TK-1389 Shore Trooper Helmet Tutorial

[trooper1389]

Hello everyone my name is Tk1389 AKA Marcelo lol. I have always like to share my little bit of knowledge in order to help others in building their helmets. In this tutorial with the help of Tim L. who actually did us the favor of providing us with the pictures from start to finish and shared his expertise in painting and weathering, I’m able to provide you with visual and written instructions for the Scrif AKA Shore stormtrooper character from Rogue One.

 

Like in the past, this is just our opinion on how we have worked on resin helmet kits, please don’t hesitate to provide us with input as I will update the tutorial with information from anyone here that makes suggestions on how to help others in need of assistance.

 

To start YES I committed some major plagiarism on myself from a tutorial I did for CT.net back in 2005 lol. And yes I updated it with this Scarif / Shore helmet kit.

 

These helmet kits, along with all other kits for this Scarif Trooper are being made of some king of resin. My kits are made from a product called TC 808 from BJB enterprises it’s a two part polyurethane resin that takes paints very well. Regardless the type of resin, fiberglass etc… being used the steps should remain the same for all types of kits.

 

And this is one of the most important parts I’m sure you all know but I do have to say it here. Take your time don’t rush mark your cuts, mark any imperfections that may need some extra TLC (molding lines, bumps and dents if any, go over the entire helmet and greebelies to make sure you have all pieces on hand and nothing is missing. Make sure you know what parts need special attention, it’s like a miniature model take one piece at a time and give it all your attention until you made it to the last piece.

 

 

 

 

Tools needed.

 

Tools needed. Standard tools for building a model if you don't have the list, here is what I use.

1.

DREMEL or something like it . (https://www.dremel.c...ry/27343/rotary ), anyone of these will work but try and get one with multiple speeds as it will make your armor building easier.

2. Get Dremel 225-01 Flex Shaft Attachment (https://www.dremel.c...haft-attachment ) If the link does not work just Google the name. This is the one I use. I feel this is one of the most important attachments you will need. (at least in my book lol GARAGE). This tool will allow you to cut, sand, trim and prepare your helmet for the hands on portion of the tutorial.

3. Bits and other attachments for cutting, sanding and grinding that you may need to prepare your kit.

• Cuts, I use several cutting attachments, for major large cuts, I sue the #561 multi purpose cutting bit found here (https://www.dremel.c...?blogsearch=561 with some videos of how it works. This will cut fast and accurate, just take your time as it will pull and or take off on you I suggest to test it out first on scrap pieces of ABS or drywall. You can also use cutting wheels like (https://www.dremel.c...=cutting+blades ) your preference, but I normally use the cutting bit, have gotten attached to this, it’s made my work easier lol. FYI cut about 1/8 inch away from your marked line, the marked line is where you have to end up and this tool is NOT the one to make sure you have your finished cut see step B for this.
  
• For sanding the areas after cutting, I use the #430 ¼ inch sanding drum (https://www.dremel.c...-4-sanding-drum ) I use this one for small areas for sanding like around the eyes and tight corners. And the #407 ½ inch sanding drum (https://www.dremel.c...-2-sanding-drum ), depending on the area, size and room allowed, but this is the one I use to sand / grind down larger openings to get a nice finish on the larger areas like the neck opening etc…. This will give you a fine and smooth finish to help you get your helmet prepared for the next step. FYI DREMEL has numerous types of cutters and engraving bits, but the ones I mentioned are the ones I use. This is the tools that I use to get up close and personal to the marked lines. This drum is easy to control so make sure you take your time at lower speeds to ensure a nice and clean finished cut.
  

4. For the manual hand tools I use for the helmets.

• Hand Files, (http://www.homedepot...ts/N-5yc1vZc91p ) Small with the different shapes to get the angles and grooves in the eye, nose, visor, teeth and vent areas or openings you may want to saw/dremel/file through for ventilation and for a clean look.
  
• Xacto knife(s) (http://xacto.com/pro...olutions/knives ) and saw blades (http://xacto.com/pro...des/detail/X215 ), the , X-ACTO No. 15 key hole saw. is a great one to always have on hand.
  
• Sand paper 60 or 80, 120, 220, and for the finish 4000 grit, remember the higher the grit, the smoother the sanded surface.
  Steel wool (0000) I like this some people may not,
  Wet or Dry sand paper for (wet sanding) this is for the finish and finishing touches like weathering and scratching.
  
• Primers and Paints for this helmet we used the following in this order.
  

i. PCL Polyprimer 903 applied after the helmet was prepared properly.

ii. Pcl Polyprimer 905 buff this is a tan yellowish coat that came out perfectly as the base yellow / tan needed for the helmet

iii. FIRST WASH Createx Opaque yellow diluted in water about 90% warm water to 10% yellow (dabbed with dry towel so you don’t’ get any runs).

iv. SECOND WASH the Createx mixture ( abc def ghi…) 90% warm water to 10% paint also with dry towel to prevent paint from running

v. After each wash once dry apply Rustoleum Matte Clear between every wash. (it does take several hours to get the proper tones.

vi. And apply a last coat of the Matte Clear to encapsulate all your work before weathering.

• Bondo or some type of filler (http://www.autobodyt...CFdKGfgodLJsD6A )
  
• ca glue, I like this one (https://www.woodturn...Instant-CA-Glue ) with the accelerator (https://www.woodturn...NCF-Accelerator ).
  
• epoxies (http://www.homedepot...65736/202552251
  

[trooper1389]

Now to get started always begin with a good attitude, positive thinking and patience. And then patience I cannot say that patience will allow you to make this and any kit the best it can be.

 

For these steps I will have pictures posted with some extra detail information. Until then, you have a general idea to get started with what I have posted.

 

Day one

When you get the package at home, first off open it, I know the feeling lol. Once you are done drooling over the helmet or entire armor for that matter put it down.

 

Step One: Clean up and prepping the helmet and parts for primer.

 

· Sand it and wash it with soap and cold water, this will remove all the chemical residue and oils sprayed on the mold to release the helmet.

· Inspect the helmet and all the pieces it comes with. You will find some minor imperfections from the pulls, take a pencil and mark all over the helmet the areas you see that need special attention to if you don't find anything wrong, look it over again, on the large parts helmet, rub your finger and feel for bumps, dents and lines and mark them to make sure you pay special attention, may need filler or may need extra sanding etc…

· Mark down the areas around the eyes, neck and parts that you have to trim off and or vents that you want to open up.

 

 

· Now make all your rough cuts and then fine tune them with the sanding drums ½ or ¼ inch drums depending on the areas you need.

· Now fill in all the spots that need filler let dry completely and sand down to a smooth finish. Repeat until the helmet is perfect.

· Now get all the greemelies and make sure you sand and fill all the parts, here the small files will allow you to make sure any detail missing on the small parts are placed by using filler and some extra TLC. Some parts are small that the silicone is not enough to capture all the detail and it’s up to you to make sure you have it, unless you don’t’ want it lol.

· Now that all the parts small and large are completed and ready, before any primer or paint is applied, WASH it again, and let it dry again completely.

· Make sure its completely dry before applying any primers. I usually let the helmet sit for a couple of days after washing it in my case ill do this first step one weekend and put it aside until the next weekend, have work between weekends lol.

[trooper1389]

 

Step Two: Primers and Paints Preparing helmet for weathering.

 

· Lightly sand down all the parts that have been sitting from the cleanup and preparing process. Fresh sanding will always be better when applying primers and paints. Like noted earlier, we use PCL Polyprimer 903 applied after the helmet was prepared properly. This coat will provide you a durable surface to work with and once dry you can lightly sand to get ready for the second color coat. We are able to use these because Tim has a paint booth, these are professional primers and you will need a lot of ventilation if you are going to use them.

 

 

· If you don’t have access to ventilation or a booth, use regular Rustoleum gray or in this case dark gray primer (it’s almost like a black primer finish) apply several light coats this way you get an even coverage without build up, you don’t need to sand between coats as I wait about 10 minutes between coats, don’t worry about tiger stripes, as the rest of the coats will allow you to get a nice and even coverage throughout the helmet and parts.

 

 

· Second coat (Yellow / Tan base color, we use Pcl Polyprimer 905 buff this is a tan yellowish coat that came out perfectly as the base yellow / tan needed for the helmet

 

· Again if you don’t have access to these paints, use the Rustolium paints (I don’t know the names of these paints) once I have them I will update it here. And you apply this coat in the same way as the primer make sure you get nice and even coverage. I would apply a second coat after its complete dry after several hours or best the following day, make sure you lightly sand it so the second coat adheres to the first coat.

 

 

· For the next steps it should be the same regardless of what steps to paint the base helmet you used.

· FIRST WASH Createx Opaque yellow diluted in water about 90% warm water to 10% yellow (dabbed with dry towel so you don’t’ get any runs), repeat even dabbing coverage until you feel you have reached the color shade you feel happy or content with. Once it’s dry apply a coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear to seal the first wash.

· SECOND WASH use the Createx mixture ( Ill have to check what we mixed and post it up here at a later time lol…) 90% warm water to 10% paint also with dry towel to prevent paint from running and apply several layers until you reach the tone you are happy or desired. And once dry apply Rustoleum Matte Clear. FYI it does take several hours to get the proper tones and time allowed to let them dry between coats and clears. TAKE YOUR TIME!

· And last apply a last coat of the Matte Clear to encapsulate all your work before weathering.

 

 

[trooper1389]

Step Three: Weathering, Scratching, Chipping and Dusting.

 

here is a comparison picture, the one on the left is the Movie screen used helmet, the one on the right is mine, should have been used in the movie lmao.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Four: Ready for Action.

 

 

Thank you

Marcelo TK-1389

[trooper1389]

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here, updated the tutorial, posted some pictures will update it with more pictures, but i have the paints and primers we used to pain the helmet, the same ones we will use to paint the armor.

 

Please any constructive criticism is welcomed.

[Work]

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone here, updated the tutorial, posted some pictures will update it with more pictures, but i have the paints and primers we used to pain the helmet, the same ones we will use to paint the armor. Please any constructive criticism is welcomed.

 

Thanks for sharing your process. I think you have by far gotten the closest to accurate color that I have seen yet. You've managed to get that yellow tone that we've been missing. I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it, but I'd love to see your washing methods with the createx yellow (and please do update what the other colors you washed with were.) tested on the rustoleum ivory silk that many of us have been using as it's probably a bit easier for most to deal with.

[trooper1389]

 

 

Thanks for sharing your process. I think you have by far gotten the closest to accurate color that I have seen yet. You've managed to get that yellow tone that we've been missing. I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it, but I'd love to see your washing methods with the createx yellow (and please do update what the other colors you washed with were.) tested on the rustoleum ivory silk that many of us have been using as it's probably a bit easier for most to deal with.

 

Thank you 😊

I will been busy with work and the holidays but we'll work on it and get it all up ASAP.

Thank you.

[trooper1389]

sorry been busy working life sometimes gets in the way lol. we will work on another helmet and this time take pictures and videos of the process to finish up this tutorial, Slowly but we will get the tutorial done thanks