TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 There are few different builders of the E22 blaster and you may have to make mods to these builds to ensure it is correct. So here is a few pointers. Screws used should be M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolt Stunt E22 A. 4 Panel rear butt Rear Allen screw positions imgurl Cheek adjuster (Does not need to work) C. Adjustable cheek pad (does not need to move) D. Rear but extension E. Rear rail scope block which is inside the rear sight F. Base body is S&T Airsoft Sterling upload img G. M38 1943 scope ( please be aware some makes are using the M38 1942 scope this is incorrect) image host H. Front scope rail block I. Front trigger housing J. M300a mini scout touch K. Rear fin barrel housing L. Double barrels M. Front fin barrel housing N. 1' Talon swivel with lug. (You will need 2 swivels and 3 lugs) The sling is 1' webbing strap with a silver metal 3 bar fixed buckle Sliver buckles can be found here http://www.gsproducts.co.uk/25mm-stainless-steel-3-bar-slide-webbing-buckle/ mag area The Hero version was a working S&T airsoft gun with mods. We can't use that but can get close by using the above and adding lights as below with working M300a torch. My Hero Version picture hosting 1
the dirty trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 Where are these lights coming out from? Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk.
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Author Posted March 14, 2017 Underneath the torch in the rear barrel housing
the dirty trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 From what I can see there is nothing there to light. Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk.
PropReplicator2 Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 From what I can see there is nothing there to light. Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk. Which probably means this was one from the film, and the other ones could have been pre-production blasters from early photoshoots. Or the one that was on display last year was a stunt blaster instead of a hero. 2
the dirty trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 After looking at my blaster I've found where the lights are coming from. Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk. 1
the dirty trooper Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 I think I've sorted the front LED's. Sent from the dark side of Tap Talk.
dminor Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 Tons of great information in this thread. I'm waiting on mine to be shipped and know that I'm going to have to rework a bunch of it for accuracy... ugh. That means even more sanding! 2
dminor Posted April 13, 2017 Posted April 13, 2017 Well, scratch that. The blaster I ordered on etsy was a total dud. DO NOT buy from Breakingthemold3d. The parts were so poorly printed I was shocked they even sent them. Misaligned layers. Not an ounce of sanding before paint & weathering (which was laughable), plus the delays were crazy. 9 weeks of lies about when it would be shipped and then it was hands down the worst 3d print I've ever seen. They didn't even bother wrapping it in bubble wrap, so of course it arrived broken too. 1
karmajay Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 EDIT: I saw you posted the same in another thread.
glennmca Posted October 30, 2017 Posted October 30, 2017 I got one that is 3D printed and it’s nice, but darn it, 3D printing is fragile.
TK3100 Posted May 28, 2018 Posted May 28, 2018 This is fantastic. I finally got a set of LED's set up after all this time.
haringjr Posted August 15, 2019 Posted August 15, 2019 Anyone have better photo showing how the Hengstler counter was attached? I know various methods for the E-11 but would like to see the R1 E-22 attachment method.
TK8271 Rogue Trooper Posted August 16, 2019 Author Posted August 16, 2019 Anyone have better photo showing how the Hengstler counter was attached? I know various methods for the E-11 but would like to see the R1 E-22 attachment method. You will find most of us have used the E11b attachment for the E22 with the bracket attached to the scope rail.This E11b has the bracket and centre bracket which we know they started adding because the scope rails were bending.However at CE and even on the hero version we can’t see the bracket on the rail.You can see below red arrow the rail with no bracket , the blue arrow I have pointed out that on the opposite side there could be some sort of bracket holding the Hengstler Even in the hero version below we can’t see the bracket on the rail A possibly is that they attached it to the lug legs on the scope It is an area that as far as I am aware we have not got any good photo evidence for the Hengstler attachment Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 1
WEBS Posted January 30, 2021 Posted January 30, 2021 Hello, How can I purchase a fully finished E-22, Lights and all. I've been having the same problem only finding crap E-22's.....Does anyone out there sell it? Even if I have to install led lights etc...Best Regards, WEBS 1
EmpiresBurn Posted July 7, 2022 Posted July 7, 2022 Great info. I have a poorly made 3D printed version. I would love to have a better quality one. Does anyone make a prebuilt and painted version?
Sithping Posted October 23, 2024 Posted October 23, 2024 Are the images in the first post showing for anyone?
Wompet Posted October 23, 2024 Posted October 23, 2024 16 hours ago, Sithping said: Are the images in the first post showing for anyone? 13 of them.
Sithping Posted October 24, 2024 Posted October 24, 2024 Can see them now... 👍 Regarding the M4 bolt/screws, are they definitely all the same size except the 2 at the power cylinders? Looks like a couple of smaller ones at the cover plates at the rear of the double barrels?
Martin Posted January 1 Posted January 1 I'm currently building the E22 and can't find the color code for the paint anywhere. What color is used for the paintwork?
LocoOttomobile Posted Sunday at 12:54 AM Posted Sunday at 12:54 AM On 1/1/2025 at 4:34 AM, Martin said: I'm currently building the E22 and can't find the color code for the paint anywhere. What color is used for the paintwork? There doesn't seem to be a color standard. Its a satin-ish black. THe finish is then beat up. Various shades of mettalic metal/silver to simulate paint wear to the metal undereath. The bolt area is then washed with black or nuhl oil wash from games workshop. Weather seems to be optional. I'm going for desert/beach dirt so I then washed mine with browns to get dirt into the nooks and crannies.
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