bkrtr00per1 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Hey guys I have a few questions... I'm building SC armor and was wondering on exactly how to attach the tank to the back. I have seen many ways to attach it here in the forums but was wondering what is the correct way to attach it if I want to eventually join Lancers. I recently viewed Retrofire's way with installing a tab to back then riveting down the tank. I also recently saw Mustangman's build where he used industrial strength velcro inside tank and back to hold in place. I really like the velcro way personally. So guys please let me know your thoughts so I can complete my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 I have three scouts a SC and MC classic TB and a shadow. The SC I just glued the top of the tank with hot glue and a pop rivet in the bottom. MC I used the two screws with nuts so I can take it off when I store it and the shadow is velcroed through the back plate with a spent pop rivet. There's no wrong way as long as you have two pop rivets one on top and one on bottom. MC is a bit different the bottom it held on by a long screw because of the design of the tank and back. The screen used ones weren't actually riveted on. However I don't think I can talk about that right now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Just to be clear I used spent pop rivets where they should be used on the SC kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Hey guys I have a few questions... I'm building SC armor and was wondering on exactly how to attach the tank to the back. I have seen many ways to attach it here in the forums but was wondering what is the correct way to attach it if I want to eventually join Lancers. I recently viewed Retrofire's way with installing a tab to back then riveting down the tank. I also recently saw Mustangman's build where he used industrial strength velcro inside tank and back to hold in place. I really like the velcro way personally. So guys please let me know your thoughts so I can complete my build. Ralph, good question. Here's what the CRL states for Basic approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or weathered. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black.Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor. Top detail piece has a white painted circle and red line detail. The tank has a black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For Lancer the tank requirements are as follows: Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment rivet. I used the rivet method as that was the way I wanted to go but several have used the Velcro method and it's also great as well. The point is ensuring your tank sits "right" on the back of your armor. For Lancer it's important how the armor looks on you. I would go with the method you feel is best. You can always add a couple of "blind" rivets to meet the Lancer requirements after the tank is assembled. I hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkrtr00per1 Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks guys it really does help and I appreciate all the feedback. Ok so I think I know which way I'll proceed. Now Retrofire you state in the CRL basic approval, the tank topper is secured with a single metal rivet in center of the greeblie for it to be considered Lancer but can it still be glued down and riveted at the same time. And in your opinion, who's tank topper is more accurate SC's or DVH's? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks guys it really does help and I appreciate all the feedback. Ok so I think I know which way I'll proceed. Now Retrofire you state in the CRL basic approval, the tank topper is secured with a single metal rivet in center of the greeblie for it to be considered Lancer but can it still be glued down and riveted at the same time. And in your opinion, who's tank topper is more accurate SC's or DVH's? Yes as long as the rivet is present your good. Just don't make anything obvious. It's up to you how you wanna mount the tank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks guys it really does help and I appreciate all the feedback. Ok so I think I know which way I'll proceed. Now Retrofire you state in the CRL basic approval, the tank topper is secured with a single metal rivet in center of the greeblie for it to be considered Lancer but can it still be glued down and riveted at the same time. And in your opinion, who's tank topper is more accurate SC's or DVH's? The basic CRL doesn't define the rivet in the center of the tank topper but the Lancer spec does. All the Lancer's I've run across suggest building your basic as close to Lancer spec as you can as it's better to have it at that level than to have to go back and make it right after the fact. As far as your tank topper is concerned you will want to glue that down to make it as strong as possible. Pandatroopers build thread was the method I used to center and glue. After it dried I finished the painting and put the stripes on then I installed it to the back armor. You could probably do both at the same time just make sure that you use backing washers on the top and bottom of the rivet. This distributes the pressure so it's less likely to crack. Lou's (DVH) stuff is really well done and I would recommend him. I actually didn't end up using his topper as there was another trooper in need of one so I sent it off to him and I used the SC topper. I forgot to update my signature block so sorry for the confusion. I'm fine with the SC topper but I do have a DVH snout on my Altmann's and I have a blaster coming in from him so his stuff is top notch. Hope that helps you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkrtr00per1 Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Great yeah thanks! I too have an Altmann's, so far all I changed was the traps and nose bridge decals to Trooperbays decals... Should I also change the snout as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Great yeah thanks! I too have an Altmann's, so far all I changed was the traps and nose bridge decals to Trooperbays decals... Should I also change the snout as well? It's really up to you. I felt that Lou's snout was more accurate than the stock Altmann's based on screen shots and the MoM exhibit so I went with that one. I also changed out the traps and the nose bridge as you did and also replaced the hook with the TB one as it looked better to me and the original was dinged up a little. The galleries have some great reference pictures from both ROTJ and the MoM exhibit. If you get a chance check them out it's worth a visit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 I never went off the main 501st legion crl. The only thing I'm missing still is real suede. I stuck with the crl that easbhere. If you plan on going Lancer do it the first go dont be like me and have a simple piece of material from holding you back. I don't use the basic CRL at all for any of my builds any more. There's a bit of conflict between the main Legion CRL's and the detachments. It takes a bit to get all the updates to the main crl. Just keep a eye on your detachments crl. They are kept updated. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks for clarifing that Tim that's right on point! I keep to the CRLs here as well. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks for clarifing that Tim that's right on point! I keep to the CRLs here as well. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Brother your way better off to. When I built my snowy I checked the legion crl and then blizzard forces and wow they were a bit behind on the main board. There's always room for improvement and following the crl here is gonna get you where you wanna be. If I would have followed the snowy crl on the main board I would have gotten approved. You'll see the crl update on the main board it just takes time. Also I can't say it enough go Lancer out the gate! You'll thank me later don't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forest Ranger Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 When I was cleaning up my armor, I wanted my tank flushed really well to where it looked somewhat seamless against the back armor. I started sanding the curve down, and with the help of my dad (who's OCD like me, and a perfectionist), we were able to get it as close as possible to having no gap. The rivet at the bottom of mine is actually holding it on, and I ended up using a single piece of webbing with velcro glued on going through the top of the hump and inside on both pieces to keep the top pieces joined. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shada Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 I copied Mustangman's Velcro approach with the rivets merely decorative and it worked fine. Looks good, holds well and is removable if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 The movie tanks were designed to come off and were attached to the back piece with straps. I kinda like a crappy looking tank because it's more screen accurate! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 The movie tanks were designed to come off and were attached to the back piece with straps. I kinda like a crappy looking tank because it's more screen accurate! Mine resembles that...! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Look at these crappy tanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khazara Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I followed Pandatrooper's method and I love it. I'm sure that it's not going to separate, it's darn secure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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