BikerScout007's "Strider" build

[BikerScout007]

10 hours ago, kacrut said:

so, that's for Holster.. is the same size for the knee armor and back armor(tank)?.. Ooh and what size of the rivet washer?.. sorry for asking alot, i need to gathered the info and buy the correct size first time. Thank you.

Yup.  Use the same rivets everywhere rivets are required!

[mickeymark34]

On 11/13/2019 at 9:40 PM, kacrut said:

so, that's for Holster.. is the same size for the knee armor and back armor(tank)?.. Ooh and what size of the rivet washer?.. sorry for asking alot, i need to gathered the info and buy the correct size first time. Thank you.

 

On 11/13/2019 at 8:28 AM, BikerScout007 said:

Folks always ask what rivets I use, well here they are:

 

I just bought a box of rivets. They are the same size but have a white head to them.

[BikerScout007]

2 minutes ago, mickeymark34 said:

 

I just bought a box of rivets. They are the same size but have a white head to them.

They wouldn't work for Lancer.  

[mickeymark34]

4 hours ago, BikerScout007 said:

They wouldn't work for Lancer.  

I was thinking about that on the way home from Lowe’s. That’s all they had though. I’ll check Amazon.

[Dart]

7 hours ago, mickeymark34 said:

I was thinking about that on the way home from Lowe’s. That’s all they had though. I’ll check Amazon.

You could always try sanding down the paint before riveting them on the kit?

[mickeymark34]

5 hours ago, Dart said:

You could always try sanding down the paint before riveting them on the kit?

That’s a great idea. I’ll try that first.

[BikerScout007]

Started on my Strider Thermal detonator.

I bought a 1 3/8" braided pipe cut to 12 inches.  Then I took a regular old cheap extension cord, split it in half and used that as the cable to wrap the TD.  I drilled a hole for the entrance point and the exit point to run the wires through and keep the coils tight, but still able to be shifted if need be.  

Not the same cord that Shaun uses, but fine for my purposes. 

 

[BikerScout007]

Hit it with some medium gray paint


Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

[BikerScout007]

More work on the TD

Drilled some hole for the zip tie:

Then ziptied the tube to the housing:

Got these clips from https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661-tempered-belt-clip.html

I stretched them out so they were easier to get over the belt by myself.

 

Got long rivets to rivet the clip to the tube.  Had to use long because the wire wrap is a thicker amount of material to get through.  Also added a washer to the rivet on the portion inside the tube.

[BikerScout007]

And there you have it folks. One completed, wire-wrapped thermal detonator.

Note to those concerned: when worn you can't see how low the cut is in the back of the clip. Which is why we have recommended them for years.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

[Harbinger]

Mickey, do you remember what thickness of pinstriping you used for your tank? I’m going to go with the 4-bar myself.

[BikerScout007]

1 hour ago, Harbinger said:

Mickey, do you remember what thickness of pinstriping you used for your tank? I’m going to go with the 4-bar myself.

I cut those myself from a sheet of black vinyl.  The thin stripes are 1/8 inch and the 4 thick stripes are 1/4!

[CatfoodRob]

The four bar version is a cut down rear helmet decal , the other combinations use car pinstripe , about 1/8 

[MrsPoopie]

That’s a great idea. I’ll try that first.

Or hit it with a silver paint pen!

[BikerScout007]

2 hours ago, MrsPoopie said:

On 11/20/2019 at 11:02 AM, mickeymark34 said:

That’s a great idea. I’ll try that first.

Or hit it with a silver paint pen!

I'm all about the silver sharpie!

[BikerScout007]

9 hours ago, CatfoodRob said:

The four bar version is a cut down rear helmet decal , the other combinations use car pinstripe , about 1/8 

Excellent!  Great to know

[Harbinger]

On 7/12/2017 at 8:44 PM, BikerScout007 said:

And I forgot to post the belt! I didn't have enough nylon webbing to go all the way around the belt so I just used segments. But the cotton webbing I ran all the way through as a continuous piece, with the ends sewn to the nylon. The webbing I used was 48 inches.

 

Hey Mickey, another newb question - I know it doesn't matter for approval, but ideally the nylon rubbing runs the entire length behind the belt? Do people glue it down so it doesn't move in that case?

 

Also, CRL says nylon or poly are acceptable but do we know what the films used?

[BikerScout007]

39 minutes ago, Harbinger said:

Hey Mickey, another newb question - I know it doesn't matter for approval, but ideally the nylon rubbing runs the entire length behind the belt? Do people glue it down so it doesn't move in that case?

 

Also, CRL says nylon or poly are acceptable but do we know what the films used?

Newb questions is why we are all here!  

I've seen them done with the belt running all the way through.  Not exactly sure of the build method though.  Glue would probably work though you'd find few places to glue it to.  But like you said it doesnt matter for approval.  We never judge the costumes on what happens behind the scenes, only what can be seen from the outside.  And that goes for Level 2 as well.

As for whether it was nylon or polypro, we've got this pic to go on:

That looks like polypro to me, but nylon was put into the CRL way before I came along.  We give the option for either.

 

[Harbinger]

Well poly is what's in stock locally so that works for me!

[evnltr]

Mickey, I like how you did your TD here. I plan to update my Lancer and I believe that is the first place I will start.  For wrapping the wire around, did you thread through the inside hole of the tube first and wrap towards the edge? I can't tell which is the entrance and exit holes on the tube in the picture. Also any recommendations on spray paint brand to get the gray as close as we can to what was on screen? I've been able to pick up most or the materials Strider recommended except paint. (I plan to make my own clips as first attempt as I want the bars thin).  Thanks for this great thread! 

[Aradun]

Mickey, I like how you did your TD here. I plan to update my Lancer and I believe that is the first place I will start.  For wrapping the wire around, did you thread through the inside hole of the tube first and wrap towards the edge? I can't tell which is the entrance and exit holes on the tube in the picture. Also any recommendations on spray paint brand to get the gray as close as we can to what was on screen? I've been able to pick up most or the materials Strider recommended except paint. (I plan to make my own clips as first attempt as I want the bars thin).  Thanks for this great thread! 

The wire wrapped TD is pretty easy to do and it does look nice. I made one earlier this year, but as some other scouts noted during my own build this type of TD has some serious weight to it. You wouldn’t think so but it does. I found it roughly twice as heavy as my RS TD. The weight of it may pull your belt down in the back. I added a hook and loop tab onto the back of my CB which gets sandwiched between the hook and loop of the belt in the back. That helps keep the belt from drooping. I personally don’t like the feel of the added weight on the small of my back, and as it wasn’t required for Lancer I went back to my original RS TD. Of course your mileage may vary. It is a fun and fairly easy build.

[BikerScout007]

13 hours ago, evnltr said:

Mickey, I like how you did your TD here. I plan to update my Lancer and I believe that is the first place I will start.  For wrapping the wire around, did you thread through the inside hole of the tube first and wrap towards the edge? I can't tell which is the entrance and exit holes on the tube in the picture. Also any recommendations on spray paint brand to get the gray as close as we can to what was on screen? I've been able to pick up most or the materials Strider recommended except paint. (I plan to make my own clips as first attempt as I want the bars thin).  Thanks for this great thread! 

I started from the outside and then worked my way to the inside, then threaded the rest of the wire through the hole and pulled it out the end so it would be nice and snug.  There may be a better way but that worked for me, and I also did not have to glue it down.  The pilot holes kept it locked in place.

As for paint, I used a Rustoleum gray that matched my decals, because that's what I had lying around.  The actual wire looks a little more gray-beige, and given it was the early 80s and EVERYTHING technology related back then was gray-beige, you may want to try a lighter shade than the color of your decals.  

[evnltr]

Thank you both for the quick feedback. That info is so helpful!  I do want to find that perfect gray beige look too, but I'll get what gray works best and is available. I do have an extra TD housing and TD end caps from an older MC armor set. I will use that as my test set for the coil. I'll have to experiment with the weight and keeping it snug. They did it on screen right?   I used hair pins inside the housing back in the day and they worked like a champ. I'll see if the same concept can work here along with the proper looking clips .

I know there is multiple ways to do the end caps. Any suggestions for securing those on the ends when dealing with the coiled TD? 

Oh, AradunFF, your Lancer pics look great! Well done!!

 

 

[Aradun]

I know there is multiple ways to do the end caps. Any suggestions for securing those on the ends when dealing with the coiled TD? 

Oh, AradunFF, your Lancer pics look great! Well done!!

 

Contact Cement like Gorilla CA glue should do the trick. The edge of the hose is thick enough to provide a secure gluing surface provided you make a smooth cut when trimming it’s length.

I opted for CA glue rather than E-6000, because E-6000 has a little give to it, and I didn’t want them popping off in a troop or if the TD fell off or was dropped and hit the ground.

I also made my pilot holes for the wrapped cord slightly smaller so that it took some effort to feed the wire through. There’s no chance that wire is slipping out. Trust me.

And thanks for the shout out!

[evnltr]

That's a good point on edge. It will be thicker to glue down. I'll try CA glue. Thanks for that tip. On my current set I actually took a thick fishing line through the tube and glued it with small bit of scrap ABS to the inside of each cap. That way if I bumped a cap off, it would dangle and prevent it from falling. Just as a back up safety "leash" if you will. I'll probably do that again. I plan to start working on the coil wrapped TD this weekend. It looks fun. I'll post up if I have any issues/success over the course the build.