Cummerbund and Cod piece Tutorial

[Strider]

After having experimented a while to find the right proportions of the CB and cod piece I like to share my results and show the process.

 

The first thing was sourcing the right materials. I've tried out a variety of webbing and fleece materials and found the ones below most suitable (the actual fabric/type is unknown):

 

- White cotton Garbadine style 440g/m (may be heavier but shouldn't be much lighter)

- Volume fleece 200g/m (I used it for both although I think the cod piece had actual more "volume" than the CB)

- White foam rubber for the lower section of the cod piece

- 2 inch black elastic

- 2 inch white velcro (male/female)

 

To achieve screen accuracy I did the CB and the cod piece seperately (since it took me about 5 iterations of the cod piece to get it right it also saved me quite a bit of work ;-)

 

As this is something that has to be fitted individually there's really no use in creating a template. To get the measurements you basically measure your chest width and your waist (tapered fit) and then add some lenght for the seam overlap.

 

Here goes:

 

 

There are 6 seam lines (or 5 chambers on the CB spaced out by an inch each)

 

 

 

I've scaled up a picture of the cod piece from the Star Wars costumes book as a rough guide for a template (including seam overlap). Altough in the picture you can see the black 2 inch elastic is attached to the front of the CB I've decided to attach it to the back as it is not seen in the film.

 

 

 

 

 

Test fit and comparison (no weathering added yet).

 

Hope you like it!

[Retrofire]

Outstanding! Very awesome of you to put this together. Are there and specific measurements for the cod or is it something that has to be fitted to the individual?

[BikerScout007]

Very nice work, my man!

[Strider]

Outstanding! Very awesome of you to put this together. Are there and specific measurements for the cod or is it something that has to be fitted to the individual?

Very nice work, my man!

 

Thanks guys, glad you like it. The cod piece should be about 'one size fits all' give or take a bit to adjust it to the CB. Mine is 22x35 cm (measured at the widest points).

 

Cheers

[docraven]

Great work and sewing skills.

Thanks for the measurements!

[M.J]

Awesome!

 

Your photo looks really cool!

[Strider]

Awesome!

 

Your photo looks really cool!

 

Thanks, M.J. I'm still experimenting a bit with a slightly different layout, cut and materials trying to find a good compromise between accuracy and troopability. For example they've used materials inside the CB which are also used in hats to keep the brim stiff. The problem with that is that once you wash it it will shrink quite a bit so I'm trying to find a material that will accommodate both. Stay tuned

[Strider]

I've done some more experimenting to further improve the CB, cod piece and pouches. It's really incredible how much there is to learn from these simple pieces. These are the things I've changed:

 

- Layout of the CB: Small reduction of the width and the cut is now straight and not tapered

- Layout of the cod piece: A little wider and a more roundish shape (when sewing one usually tends to sew straight lines)

- Cod piece materials: Buckram to make it stiffer (I believe that was the material used in the movie as well) and foam to give it that puffy look. Also the cod piece is now attached on the top back of the CB

- Pouches made of off-white heavy canvas

 

 

 

 

I'm going to take this design to a sewer near by to see if it can be made at a fair price so I would be able to offer this to the community.

 

 

Cheers

[M.J]

Outstanding .....I'm so glad you placed the velcro on the top. I changed the size of the Velcro to one inch and not two, on the top. The thickness you could see.

With Buckram a little hint make sure you curve your edgers other wise it will cut through your fabric. My first one I noticed the sharpness of the edge, so after that I curved them. I didn't use foam, I used padding.. Let me know how you with the foam, I do like the sound of it.

Love this thread...though would love to know how you finished off your black elastic to your cod piece, looks very neat. I hand sewn mine, though I like yours.

[Strider]

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it now (after endless iterations...). The buckram was fairly easy. It's adhesive when ironed and I cut it to the same shape as the cod piece (minus 1cm seam line).

 

I used the sewing machine for the black elastic as well. Decided to attach it to the front as seen on the mannequinn in the star wars costumes book. The top end that is sewed to the cod piece is folded by some mm. I prefer using foam instead of padding for the cod piece as it it a bit stiffer than the CB.

[Stroker]

Excellent work brother!

[Bobik96]

That looks great. I like the strap on the outside too. How thick is the foam that you used?

[M.J]

Your Buckram is different to mine. I cannot iron mine though it is quite strong. I'm going to do one with foam see how it turns out

 

I do love your finish on the bottom of your cod piece.

 

I also didn't pad the attachment of cod piece all the way up, being a lady I didn't want any extra padding so I stopped the padding half an inch into the cummberbun. See if you can do the same or it might make the belly stick out. ( I don't want to post picks this is your thread so PM me)

Loving your work.

Though I did get another Buckram from a different store wasn't that strong though I thing I could iron it. I think Buckram comes in different mediums.

[Strider]

Thanks for all your feedback. The foam is 1cm thick, you can see it in the background of the picture along with the adhesive buckram I've used.

 

@MJ: I see your point but the only issue that could arise is that the edge where the padding stops pushes through the CB. At least that's what happened when I velcroed the cod piece at the back of the bottom of the CB. It's not a major thing though and if it works for you all is good.