby store (i use medium) piece of paper, pen or pencil, exacto knife, some painters tape with low adhesion(yellow frog tape) and some wax paper. follow my pic below for dimensions and make some small pencil marks on your tank to line up the stripping. the stripping wants to lay straight so, dont worry to much about it creating a wavy line. i use the ca glue to secure the ends of the pin stripping ... just drop a tiny bit on the end of the stripping and quickly rub it off. the tiny angel piece of 1/8" stripping on top of the main line in the center is 1 1/4" on the bottom and 1" on the top click picture for full size image RANK: tape a piece of paper to a work area that you can cut on and mark out the dimension of the rank bar your using .. see pics below on how to make your own rank decal mark the paper and make a template tape a piece of wax paper (shiny/slick side up) over your template and cut some strips of stripping and stick them onto the wax paper retrace the 1 1/4" width line and cut the template out remove the wax paper exposing the sticky side of the pin stripping place this newly created decal on the armor and rub the top corner of the stripping as you peel the tape off the decal at an angel as for the elbow greeblie .. remember the 2 dots are facing forward on our arm so, there is a left and right side. check out chef's build picture and thread --- refrence from chef's @ https://www.chefscre...r-scout-armour/ and well, as far as the elastic, i wanted to get the screen accurate look and i figure if it does end up failing over time, drilling a pop rivet out isnt hard do as im using aluminum rivets. and like chopper pointed with cheesewhoopy's pic there is a way to make it secure to the back armor. also check out pandatroopers method here ... http://forum.bikersc...indpost&p=81497 you can still add the elastic on the top and bottom to create the screen accurate look and secure the tank like many others have done. 1
3DImpact Posted February 6, 2018 Posted February 6, 2018 Wonderful extra info/details - very helpful, thanks! Dan 1
762s Posted February 8, 2018 Author Posted February 8, 2018 i tried the shoulder bridge zip tie method that strider mentioned in the lancer build thread ... broke a couple zip ties so, i decided to mount 2 zipties to the shoulder strap and i used a clear white zip tie like what we see in the screen used scout so, my zip tie method is like this... and i noticed my tank pulls away from the armor like in the screen used scout ... looks like this is due to back armor flexing/conforming to the body at the bottom edge, lifting the tank up and away from the back armor
762s Posted February 8, 2018 Author Posted February 8, 2018 and first test fit ... some problems with cummerbund ... will have to add velcro to flak vest to keep it from falling down 1
3DImpact Posted February 8, 2018 Posted February 8, 2018 Wow - looking really nice! You're pretty much there I'd say - congrats! :-) Are you going to weather this build? Dan 1
Strider Posted February 8, 2018 Posted February 8, 2018 Very cool! It's the first time I see my upgraded gear suited up I may be biased but I think it looks terrific! 2 things stand out for me atm though: The cod piece has a bit of a camel toe and the shaft of the boots looks a bit too wide. The rest is probably due to the test fit. But to be clear - this build is top notch! Cheers 2
sskunky Posted February 8, 2018 Posted February 8, 2018 It does indeed look great. ðŸ‘🻠I’ll be back on the case soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
Retrofire Posted February 8, 2018 Posted February 8, 2018 Ohhhh Seven’s in Armor! How’s it feel mate? Looking really nice for the first fit up! 1
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