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Posted

There are few different builders of the E22 blaster and you may have to make mods to these builds to ensure it is correct. So here is a few pointers.

 

Screws used should be M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolt

 

Stunt E22

 

IMG_0829.jpg

 

A. 4 Panel rear butt

 

Rear Allen screw positions

 

IMG_1032.jpgimgurl

 

Cheek adjuster (Does not need to work)

 

C. Adjustable cheek pad (does not need to move)

 

D. Rear but extension

 

E. Rear rail scope block which is inside the rear sight

 

F. Base body is S&T Airsoft Sterling

 

IMG_1006.jpgupload img

 

G. M38 1943 scope ( please be aware some makes are using the M38 1942 scope this is incorrect)

 

IMG_1193.jpgimage host

 

H. Front scope rail block

 

I. Front trigger housing

 

J. M300a mini scout touch

 

K. Rear fin barrel housing

 

L. Double barrels

 

M. Front fin barrel housing

 

N. 1' Talon swivel with lug. (You will need 2 swivels and 3 lugs)

 

52_D3_C102-_FF9_A-4472-8321-_E069_F5_E7_BD3_D.jpg

 

The sling is 1' webbing strap with a silver metal 3 bar fixed buckle

 

IMG_0965.jpg

 

Sliver buckles can be found here

 

http://www.gsproducts.co.uk/25mm-stainless-steel-3-bar-slide-webbing-buckle/

 

mag area

 

IMG_1090.jpg

 

The Hero version was a working S&T airsoft gun with mods. We can't use that but can get close by using the above and adding lights as below with working M300a torch.

 

359_C693_A-376_E-4075-_ABFF-_D9_AA32140026_1.jpg

 

A25_B5_C26-9_B77-47_F5-_B93_B-4_BDAD3_F6728_A_1.jpg

 

D220_FF7_C-3_D53-4_D3_D-8_ADF-_B3_EA068647_BA_1.jpg

 

My Hero Version

 

985_AE7_DF-9_D97-46_AB-8_FC1-_B7_C74886_ABD4.jpgpicture hosting

 

9_A7_D3_EE8-3093-438_D-88_DA-8_B03_BCD24_B21.jpg

 

Full_Size_Render.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
56025980e69e59fa0e6a1c99fda61829.jpg

From what I can see there is nothing there to light.

 

Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk.

Which probably means this was one from the film, and the other ones could have been pre-production blasters from early photoshoots. Or the one that was on display last year was a stunt blaster instead of a hero.

  • Like 2
Posted

Tons of great information in this thread. I'm waiting on mine to be shipped and know that I'm going to have to rework a bunch of it for accuracy... ugh. That means even more sanding!

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, scratch that. The blaster I ordered on etsy was a total dud. DO NOT buy from Breakingthemold3d. The parts were so poorly printed I was shocked they even sent them. Misaligned layers. Not an ounce of sanding before paint & weathering (which was laughable), plus the delays were crazy. 9 weeks of lies about when it would be shipped and then it was hands down the worst 3d print I've ever seen. They didn't even bother wrapping it in bubble wrap, so of course it arrived broken too.

  • Sad 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I got one that is 3D printed and it’s nice, but darn it, 3D printing is fragile.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

This is fantastic. I finally got a set of LED's set up after all this time.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Anyone have better photo showing how the Hengstler counter was attached?

I know various methods for the E-11 but would like to see the R1 E-22 attachment method. 

Posted
Anyone have better photo showing how the Hengstler counter was attached?

I know various methods for the E-11 but would like to see the R1 E-22 attachment method. 


You will find most of us have used the E11b attachment for the E22 with the bracket attached to the scope rail.

This E11b has the bracket and centre bracket which we know they started adding because the scope rails were bending.

64c4a3963334b03a09279208b637daf7.jpg

However at CE and even on the hero version we can’t see the bracket on the rail.

You can see below red arrow the rail with no bracket , the blue arrow I have pointed out that on the opposite side there could be some sort of bracket holding the Hengstler

699f7b5003a6c236b1c28b7eb12b88e8.jpg

Even in the hero version below we can’t see the bracket on the rail

6eeb09fddcef079e05c677ebefa3af97.jpg

A possibly is that they attached it to the lug legs on the scope

912df1a5441481b157ef991f70ccf848.jpg

It is an area that as far as I am aware we have not got any good photo evidence for the Hengstler attachment




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello, How can I purchase a fully finished E-22, Lights and all. I've been having the same problem only finding crap E-22's.....Does anyone out there sell it? Even if I have to install led lights etc...Best Regards, WEBS 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Great info. I have a poorly made 3D printed version. I would love to have a better quality one. Does anyone make a prebuilt and painted version? 

  • 2 years later...
Posted
16 hours ago, Sithping said:

Are the images in the first post showing for anyone? 

13 of them.

Posted

Can see them now... 👍

Regarding the M4 bolt/screws, are they definitely all the same size except the 2 at the power cylinders? 

Looks like a couple of smaller ones at the cover plates at the rear of the double barrels? 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I'm currently building the E22 and can't find the color code for the paint anywhere.

What color is used for the paintwork?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/1/2025 at 4:34 AM, Martin said:

I'm currently building the E22 and can't find the color code for the paint anywhere.

What color is used for the paintwork?

There doesn't seem to be a color standard. Its a satin-ish black. THe finish is then beat up. Various shades of mettalic metal/silver to simulate paint wear to the metal undereath. The bolt area is then washed with black or nuhl oil wash from games workshop. Weather seems to be optional. I'm going for desert/beach dirt so I then washed mine with browns to get dirt into the nooks and crannies. 

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