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Armor Or Leather?


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Ok, look at this image...

 

boots.jpg

 

Looks like we need an ankle lenght boot with 2 peices of shin armor and a boot spat fo the toes.

 

Or do you think its a leather boot like the regular scouts?

 

What ya think???

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I also think it is armor.

Leather would be better though as the way the armor pieces are aligned you could get in trouble while doing certain moves. However you wouldn't have stopped camouflage the base boot if attachments and base boot were both softparts but actually of different material - the hard shell pieces being easier to prepare to carry paint coating properly while leather might be a bit of a hassle.

 

It is quite difficult to tell if the shin armor is one tube or two halves connected somewhere. The screenshot material doesn't reveil much except for the fact that these are not only front shin armors.

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I don't think Jango shin armor will work, it only covers the front. It resembles Padme's shin armor, on her battle costume. I've seen them made from sintra. Making the area that has the strap attachment wouldn't be that difficult. Just a second piece that could be attached somehow (have to trouble shoot a bit) I'm not sure if sintra would be able to contour the kind of detail need for the toe plate. I'll ask one of the guys in my garrison who is the king of sintra.

-PF

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Guest torso_boy

The Galactic Marines have the same exact boot set up, and since I'm doing a GM right now, I'll elaborate on my set up. In fact, the GMs and BARCS are exactly the same from the knees down as far as knees, shins, and boots go. The only difference is that the BARCs are camoed to match the rest of their armor.

 

The boot I chose is actually a hiking ankle shoe. No laces, and best of all, NO surface detail. It was just flat black suede. The whole boot was black, but no matter, it would soon be covered in white vinyl and have the sole painted tan.

 

I sort of mutilated the common scout trooper boot tutorial to make my GM boots. I made a pattern that would wrap around the boot and form to its curves. I glued it down using Shoe Goo from Wal-mart, and then cut it to match the sole ridge. I made it so it velcros up the front.

 

For the toe armor, I took thick, white craft foam, heated it up, and pulled it over the toe. I then cut it to shape, and glued it at several key points, sealing it at the toe. Then I did the same thing, but with vinyl, gluing the white vinyl to the foam.

 

Over this whole thing will go the shin armor, which clamshells front and back, primarily held together via the normal TK methods (for trooping), but stylistically held together with those two big straps.

 

DSCF0334.jpg

 

Please note that since the actual Jango Fett boot (from which the GM/BARC boots were modeled from) are out of production, as are all boots and shoes with the same sole. Instead of searching for months and months on eBay, I just found a nice boot with a very noticeable, very aggressive tread. The tread should be fairly simple, and it should have a reasonably high arch. The boots I have are by a company called Quest, but I believe that they too are out of production.

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Guest torso_boy

I can't remember the model name, but they are by a company called "Quest". I got them at a local sporting goods store called "Dick's Sporting Goods" and they were on the clearance rack, which told me they are our of production and just selling off stock.

 

Here's what they looked like before I did my thang.

DSCF0267.jpg

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I got those same shoes. They are the Earth shoe from Walmart!

 

What did you use to change the sole color?

 

Army Scout

 

I can't remember the model name, but they are by a company called "Quest". I got them at a local sporting goods store called "Dick's Sporting Goods" and they were on the clearance rack, which told me they are our of production and just selling off stock.

 

Here's what they looked like before I did my thang.

DSCF0267.jpg

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Under the armor the boot would probably leather. Maybe a desert combat boot would work?

It would (judging by the pic) have to be a non-suede boot.

 

 

I agree: A hard leather boot... a work boot or combat boot. I'll check with my nephew in Iraq. Maybe he can forward a picture of the boots he's wearing over there.

 

I think it looks like two pieces of armor, non-connected to each other. The overlap would provide protection, while allowing maximum movement.

 

I'll look into dyes and bleaching to change the color of the leather. The tanning process might be a problem, or see if you can get a dark cream/beige. Again... my nephew in the desert should give us a clue.

 

-fk

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Guest torso_boy

Keep in mind, whatever boot you choose to use, you're going to have to put a ton of work into getting it to look right. The body of the boot (not including the toe armor) is completely blank of any surface detail, so you're probably going to have to cover it in vinyl anyways.

 

I should be getting my GM armor soon, so once I figure out the shin armor, I'll be sure to post my progress here (since the GM and BARC boots are identical in design). But also keep in mind that what I've done is just a start - I may be redoing the whole thing, and I may even choose a new boot once I find out what works and what doesnt.

 

A combat boot would be a decent start because it hugs the ankle and isn't very bulky. It would still need to be covered in vinyl or some other white material, but you'll want something with a thin profile so you don't look like you have fat ankles. :P However, the sole design also needs to be kept in mind if you are shooting for accuracy. A thicker sole with a beefy tread is desired, and I know that a lot of combat boots have fairly thin soles. Check out the Kenneth Cole Jango Fett boots to see the tread design (even though they are out of production).

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Guest torso_boy

I found this just now:

 

http://www.wellco.com/html/ghwctv.html

 

This boot features a fairly thick sole, and it looks like you could dremel out the arch area to sort of match the Kenneth Cole arch if you really wanted to. Plus, it has a very slim profile at the ankles (plus no padded collar), which is very important: The boot needs to be able to fit under the ankle end of the shin armor and not look "fat". My current boots might have that problem, so I've been considering picking up these boots to try out. All you would really have to do is cover the boot in white vinyl up to the top, and then cover the toe in the necessary toe armor, then paint the soles.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest dfett
I agree: A hard leather boot... a work boot or combat boot. I'll check with my nephew in Iraq. Maybe he can forward a picture of the boots he's wearing over there.

 

I think it looks like two pieces of armor, non-connected to each other. The overlap would provide protection, while allowing maximum movement.

 

I'll look into dyes and bleaching to change the color of the leather. The tanning process might be a problem, or see if you can get a dark cream/beige. Again... my nephew in the desert should give us a clue.

 

-fk

 

i would post some pics that i have from my desert boots that i was issued for the desert but for some reason my file is to big to put on here. i also have a few pairs of the jungle boots. if some one is interested i can email them the pics and maybe they can figure out how to post the picture to the forums.

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Have you guys thought about getting some ski or rollerblade boots that are close in shapt then using clay and bondo to build it up and make something that can be vacuformed as a shell over a simple boot?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest tk465

The problem with hard plastic vacuformed over the boot is it's too stiff and doesn't allow you to bend your foot...not to mention when the tip comes off you start to click on the ground when you take a step....I armored the front toe of my boot/shoe and ended up having to trim them back to keep them from clicking. A formed piece of vinyl or leather would be the best bet for the instep and toe armor. As for the shins..yeah that is problematic since they hug the ankle up high...you almost need to make a boot spat as was suggested in an earlier post to go up high enuogh to clear the the bend in your ankle as you walk or crouch. The armor needs to fit tighter than TK shins in my opinion so that's why they are up higher on the ankle. On my next set of shins I plan on closing up the tube and setting them a bit higher on the calf for more comfort.

 

"Tigger"

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  • 2 months later...

The Barc boots almost looke similar to motorcross boots

 

http://www.motoworldracing.com/thor-07-wom...drant-boot.html

 

http://www.motoworldracing.com/thor-07-quadrant-boot.html

 

only problem is they won't flex like vinyl

and the soles

 

I was also considering using snowtrooper mucklucks since the boots are sorta similar

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  • 4 weeks later...

Gsht and I will be doing some experiments on this boot idea ourselves as soon as we finish up the line of scout boots we got on our project table. We get quicker with every pass and are excited about trying our hand on something new. I think the toe flap and shin spats are the right way to go. I think the baseboots are pretty simular to the scout boots with just a different toe flap as opposed to a "dog bone" and shin spats clam shelled over the base boot. The painting is where the real fun begins.

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Well the boot base is very different from that of the scout boots.

Square toed and the arches between rear being the main characteristics.

 

What I will do is canibalizing a mukluk's upper part as the material is the same and a pair of boots I've bought that are quite near to the apearal of the original keneth cole pitbul crew boots.

Though I have to try and sand the rubber of the sole being cast with texture :/. I hope it is possible to that without destroying the polyurethane.

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The boot has armor over the front and top of the boot. We just got the pictire of the BARC Trooper and we scanned it at high res and you can see the boots and other stuff really good now. There is armor over the top of the foot.
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